Sounds like it should be safe enough to grind down then, but I'd let your missus know that she's responsible for cleaning up (that way you won't get in trouble when the fine dust kiboshes her favourite hoover. Trust me on this...)
2.9mtrs x 9mtrs your looking at 2.7 cubic metres of concrete maybe a bit more to laid. Hire a industrail vac, well worth it.
Yes I wouldn't be laying the new wooden floor for a month or so anyway Ha Ha...Ive got a screwfix list and one of those Titan hoovers is on it to help with the dust, aswel as polybacked dustsheets I am kinda siding with the grinding out however longwinded and messy, am I best going down 2-3 mm less than the 23 mm and this will be fine for the self levelling compound? Also KIAB mentioned the floor grinding machine which seems the way to go, or could it still be possible to hand grind a seriously large amount of strips at 25mm close together and then just chisel out?.....Don't laugh at that
A lot easier going up & down a floor with floor grinder, & easier on your knees... Never been able to get on with polybacked dust sheets, I prefer heavy plastic stapled to a piece of 2x1 or 2x2, then wrapped around it & held in place against ceiling with a couple of extension support rods, you for hold plasterboards sheets in place.
Am I correct in thinking there is a push along machine jobby like a lawnmower type affair, that will grind a slot out, sure I've seen one used by peeps doing roadworks etc, if so, can one set this for say 27-29mm depth, and in effect, as the Op suggests, 'score' loads of slots and then break them out?. I'm a building work novice, but if a machine is available that grinds the concrete down, surely that is a lot if grinding?, I've seen on sites where they use a machine for 'smoothing' laid tiles, but I'd assume that's just for final levelling and polishing-such as in supermarket floors etc. As stated, just a mere non building person, so please be gentle if I'm way off mark, and constructive criticism is welcome, not slating
Yes Chippie, but it's push along sorta height, not like a hand held thing where ya gonna have to bend over and crawl along the floor with it.
You're gonna have to forgive me if I'm being a bit thick, but if you make it all level, THEN put a flooring in the kitchen, the kitchen will be higher again. No? Mr. HandyAndy - Really
Ha ha, no Once the 23mm has been removed it then becomes level with the rest of the house at floor board level, I can just run the wooden floor right through then. Although I've just realised (dohhh) that I guess I'm going to have to plywood over the top of the concrete as I can't run wooden flooring and underlay directly over concrete can I? This would mean I would have to take more than 23/25 mm out to allow for the plywood thickness Edit, on a bit of research I can lay it on the concrete with certain adhesive's, not ideal but still a goer.
So I had a a quote of just over £500 for the machine to cut through the concrete and the guy explained abt the mess, a scrabbler was £200 but not 100% would do the job. Anyway for some reason the mrs all of a sudden said talk to me abt raising the floor, unbelievable after it being a no no So one of the major problems would be the front door frame (we had a new rockdoor fitted last year) from the floorboards in the hallway to the bottom of the door its abt 40mm........How the hell could I raise it the 23mm I need then put down 20mm solid oak flooring?......We have another door to the side which would have the same problem too Any ideas?
Actually mate we are looking at 14mm engineered now with 3-4 mm of real wood, this could get us some leeway on the height issue..