Hello! I'm a recently qualified electrician, and I want to start with some simple wiring, but I wanted to know before I get started - is it any different wiring an electric hob and an induction hob? Also, is it complicated?
Still uses live, neutral and earth, just that the supplying cables are larger for the increased load.
Depending on rating of hob, may well come fitted with a 5 core flex Has 2 live cores and 2 nuetrals, with the two ends crimped together with ferrules (leaving 1 earth) Connections are 'same as' (taking everything else into consideration of course) ?? That's what my Neff has anyway
TBH the question is pretty basic Hannah, so basic that i really doubt you're an electrician. As others have said the wiring is the same, but the supply cable may or may not be adequate. You are talking reasonably chunky currents here. Is it really worth diy'ing it when it's - hopefully - a quick job for a pro. (And if its not a quick job that'll be for a reason you'll want to sort out)
The induction hob does not waste heat so there is no need for it to use as much power as the earlier types of hob, however at least with early models it was seen as a selling point to have some silly heat area wattages allowing it to boil water as quick as an electric kettle, although with anything other than water in the pan using the boost feature would result in food burning onto the pan. It was also common to pair the heat areas and only one area of the pair could be used on boost at a time, so although you may have 4 x 3 kW total was only 6 kW because of the pairing. Latter hobs took advantage of not needing as much power to be able to work on a 13A supply, but either way it means really the induction hob use less power in service than other types because of the way it works, so as far as supply goes there is really no difference in an induction hob and any other, they can all have special functions allowing things like limited to 2.9 kW total or being supplied from a split phase supply. Although in the UK I know of no split phase supplies into a house, it seems in France and Spain you do get this system so some hobs are designed to take advantage of this type of supply. It does not really matter what the appliance is, they are supplied with instructions, these should explain what is required, it is some times so basic that we tend not to read them, and also some times they seem to be rather general rather than for the item supplied. I noted the inverter drive freezer I have still says "do not use on an extension lead." which since the inverter can well cope with volt drop is no longer a requirement. I know today the training has changed, my dad would complain how could I possibly learn it all in just 4 years? His day it was 5 years as an apprenticeship plus 2 years journeyman with 6 months in 4 other firms before you were considered a tradesman. However just pre-war when he started collage training was rather new, normally done as a night class, by my day we had day release and the collage took over what was taught as a journeyman. However we were not really trained at work with many firms, we were cheap labour, and just picked things up as weeks and years went by. Today to counter students staying is school longer we get the block release collage course, so even a shorter apprenticeship, I feel as my dad did with me too short, my own son was in his 40's before he finished schooling, and I was in my 60's before I finished, OK in both cases higher education, but really we never stop learning be it formal collage or university courses or IET lecturers, or a course on simply how to read a book. (17th Edition) However if a tradesman has to ask such a basic question then one must ask what has gone wrong.
Yeah I've not had much luck in the past, and like I said, I'm still new to it, so sorry if it seemed like such a basic (and possibly stupid) question That's why I was asking, as this is a community where it's safe to ask these types of questions - apparently not
I think it's generally one of the more friendly and helpful forums TBH. I guess the point is that it's better to be upfront about what you know and what you are planning to do. That way people can judge an appropriate level reply. But TBQH suggesting you are a electrician, but are unsure how to do this really doesn't ring true. You're kinda in "Electrics 101" territory. Replacing a hob is simple - IF you know what to do, look & check for. Nine times in ten It's just screwing the wires to the hob properly - but the tenth time..... There are DIY'ers I'd be happy to explain this to and others who wouldn't be safe. Sorry, but your intro post is such that I'm not really sure which one you are. Believe it or not I really don't want you to hurt yourself or your family. (I've seen some really dodgy DIY cooker/hob stuff in my time, badly routed and cooked cable, water leaks over a JB, overheating terminals, 40A MCBs on 2.5 etc etc)
I understand, I have to admit I'm recently qualified in the sense that I'm still learning but am close to finishing. I think I should just hire someone else to do it, probably safer
As you have not had much luck, this might brighten your day or not, but if you should switch on the induction hob and then lean on to it, and have had a stent fitted, this technology (oscillating frequencies might differ) could be used to heat up your stent https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/10029137 or if you have a pace maker fitted, be a swift method of exit. https://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/ar...dy-induction-cooking-hobs-stop-pacemaker.html At the very least, it could be a new one on a coroner!
Hannah: can i possibly ask you some questions about wire colours and connections inside an electrical hob please