Ba***dising a larder unit for double oven - Retrofit

Discussion in 'Kitchen Fitters' Talk' started by stickgal, Nov 26, 2014.

  1. stickgal

    stickgal New Member

    Hi all you lovely Forumites - here's a challenge...,

    I am trying to convert a 600mm larder unit into an double oven housing. I 'think' I have the correct cavity size: width seems correct but depth, once the backing is removed, is a mere 560mm. The appliance mins are 550mm. Is this fine to fit with only 10mm from the brick wall that remains?

    Also, I will need to retrofit a shelf to support the 49kg of the appliance. I can't get access to the outside of the unit to use cams, and so will have to support the shelf from inside the unit. Any potential problems you can see that I've missed? I was thinking of bolts thro the carcass of this unit & the next unit along the run.

    Finally, if I was buying a new unit, I would be supplied with a shelf pack for the oven. Can anyone tell me the depth of a standard oven support shelf, as I want to make sure Im not restricting any ventilation, but also that it will do the job!: (49kg on my toe wont be funny!!)

    I'm thinking about using ply, not mdf, as I think it should be a bit stronger.........

    Thank you all...
    Let me know if you think Im nuts, please!! :confused:
     
  2. Hi stickgal.

    No, not nuts at all. In fact the only difference betwixt a 600mm larder unit and t'oven equivalent is the positioning of the shelves. And the lack of back panel. And the vent holes/slot cut in the plinth below.

    560mm depth is pretty standard (within a few mm), so that shouldn't be a problem. See where the back panel was - there should be a groove down the sides to hold it? Well, don't allow your support shelf (or any other horizontal panel) to go past that line. That will leave a ~70mm gap behind the unit for a good flow of air to come in via the plinth slot/vent and out t'top of the unit. (You will need to either drill a neat series of large holes along the plinth near its top, or else use a jig-saw to remove a slot along the top of the plinth - whichever is the easier.)

    The remaining cupboard sections of the 'oven housing' should have their back panels reinstated - stops carp falling down on to the oven...

    To support the oven, most manufacturers get away with only one standard 18mm chipboard shelf, supported by rails wot are screwed on to the unit sides. This will actually be enough because - when you look at it - the oven will be supported mainly on its own sides as it sits on that shelf, and not in the shelf middle -so it shouldn't sag.

    But, you do need strong rails which go from the front of the unit's edge, right back to at least the grooves, tho' they can go right back too.

    To fix these rails (often made from the same material as the unit carcase - ie 18mm thick melamine-faced chipboard), use wood/chipboard screws that will go at least 20-25mm into the unit's sides. (So the screws themselves will need to be about 40+mm long).

    These screws will go right through the unit's sides, and partly into the sides of the neighbouring units - but not right through them! Use 4 or 5 screws on each rail. Drill 'clearance' holes in the rails (around 3-4mm dia) and 'pilot' holes into the sides (2mm dia drill bit) (Don't go right through... :rolleyes: )

    Jobbie jobbed.

    HOWEVER, I wouldn't start measuring where this support shelf goes until you find matching doors that'll fill the gaps above and below on that unit! There should be doors available for this - ovens are made in standard heights to suit - but the oven has to be positioned spot-on; 5mm either up or down will mean a scraping door, or mismatched gaps.

    (Your oven should come with all the dimensions you need. If you don;t have the instructions, look on0line for that model.)

    Enjoy :)
     
    stickgal likes this.
  3. stickgal

    stickgal New Member

    Awww Thank you!!!!
    I simply didnt know if I was trying to be a bodger or not!!!
    I totally agree with you for putting back panel down to stop bits falling down t'back, and I guessed that I needed to scribe some air holes on t'top of 'lid' and a vent into plinth, but youve confirmed what I simply 'guessed;

    The shelf will be ply, but 18mm, (apparently Wickes use standard 22mm melly when constructing their display units) and it will be covered by the appliance so not ugly.


    Shelf its self (!) will now be accounting said air gap and so I will not put it the full depth of the 550mm, but 500 instead.



    The shelf support rails Ive fashioned are 18mm x 95mm but not melly, cos TBH it always splits on me!!

    Thank you for the fixing measurements, as I really didnt know if I would weaken summit if I went in heavy handed.

    Doors......Ive looked into a standard 600mm f'top cavity, & 600mm butler sink door f'bottom. That way I got bout 20mm wiggle room & these doors can be off the shelf.
    Thank you for taking the time to give me such a comprehensive answer, with valid reasoning behind your thinking; Y'know what its like when you wanna ask, 'do you think....' but there's no one to ask....:D:D
     
  4. You'd almost think I was a teechur in a past life... :oops:

    Good luck. Lots of 'chippy' coves on here willing to help if you need more info.

    (Have a look at your kitchen unit range - there should be quite a few door sizes available; ~740mm ('full-height'), ~600mm tall, ~300mm tall etc, and then you also have drawer fronts at around ~150 high. You might wish to have your oven set higher than in t'middle of t'unit for comfort and safety, say with chust a wee 300mm door above, and then a taller one under.)
     
    stickgal likes this.

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