Help..oil based undercoat...water based satin

Discussion in 'Painters' Talk' started by Lorna Andrew, Dec 2, 2014.

  1. Lorna Andrew

    Lorna Andrew New Member

    Having painted all my hall doors with an oil based undercoat, I've stupidly just realised that the satinwood finish paint I bought is water based and does not stick to the undercoat. What you recommend I do? Can I get oil based satin wood or should I sand back the base coat and try a water based base coat. Thanks
     
  2. supertosh

    supertosh Member

    I often use an oil based undercoat before applying a water based finish coat. Personally, i don't like water based Satinwood, much rather use oil for a better quality/smoother finish, just my preference.

    It wont hurt to apply the water-based Satinwood over oil based undercoat.
     
  3. Lorna, what do you mean by "it doesn't stick"? If it's just that the top coat looks as tho' it's going on 'thinner' than you expect, with brush marks almost allowing the undercoat to show through, then this could just be a 'feature' of water-based paints. It's gonna need at least two coats...

    But, if it's clear that the top coat ain't adhering - beading or separating into lines, or whatever, then there is something weird going on.

    Anyways, solutions. Yes, you can get oil-based satinwood (or eggshell) and you'll also find it more durable. However, if the colour you want is brilliant white, then you can expect it to lose a bit of the 'brilliant' after a few months...

    If it's a coloured satinwood, then perhaps an oil-based one is the simplest option here.

    Or, you could use a universal primer over the oil-based undercoat, perhaps even stuff like Zinsser BIB (or whatever it's called...). These will cover just about any surface, and allow just about anything to be coated over it.
     
  4. Lorna Andrew

    Lorna Andrew New Member

    Thanks guys. I cant get the top coat to adhere, it is just beading and separating as if there is some sort of a reaction going on. It is just a white satin wood finish I was after. Will try some oil based paint I think and see how it goes.
     
  5. Blimey.

    When did you apply the undercoat? Perhaps it ain't fully dry?
     
  6. supertosh

    supertosh Member

    Beading and Separating - Sissing? Doors sometimes do sis mainly becasue of furniture polish over-spray. Furniture polish can sometimes be a nightmare to kill even with an oil based UC. Before painting were the doors wiped with a degreaser or a turps/white spirits damp cloth?

    Oil base is the way forward for a much smoother, richer finish.
     
  7. Lorna Andrew

    Lorna Andrew New Member

    Doors were thick with dark varnish. Scraped down, sanded and cleaned before 2 coats of undercoat applied. 1st coat of undercoat on for 5 days before second applied 3/4 days ago so so think it would be dry. Didn't really think when bought the water based satin wood. Though been reading the oil stuff tends to yellow more, 8 doors and no natural light in our hall :(
     
  8. Lorna Andrew

    Lorna Andrew New Member

    Haven't sanded or cleaned the doors since putting undercoat on, should I do this?
     
  9. It's all a bit weird, Lorna. The undercoat must surely be dry by now, and it shouldn't require any further preparation for adhesion (tho' always good to de-nib the surface to remove any specs of stuck dust, etc.)

    You have two options, I guess. One is to use an oil-based top coat, but it will almost certainly 'yellow' since the surfaces ain't in bright daylight.

    T'other is to use a water-based universal primer over the current undercoat and then go on to use the water-based satinwood you were planning.

    By all means go over the current finish lightly with - ooh - 300 grit paper, wipe down with a clean damp cloth, allow to dry and try your WB primer on one side of one door!

    See how that goes.
     
    Lorna Andrew likes this.
  10. supertosh

    supertosh Member

    If the doors were dark varnish they will soon bleed dark if a good quality primer wasn't used before undercoating. 2 coats of UC isnt enough to stop the white from darkening very quickly. Zinner bin is about the only primer i know that will kill the dark varnish.
     
    Lorna Andrew likes this.
  11. Lorna Andrew

    Lorna Andrew New Member

    Thanks for all your advice guys. The oil based top coat has gone on fine tonight and looking good so will just continue with that atm. Will need to wait and see how it goes with yellowing, will keep in mind the Zinner Bin for future. :)
     

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