Mixer Shower plate in shallow wall cavity

Discussion in 'Plumbers' Talk' started by IIABDFI, Oct 8, 2015.

  1. IIABDFI

    IIABDFI Member

    The previous mixer has failed and was a cheap and nasty thing anyway so I am replacing it with a thermostatically controlled unit... The old unit was installed (not my me) hanging on the end of two copper pipes onto which were compression fittings which attached to the (non-thermostatic) mixer...

    To provide support to the new heavier mixer bar I need to attach fittings onto the tiles (but due to positioning this doesn't work as the fittings would have to drill through a line of narrow decorative glass tiles); the previous positioning managed to squeak the 15mm pipes out by grinding the edge of the glass tiles).

    I therefore propose to move the shower pipes down slightly onto the normal ceramic tile below where I can attach more sensibly.

    I took off the tile below (quite a large tile) and have access to behind and find the copper pipes running up the wall before a pair of 90 degree elbows and then out into the room. Ideally I would like to secure the top of the pipes with a concealed plate incorporating the 90 degree bends but the depth is only 42mm from the back wall to the front tile surface. (The distance from the front of the elbow, where the pipes come out horizontally, is far less)

    Is there a shower plate that would fit in 42mm or do I need to follow a similar procedure to before and surface mount to the tile surface (although a bit lower)?

    Thanks in advance
     
  2. sospan

    sospan Screwfix Select

    Wouldn't have a picture to help us to help you ?
     
  3. IIABDFI

    IIABDFI Member

    Good idea. I'll take one and attach.
     
  4. CGN

    CGN Screwfix Select

    I use these a lot.

    http://m.screwfix.com/p/bristan-bar...Product%20Listing%20Ads-_-Sales%20Tracking-_-
    sales%2520tracking%2520url&cm_mmc=Google-_-Shopping%2520-%2520Bathrooms-_-Shopping%2520-%2520Bathrooms&gclid=CJHy8dPns8gCFQsHwwodOSUPfQ&kpid=13771

    Very easy to use and makes fitting a doddle. I throw the unions that come with bar mixers away...waste of time.
    The beauty once fitted, is that you can have the mixer on and off in 5 mins once fitted. There are other mounts, but these are a good balance in aesthetics and practicality IMO. You can get square ones too.

    I put ply behind the plaster board if a stud wall. Makes for a good solid mount and great to get a fixing in to.
     
    FatHands and IIABDFI like this.
  5. IIABDFI

    IIABDFI Member

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  6. IIABDFI

    IIABDFI Member

    I plan to replace the two glass strips (they have two holes from a failed previous attempt). There was plasterboard behind the tile but that was unstable after hacking the main tile off. I plan to move the outlets down a bit onto the main tile and then have a place to attach that isn't either in the glass or in the grout line. I'll put a couple of batterns in the gap, screw on a plasterboard insert to match the hole and then tile on top.

    This seemed like a good opportunity to attach directly to the rear wall with a concealed fixing plate but I don't think the depth is there.
     
  7. IIABDFI

    IIABDFI Member

    Ah that looks interesting. Does it not have screws at all? Is that OK for holding the mixer bar just on the pipes? (Would certainly overcome the depth issues)
     
  8. CGN

    CGN Screwfix Select

    Take a look at the different pics on the link. The main bracket slides over the pipe and is screwed to the wall. You then put on an olive then tighten down the threaded nut to get a water tight seal on your pipe. Chrome cover goes on then just screw your mixer on. The mounts are solidly fixed to the wall so don't rely on the pipes to hold the mixer in place. That is one of the main reasons why I use them and chuck the supplied fixings with most mixers. Makes maintenance a doddle :)
     
    IIABDFI likes this.
  9. CGN

    CGN Screwfix Select

    Btw, I would unscrew that metal strapping, and put some insulation tape around the pipes then refit. Not good to have it in direct contact to the copper. Make sure they're not too tight as well, you need a bit of jiggle to help get your 150mm centres.
     
    IIABDFI likes this.
  10. IIABDFI

    IIABDFI Member

    Ah... looking closer I now see two screws on each. The illustration actually has the screws going into the gap/grout between the tiles. I have a bit of a problem since something isn't quite square... if I draw a line through the centres of the pipe it goes into the blue tile on the left (which was ground down by the previous installer to fit the pipe in), so the pipe on the left is slightly higher than the one on the right. I was planning to redo the elbows and move both outlets down. (I do need to work out what is square... the pipes or the tiles)
    What do you think? Aim for the screws in the gap between tiles or place them down a bit onto the next tile?
     
  11. CGN

    CGN Screwfix Select

    Hopefully your tiles are pretty level, in wich case I'd level your pipes. Decide where your elbows need to come out height wise, take into account the extra bit of pipe inside the elbow and using your level, mark pipes where you need to cut them.

    If you can get the pipes to coincide with a grout line, then you'll just need to notch out the tile, if not, you'll need to drill tile to allow pipes through.I suppose it all depends on what tiling tools etc you have to hand. You can get an adjustable cutter for a few quid from most DIY shops to allow you to drill large holes. Reg holes for brackets, them most ceramic tiles are easy enough to drill through with a masonary bit if careful. Use a small pilot drill first, but don't use hammer action and then drill to size. You can probably get a long screw right through into the brick work. I always get my pipes in, make good and retile, then dry fit brackets and screw on mixer to make sure everything lines up. Then Ill drill holes for bracets.

    That's why you want a bit of jiggle, but also double check you've got 150 centres before tiling, so you have got a few mm tolerance when the tiles go on. Use at least a 20mm hole around pipes. You can silicon the gaps around the pipes whilst fitting your brackets. Its easy enough after you've done it for the first time ;)
     
    IIABDFI likes this.
  12. IIABDFI

    IIABDFI Member

    Thanks so much for spending the time to answer. Now I just need to get it done. Thanks!
     
  13. CGN

    CGN Screwfix Select

    No probs...glad to help. Any more questions just ask. I've actually got a weekend off for once, but I might stop by!
    Now just do it...you'll be fine :cool:
     

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
    Dismiss Notice