Hi. My new but annoying shed has proved shockingly leaky. The roof and through the walls. I'll deal with walls later but the roof has been covered in thin felt (prob half the problem). I have new better felt to apply. Should I remove all things felt and chuck? Or should I apply new felt over the top? (Easier and I'm guessing a bit insulation?). A good plan ..... or will it cause problems? (My new felt is not torch on or the underlay stuff it's just ordinary). Also.... out of curiosity... why don't people use flooring vynil (like in the kitchen) on the roof) ? Thanks for any advice. L
Hi, I just had my Shed/Workshop recovered 3/4 weeks ago after putting a complete new roof on it. Its 10 foot square near enough. I paid £300 to have it done by a "roofer" . What a joke to advertise as one. In 2 days rain poured in, I contacted him immediately. No reply. Time and again Emails/phone calls. He never returned. It was covered in GECO Torch down ...I got on the roof and saw the problem it was not sticking to the new timber at all. And holes were visible. I purchased a roll of GECO 8 metres and £28.00. I cut out the faulty areas and some had not been " touched at all" it just lifted off my new roof as it had come off the roll. A standard gas gun was enough for me to repair it. It really is easy to use. If its large areas you will need a bigger heat source though. Maybe worth a try rather than some thin stuff on it again. Johnny M
GRP roofing, can't beat it, easy to repair if ever damaged, had my workshop done nearly seven years ago, still perfect, not a single leak. I have no faith in EPM roofing, know several peeps who have it & had it & it's leaking only after a few months.
Hi, I don't understand the GRP...EPM terms I admit. I just left it to the guy that advertised as a roofer and I employed at £300. I had no reason to distrust the guys experience. But no sign of him in 3 weeks to sort up my leak. But now I have repaired it I feel I have as much experience as him now. I am water tight and have circa 6 metres of GECO left for future repairs. I was plumber for 15 years ( 55 years ago) I could of done a good job in copper or lead on it lol. I did approach a number of roofing company's to cover my 10x10 foot hut. Not one wanted the job, To small I suppose ,not enough profit So there must be more work around than we are made to believe. Prior to me deciding to replace all the roofing timbers ( 35 years old ) One sent me a quote, to leave existing old material in place. NAIL a covering over it. NO warranty for high winds was outlined. Quote was for £465.00 This is a pic of some of the GECO I stripped off the roof to get to the new timber. Nice new 18mm ply It looks like there has been no torching in these areas ROOFER my A** Take care Johnny M
As I assume you do not understand any aspect of DIY, I would like to inform you that your product is not suitable for a shed roof. I personally prefer to use this product when sealing a shed roof: http://www.spam-uk.com/
Shed thread.... great! I have a shed dilemma if anyone wants to suggest anything. Shed is enormous - at least 9 metres x 3 metres and walls about 2 metres high with a pitched roof. All wood. The problem is that the floor (a 2x2" framework covered with t&g flooring) has just been placed straight on to a concrete slab. As the concrete slab is larger than the floor panels, I believe rain water settling on the slab can be sucked (capillary effect) or blown by the wind under the floor panel where over years it will cause damp rot and destroy the 2x2" frame at least. I'm open to hearing possible solutions that do not involve dismantling the shed and relocating it please?
You need to raise shed off the concrete base, a few inches would be enough, shed here is sat on plastic fence posts, as they don't rot, soak up moisture,etc, it doesn't take long for wood to rot, if it's continully damp. Could easily lift that shed one side at a time with high lift jacks (can be hired) & slip some bearers underneath.
I was thinking about getting a large Stihl saw and hacking off the protruding edge of the concrete slab. Then nailing a skirting piece around the perimeter.
Ain't going to stop moisture coming up through the concrete & rotting floor bearers. Ideally floor needs to be raised to allow air flow to keep everything dry.
And a linky: https://www.selcobw.com/info/cure-it-grp-roofing/ That seems pretty good, long warrenty, don't think I would tackle it myself though, not enough experience laying it, a lot to go wrong & costly if you c0ck up.
Yes, I was thinking about that. Slab is over 200mm thick though? I think the slab is going to get it in anycase as I will reclaim around 0.5m of garden on each side of the shed, but I may have to get something plastic in under as well. Do you think those jacks would lift the whole shed 4-5 inches? I'm worried they would only lift around the edges but the middle of the floor wouldn't elevate? It's at least 3 metres wide.
Those jacks can lift nearly three tonnes, you would be lifting on the shed wall bottom stud,so floor should be ok (need to check which way floor joist s run). But, you might find it easier using 10 ton bottle jacks, as it's only 5".
I did a walk-in shower using a system from Nicholls & Clarke a few years back and it was tight as drum and dry as a bone, so I'd trust the process. The shower was similar in that your applied a membrane, used resin to fit some reinforced fibre matting in the stress areas and then gave the whole area a couple of top coats before laying the tiles. With the shed, the top coat is the final finish. Haven't looked at the costs - if it's too expensive I'll be back to the felt!!
I can see that working and something plastic being necessary to safeguard the structure for the long term. It'd be worth it as the shed is actually pretty good nick otherwise. I'm praying the original bearers aren't already shot. I estimate the shed has been sitting like that at least 5 years but I don't know for sure, as we just moved in.
Yeah, but your going to the right way re the weight. That shed is probably not far off 3 tonne so I'm going to need a lot of jacks. 8 at least. It would have been nice if the slab base was tanked (haven't checked yet but I guess it hasn't) because I could have tanked the freshly cut edges of the slab and been ok re damp proofing.