Shed roof dilemma....

Discussion in 'Landscaping and Outdoors' started by Westforester, Aug 9, 2016.

  1. Westforester

    Westforester Member

    Hi.
    My new but annoying shed has proved shockingly leaky. The roof and through the walls.

    I'll deal with walls later but the roof has been covered in thin felt (prob half the problem). I have new better felt to apply. Should I remove all things felt and chuck? Or should I apply new felt over the top? (Easier and I'm guessing a bit insulation?).

    A good plan ..... or will it cause problems? (My new felt is not torch on or the underlay stuff it's just ordinary).



    Also.... out of curiosity... why don't people use flooring vynil (like in the kitchen) on the roof) ?

    Thanks for any advice. L
     
  2. JOMEL

    JOMEL Screwfix Select

    Hi,

    I just had my Shed/Workshop recovered 3/4 weeks ago after putting a complete new roof on it.
    Its 10 foot square near enough.
    I paid £300 to have it done by a "roofer" . What a joke to advertise as one.
    In 2 days rain poured in, I contacted him immediately. No reply.
    Time and again Emails/phone calls.
    He never returned.
    It was covered in GECO Torch down ...I got on the roof and saw the problem it was not
    sticking to the new timber at all. And holes were visible.
    I purchased a roll of GECO 8 metres and £28.00.
    I cut out the faulty areas and some had not been " touched at all" it just lifted off my new roof as it
    had come off the roll.
    A standard gas gun was enough for me to repair it. It really is easy to use.
    If its large areas you will need a bigger heat source though.
    Maybe worth a try rather than some thin stuff on it again.

    Johnny M
     
  3. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    GRP roofing, can't beat it, easy to repair if ever damaged, had my workshop done nearly seven years ago, still perfect, not a single leak.:)
    I have no faith in EPM roofing, know several peeps who have it & had it & it's leaking only after a few months.
     
  4. JOMEL

    JOMEL Screwfix Select

    rsz_20160803_175854.jpg Hi,

    I don't understand the GRP...EPM terms I admit.
    I just left it to the guy that advertised as a roofer and I employed at £300.
    I had no reason to distrust the guys experience.
    But no sign of him in 3 weeks to sort up my leak.

    But now I have repaired it I feel I have as much experience as him now.
    I am water tight and have circa 6 metres of GECO left for future repairs.
    I was plumber for 15 years ( 55 years ago) I could of done a good job in
    copper or lead on it lol.

    I did approach a number of roofing company's to cover my 10x10 foot hut.
    Not one wanted the job, To small I suppose ,not enough profit
    So there must be more work around than we are made to believe.

    Prior to me deciding to replace all the roofing timbers ( 35 years old )
    One sent me a quote, to leave existing old material in place.
    NAIL a covering over it. NO warranty for high winds was outlined.
    Quote was for £465.00

    This is a pic of some of the GECO I stripped off the roof to get to the new timber. Nice new 18mm ply
    It looks like there has been no torching in these areas
    ROOFER my A**

    Take care
    Johnny M
     
  5. Joe95

    Joe95 Screwfix Select

    As I assume you do not understand any aspect of DIY, I would like to inform you that your product is not suitable for a shed roof. I personally prefer to use this product when sealing a shed roof:
    http://www.spam-uk.com/
     
  6. Shed thread.... great!

    I have a shed dilemma if anyone wants to suggest anything.

    Shed is enormous - at least 9 metres x 3 metres and walls about 2 metres high with a pitched roof. All wood.

    The problem is that the floor (a 2x2" framework covered with t&g flooring) has just been placed straight on to a concrete slab. As the concrete slab is larger than the floor panels, I believe rain water settling on the slab can be sucked (capillary effect) or blown by the wind under the floor panel where over years it will cause damp rot and destroy the 2x2" frame at least.

    I'm open to hearing possible solutions that do not involve dismantling the shed and relocating it please?
     
  7. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    You need to raise shed off the concrete base, a few inches would be enough, shed here is sat on plastic fence posts, as they don't rot, soak up moisture,etc, it doesn't take long for wood to rot, if it's continully damp.

    Could easily lift that shed one side at a time with high lift jacks (can be hired) & slip some bearers underneath.

    upload_2017-3-9_11-26-2.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Mar 9, 2017
  8. I was thinking about getting a large Stihl saw and hacking off the protruding edge of the concrete slab. Then nailing a skirting piece around the perimeter.

    upload_2017-3-9_11-40-37.png
     

    Attached Files:

  9. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    Ain't going to stop moisture coming up through the concrete & rotting floor bearers.
    Ideally floor needs to be raised to allow air flow to keep everything dry.
     
  10. I see Selco are pushing this GRP 'Cure It' system - seems OK and looks robust stuff.
     
  11. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

  12. Yes, I was thinking about that. Slab is over 200mm thick though?

    I think the slab is going to get it in anycase as I will reclaim around 0.5m of garden on each side of the shed, but I may have to get something plastic in under as well.

    Do you think those jacks would lift the whole shed 4-5 inches? I'm worried they would only lift around the edges but the middle of the floor wouldn't elevate? It's at least 3 metres wide.
     
  13. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    Those jacks can lift nearly three tonnes, you would be lifting on the shed wall bottom stud,so floor should be ok (need to check which way floor joist s run).

    But, you might find it easier using 10 ton bottle jacks, as it's only 5".
     
    Last edited: Mar 9, 2017
  14. I did a walk-in shower using a system from Nicholls & Clarke a few years back and it was tight as drum and dry as a bone, so I'd trust the process. The shower was similar in that your applied a membrane, used resin to fit some reinforced fibre matting in the stress areas and then gave the whole area a couple of top coats before laying the tiles. With the shed, the top coat is the final finish.

    Haven't looked at the costs - if it's too expensive I'll be back to the felt!!
     
  15. I can see that working and something plastic being necessary to safeguard the structure for the long term. It'd be worth it as the shed is actually pretty good nick otherwise.

    I'm praying the original bearers aren't already shot. I estimate the shed has been sitting like that at least 5 years but I don't know for sure, as we just moved in.
     
  16. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    Being an idiot,disregard bottle jacks, your on slab.:rolleyes::oops:
     
  17. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    Ditch the felt idea, once you use grp roof, it won't need doing again for 30 years or longer.
     
  18. Yeah, but your going to the right way re the weight. That shed is probably not far off 3 tonne so I'm going to need a lot of jacks. 8 at least.

    It would have been nice if the slab base was tanked (haven't checked yet but I guess it hasn't) because I could have tanked the freshly cut edges of the slab and been ok re damp proofing.

    upload_2017-3-9_12-52-54.png
     
  19. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    Post photo of shed, presume shed is full.
     
  20. Its not too full. It could be cleaned out in an hour or so
    Presentation1.jpg
     

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