Does anyone know anything about cookers?

Discussion in 'Electricians' Talk' started by Robdog, Oct 24, 2016.

  1. Robdog

    Robdog Member

    Hey [​IMG]

    I have a Bush AE56DW cooker that's around 2-3 years old. I noticed though yesterday that my main bottom fan oven is not working, i can turn the fan on but when i turn the temp nob the thermostat light does not come on, the oven does not heat up and i'm pretty sure there was a light on in the oven also which now does not come on.

    After a bit of research i thought maybe the element had gone but would this also explain the thermostat and oven lights not working? The top oven still works fine and thermostat light is working on that, grill is fine and the top electric rings are all working ok.

    I'm low on cash so want to have a go at fixing it myself. Is there anyway I can test to find out which part is not working?
     
  2. Pollowick

    Pollowick Screwfix Select

    Does it have a rotary type on/off switch with several stops? If so try turning it round several times in each direction, reasonably fast.

    I have a cooker which has a similar problem and doing that seems to resolve it for a while
     
  3. Robdog

    Robdog Member



    The fan function has a rotary switch with a few options, i.e fan and heat, just fan, heat no fan but that's working fine. The oven temperature is set by another rotary switch which obviously sets temp plus usually lights the thermostat light.

    The problem seems to be with this switch as the fans come on but when I try and set temp no thermostat light comes on and no heat in the oven.
     
  4. koolpc

    koolpc Super Member

    Buy a camp stove and start saving!
     
  5. Mr Rusty

    Mr Rusty Screwfix Select

    It is likely to be one of three things - the thermostat, selector switch or the element which are all in series. The simplest test is to unplug/isolate/disconnect the cooker and get to the element connections. Disconnect them and stick a multimeter across the element. There will be a resistance, but there should be continuity. If it is open circuit there will be no reading at all - element gone. If the element shows continuity it will be either the selector switch or the thermostat. With a multimeter you should be able to check if there is continuity through the selector switch to the thermostat when it is in correct position. If there is, then it's the stat. If there isn't its the switch. I see this Bush has separate selctor switch and thermostat knobs.
     
    Last edited: Oct 24, 2016
  6. seneca

    seneca Screwfix Select

    There might be a heat operated cut-out fuse in circuit too, they are quite common, they are often contained in a short length of insulating sleeving. Their purpose is to cut the power in event of a serious overheat but they often fail for no apparent reason.
     
  7. Robdog

    Robdog Member

    Thanks. Yes there are separate knobs, one to select which fan/oven option you want then another to set temp of oven and this is when thermostat light comes on.

    The fan knob seems to be working fine but the temp/thermostat knob is the one im having problems with. No light comes on an no heat either. I think a light inside the oven used to come on also which now is not working either.
     
  8. Mr Rusty

    Mr Rusty Screwfix Select

    Only you know if you feel confident enough to take it apart and trace the fault. It's a fairly simple circuit, so a basic meter is all that should be needed. Just make sure it's all off/isolated before you open it up. Safety first!
     
    Robdog likes this.
  9. Mr. Handyandy

    Mr. Handyandy Screwfix Select

    Yes. Test the element first. There will most likely be no continuity(and infinite resistance obviously).

    Mr. HandyAndy - Really
     
    Robdog likes this.
  10. Robdog

    Robdog Member

    If it was the element would this also account for the thermostat light not coming on?
     
  11. Robdog

    Robdog Member


    Thanks, is there a way I can test for this?
     
  12. fire

    fire Well-Known Member

    Sounds like the thermostat. Only way of testing it is to have a multimeter with continuity test function and dis-assemble the affected circuit and test to see if the thermostat is stuck open or not, test and check that the control knob actually makes connection when you turn it etc.

    All these are DEAD tests, that means disconnected from the mains completely.
     
  13. Robdog

    Robdog Member

    IMG_0681.JPG Hey guys it been a few weeks but my mate finally came round with his multimeter to t at my cooker. To be honest neither of us had much of a clue what we were doing. Firstly he took the back off and after finding the element at the top of the oven we figured out that's this was it on the back. He disconnected the 2 grey connectors from it and put the meter on. He said it had continuity and gave him an ohms reading whatever that means so I'm guessing it to not that.
     
  14. Robdog

    Robdog Member

    Next we took the top off, firstly here is a picture of the front so you know what we are looking at, next picture will be the view from th inside. I know the 2 big reddish parts are selector switches, the one on the far right with the little white box on it is for the top oven which is the far left nob on the front picture, this is fine as all is working.

    The left selector switch is for the centre nob which controls the fans, the fans are also working fine but my mate said it may control something else, he did not know how to test this though so if anyone has any advice I'd appreciate it.
     

    Attached Files:

  15. Robdog

    Robdog Member

    IMG_0682.JPG Finally the small white box next to the left selector switch is for the right of the right nob which controls temp so I'm guessing this box is the thermostat. With the switch turned off he said it was open circuit, with it turned on he said there was continuity and 2.4 ohms. Not sure what this means about it being on as there was no power going to the cooker but thought I'd say what he said.

    After he tested this he then thought the thermostat would also be in the main oven so took the back off again and we think this may be it in the picture but he was not sure. He did test that though and said it was an open circuit with no continuity, not 100 % sure it's the right thing though, dos anyone know?

    Sorry for the 3 lengthy posts but we are a bit stuck as to what we need to do now.

    If anyone can explain how we would test the selector switch that would be great and also if anyone can tell us if that small white box at the back of the bottom oven is the thermostat that would also be a help, we can do double check everything again then.
     
  16. Tricky Dicky

    Tricky Dicky Screwfix Select

    Looks more like the oven light, rather than the oven thermostat. Lack of continuity - more likely to be a blown bulb in the housing.
     
  17. That third control along, the one with the 'thermometer', does it go 'click' when you turn it? If so, at what temp (I know it's cold...)?

    From the parts list below (and others), it looks as tho' this oven has only 'flat' heating elements, one in the top (also acts as grill) and one in the bottom? Ie - it doesn't have the more usual circular oven element that surrounds the actual fan blades?

    How many ovens in the cooker?


    http://www.partmaster.co.uk/bush/co...fine=thermostat&path=592111&model_ref=8611907
     
  18. Robdog

    Robdog Member


    Hi, yes it clicks when I turn it on, it clicks right after I turn it, about half way to reaching the 50 mark.

    There are 2 ovens, top oven and rings on top are working fine. The nob that turns the fan on is working fine, it's just the third nob along that does not now work. As I say it clicks but no light comes on nor do I get any heat in the oven just the fan.

    I really could do with diagnosing what's wrong with it first as I although not mega money I have not to the cash to buy parts I might not need. I have found a cheap website for parts too which is a bonus.
     
  19. That sounds ok, then - that's where it should click when cold.

    Ok, the back of that third knob - see your pic in post #14 - it looks like a white ceramic block and has a couple of wires coming from it - one blue and one grey?

    If there are only two wires, then test the continuity across them as you 'click' that knob up and down. It should be nigh-on zero ohms when you click up and open circuit when down.

    If that control seems ok, then the chances are it'll be a fault in the other knob - that oven's selector, the second one across. You could try spraying the contacts with WD40 whilst rapidly turning it through rotations.

    Or the other possibility is that there is a safety overheat 'stat that's gone open circuit. I don't know where this will be, tho', so you'd have to trace wires going around to the sides of the oven or possibly it's on the back. It will have two wires going to it - have a look and see if there's anything like that.

    See the element you are pointing to in post #13? That looks like the one for the TOP oven (or have you turned the whole oven upside down?!) And your issue is with the bottom oven - can you look for a similar element further down?
     
  20. Robdog

    Robdog Member



    Do you mean the white block on its own behind the temp nob, with pic of thermometer by it? We tested that and when clicked on it was like 2.4 ohms I think if I recall. There's another white block fixed to the back of the selector switch for the top oven which we did not check as all is ok with that, it's identical to the other white block so I'm guessing they are thermostats?

    I'm unsure what you mean about this WD40 and spraying it on?

    Also I'm 99% sure that element if for the bottom oven as to gain access to the top oven you have to remove a different back plate from the rear of the unit. I can double check but we did try and make sure.

    I'll try and take some more detailed pics of the back and maybe you could see if there is a overheat thing there.

    Problem is neither my mate nor I have a clue what we are doing. It may be better to maybe try and see if I can get a professional to just diagnose the problem and then see if we can fit the part, just depends how pricey it will be though.
     

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