Hi all Is it possible for anyone to explain me the 1st fix ..wiring (1.5) the spotlights/downlights? Bathroom already has a ceiling rose/pendant and pull cord installed.
Err, Do these downlights replace the existing pendant? If so, you need to reconnect the pendant light wiring into a JB in the loft (assuming its on the top floor) and then run the cables to the locations of the downlights. What does 1.5 mean?
Knew you knew really Baz ! Bit worrying really all this DIY leccie work going on, seems like loads of question recently asking fairly basic stuff No testing carried out but guess you flick the switch and if lights come on, then all good innit - simples
Unfortunately 99% of households are like this imho and experience, I get called out to a fault, and sort it, but find no earth's connected, etc etc, as you say, the lights or whatever work, but the installation is electrically unsafe, and affords no protection in the event of a fault. Joe public are blinkered, as long as a light comes on when the switch is turned on, then, heh, it's all good as far as they're concerned
Always been the same Joe public have no respect for electricity as they do gas, rewires and electrical refurb is always last on peoples lists they either don't bother or will do themselves, gas décor and other stuff before electrics
well i saw some work done by a spark that shocked me (as i think it is wrong but i maybe wrong ok so plastic lightswitch in dryline box (also plastic) run in two double insulated singles but no earth (and its a one way light switch) is this wrong? And its a wall switch
I agree with you Tina, I am sure your work is done to very high standards and meets regs. As does mine. DIY can do just as good a job on electrical work, and sparks can do shoddy work too. The problem lies in that DIY has more shoddy work. Just because you have no formal training or expensive testers, does not mean you cannot do a good job. However, I do agree with Sparkylev, Rulland and Dave, that without the knowledge to do electrical work, you cannot guarantee the safety of an installation. I always use my Fluke multi-meter to test wiring continuity and resistance, and albeit not a low resistance tester, I can make sure the values are in a region of what they should be. I've learnt a lot more from Baz and JP on here, and it gives me more confidence in my understanding. And to add, I'll be doing the wiring in my kitchen extension, and re-wiring downstairs this year. All tested and connected by BC. Regards the spotlights, I would suggest the Surewire boxes for termination.
True and also the amount of gas work!. Have a look at the recent forum headings the number of requests for help with c/h boilers and regulars on this forum are suggesting that the public remove the cover of their boiler and start tinkering about. W There is a general tendency on this forum to dive in and try and help rather than stepping back and thinking is this person purely asking for advice or want to do something themselves that is potentially dangerous. There have only been a few occasions, where people have said "no, go and seek a qualified person".
Yes it is wrong, there should be an earthing conductor there even though it's not going to be used, it will be needed in the future if metal switch is fitted.
have always felt 1.5mm was the best size for lighting circuits and as for making things trickier hardly i have done a surface mount clip direct twin switch in 1.5mm in a 16mm box with little issue
no therefore i see no point in using 1mm where 1.5mm allows for extra lights to be added with out needing to upgrade a full lighting circuit as some penny pincher did it all in 1mm
You crazy lady. Most domestic lighting circuits are on a 6amp CPD which is PLENTY. So 1mm is all you need. Plus The rapid increase in LED and other low energy lighting means that loads for lighting are reducing, not increasing. In the last 15 years I have never had to upgrade an existing domestic lighting circuit. Have you? Why?