110 mm solvent bend instead of push-fit

I'm going to have a 110 mm soil pipe emerge from a wall within a kitchen roof cavity (indicated in green in image), this then emerges from kitchen roof and connects to external stack.


I presume there's any point in having an access port on the 92.5 degree bend (indicated by red arrow) since there's no hatch in the kitchen ceiling to access it. The branch section at the stack will have an access port in any case, so I hope this would be sufficient.

I had intended to use a push-fit single socket bend at this point (pic A below), however after learning on the forum recently that weld-fit fittings are best to use in concealed areas instead of push-fit fittings, I'm not thinking it would be best to use a solvent-weld bend instead (pic B below). Pic B shows a double socket bend since I think it would have to be this to weld at both ends of the bend.

I'd appreciate any comments on this, in that, if you think this is the correct way to go. Thanks!

A)

http://tinyurl.com/yaastlbz


B)

 

It's not a photo of the actual house, just a photo I grabbed from the 'net and sketched on to illustrate what I mean.

 

Can you elaborate on this as I'd be interested to learn precisely what you mean? Which aspect requires amendment?

 

I should add, the plan would be that there would be an angled lead slate at the point where the soil emerges from the kitchen roof.

One other way to deal with the soil pipe issue, would be to run the soil pipe (in green) along the inside of the exterior wall.

This would be about 4 bricks down from the underside of the window. So as not to have the soil pipe take up footspace in the tiny bathroom, perhaps it would be possible to cut a track of about 7cm deep into two rows of 11.5cm thick bricks of the internal wall of the cavity wall, then set the pipe into this track.

This cutting back of the brick plus extra depth of wall plaster plus depth of thick skirting board would allow the soil pipe to sit within the wall track and be flush where it meets the skirting board.

As shown in green the pipe would travel from the right of the internal wall to about halfway under the window, where it could emerge through the wall and away from the kitchen roof extension. Since 7cm of the thickness of two rows of bricks under the window would have to be chiseled away, perhaps a load supporting beam would have to be placed above these two rows (meaning a row would have to come out) in order to support the window?

I don't know if this is necessarily easier than the lead slate method? Any comments welcome!

 

The only existing drain gully is at the end of the kitchen extension.

This would mean the soil pipe which emerges within the kitchen roofspace would have to travel the length of the kitchen (within it's roof cavity) and emerge from the kitchen wall where a new stack could potentially be located beside the existing drain. This is shown by the yellow pathway below.

 

Unfortunately not, instead perpendicular.

 

I believe these are the documents you are referring to:
https://www.gov.uk/government/collections/approved-documents

Could you indicate which section I should be referring to, as, from your first post, you appear to be aware of some issue which I am not aware of?

 

Given that you appeared to suggest you were aware of an issue, it would have been helpful if you could point out specifically which area I should be looking at. That is, given the number of potential areas you potentially could be referring to. Of course it's your prerogative if you prefer not to.

The building/roofing company, presumably, will be aware of any such issues in any case, so it will be interesting to learn what they have to say.

 

Thanks Pollowick.

I had considered something like that, but, considering the pipe run which it would result in, I'd be concerned that it would result in blockages.

Yes, that's what I am concerned about. Having had a think about things I think what I'll have done is just get them to remove the thick skirting board along the wall under the window to give an extra couple of cms. Then just run the soil pipe along the wall within the bathroom - this run will be just over a metre or so, then out the wall at the current point and avoiding having to bring the pipe out into the kitchen roof.

It'll just mean that the 110mm diameter soil pipe, running along under the window, will protrude into the tiny bathroom about 7.5cm. I think it's probably the best compromise, and I won't have to wonder about how well the joint at the roof was sealed.