6" duct in solid 9" party wall - to remove or not?

Discussion in 'Builders' Talk' started by kelsta, Feb 13, 2017.

  1. kelsta

    kelsta New Member

    Hi all. I'm looking for a bit of advice from the experts round here about the best way to deal with this rather unusual bit of duct running up in our party wall.

    When we bought our house it had a redundant old blown air heating system with a boiler in the loft and galvanised steel ducts running to vents all round the house. We've been stripping out the galvanised steel ductwork, most of which is now gone.

    The main bit which is now left is this duct shown in the photos. It runs up the party wall all the way from 1 brick below the DPC under the lounge floor, up to just above the ceiling joists in the loft, where it then ran across to a boiler.

    It seems a hell of a big bit of ductwork to be running up that wall. The steel itself is about 6" deep, and as best I can tell the wall is solid 9". This house and the one next door used to be owned by relatives - which might help explain any party wall issues there would've been with putting it in there in the first place.

    I'm not overly concerned with it from a structural point of view - it seems to have been in there happily for over 40 years. Also, I had a structural engineer come take a look at an unrelated problem with the chimney breasts in the loft. Although the front view of the duct wasn't visible at the time because the plasterboard hadn't come down in the lounge, he saw where the top of the duct emerges up in the loft and didn't seem too concerned about it running down through that wall from a structural perspective.

    So I'm wondering what the best thing to do with what's left would be - if not for structural reasons, possibly to help with the sound insulation from next door - it seems like there's not nearly as much wall there as there ought to be.

    Not sure what the options might be, but these have crossed my mind:
    • Easiest would seem to be to leave it alone, plasterboard back over the top and never think about it again. I'm just thinking that maybe there's something better we should do while we have the chance.
    • Take it out and get someone to brick up that section? Is that possible?
    • Take it out and fill the void with something else. Maybe even just some sound insulation slabs would be better than nothing?
    • Seal the bottom and fill the duct in place with something with enough density to put some mass back into the wall? Concrete maybe?
    Having asked around how common blown air heating systems were in residential properties it seems like this might be a little bit on the unusual side, so any advice very much appreciated!

    wall2-small.jpg wall1-small.jpg
     
  2. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    A bit naff doing that,if possisble I would remove it, & rebuild the missing section of wall to restore it's rigidity.

    You also have the risk of your nieghbour coming through if they do any work on opposite side, that wall would orginally have been two course side by side,so around 100mm or so, your presently have 50mm plus or minus a few millimetres of brickwork.
     
  3. Pollowick

    Pollowick Screwfix Select

    Take it out and brick to fill in - tie those in to the existing too.

    If you need sound insulation then fill in between the studwork - it will take out quite a bit.

    And take care will the cables and copper water pipe located each side of the ducting..
     
  4. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    Wall looks in a poor in places, top of wall right of duct & far right in photo.
     
  5. Jitender

    Jitender Screwfix Select

    The first house I had, air ducting was installed which had been decommissioned previously think when house were built people had the choice of either 'dry' or 'wet' central heating. But dose look like your hose was built before installation.

    A lot of the rooms had 9x9" holes in them which weren't filled in correctly, so had to make good by taking out the wooden linings and plaster. The hole was filled in using 50mm wide blocks then plastered over.
     
  6. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    You can get 50mm Thermalite blocks, but it's easier to repair that wall with brick.
     
  7. Jitender

    Jitender Screwfix Select

    Bricking up would be best option which could take some time to tooth in to existing walls.

    May be a good idea to go around next door and conduct inspection of their wall prior to works.

    Hard to tell from photos but may have been a chimney breast there which would explain some broken header bricks further to the right and the black soot on the bricks.

    Not sue how deep the duct goes down, but a concrete lintel may be required to provide a base.
     
  8. sospan

    sospan Screwfix Select

    Agree with Kiab, there are as many concerns with the state of the wall as with the vent. There are a number of voids, lose bricks and the amount of packers under the battens show how uneven the wall is. I would remove the wall battens and spend some time repointing the wall and filling the voids with bricks and pieces of stone.

    In the second picture it looks like you have damp at the foot of the wall. I would get this checked before you do a lot more remedial work

    The ducting is held in place by metal staples, If these are difficult to remove, cut them with an angle grinder and then grind them flat. I wouldn't go bashing them too much. If you have to cut the staples paint the ends with something like Hammerite.

    Once the flue is removed, fill with bricks/blocks and then get the whole thin rendered / plastered to help tie it all together.
     
  9. What to do? Not worry about it too much for starters - it's been there 40 years, so that wall ain't coming down any time soon.

    But... I'd personally feel uneasy about chust leaving it in there. A bit of a cop-out, and you could improve both noise and possibly heat insulation by replacing it with something more suitable.

    But I wouldn't go 'stupid' on this.

    Personally, I'd remove the ducting, angle-grinding the 'staples' as Sos says, and then fit a batten of some sort across at floor level to act as a temp support for full-sized thermolite blocks dead light and easy to use. At a guess, full-sized (8x4xwhat?) blocks would fit in there quite nicely, standing on their ends.

    Tooth them in? Yer 'avin' a laff.

    Chust dampen the surrounding bricks so's they don't suck too much, butter the backs of the therm blocks (dampen them first too...) and tap them into place. Fill the side gaps with mortar/bits of block - depending on gap size - and roughly level orf.

    Then stick another block, on end, on top.

    Jobbie jobbed. And it doesn't have to be anything like flush with the bricks.

    When you consider that you could chust leave that ducting in place almost certainly with no consequence, to do anything more than simple therm blocking this is nuts in my view. But it should help with sound insul, and therm blocks seem like probably the best way to me.
     
  10. kelsta

    kelsta New Member

    Thanks for all the advice guys. Seems pretty unanimous that I should do it properly and rebuild with brick. Suspect I knew that in my heart of hearts, but wanted to check to make sure I'm not making work for myself unnecessarily. At least I have some ammo to justify the time and cost to my wife now :)

    Thanks also for the extra pointers about the general wall condition, damp, etc. Guess I should've put a few more details in the original post but didn't want to make it too long!

    Pollowick - the 15mm copper on the right was the gas supply to the boiler for the system, so that'll be coming out with the duct. The cabling is live though, so good advice to take care with that. Hoping to avoid getting fried!

    Jitender - you're right, there was originally a chimney breast here, which accounts for the broken header bricks - and I assume also the general poor condition of the wall and unevenness you mention Sospan & Kiab. I've already repointed and re-set the loose bricks where the breasts have come out upstairs, which was in a similar condition. Am planning on doing the same here. 6:1:1 soft:cement:lime sound right for this?

    Sospan - yes, definitely problems with damp down there, but I'm hoping now fixed. When we opened up the floor to get at the ductwork we discovered that a load of the plaster and rubble from the chimney removal had been dumped down there (have attached a photo of that mess!). It was filled all the way up to the joists and wicking up moisture to them. That's all been dug out and cleaned now. The ducting was also filling most of the void below the joists, blocking airflow, but it's all come out now. Plus the air bricks have been cleaned up to make sure there's decent flow through them. Hopefully the floor will be a lot happier than before.

    Ta for the advice about angle grinding the staples - I'd not thought as far ahead as to the detail of them it out. Might try to see if they'll come out whole easily first, but that sounds like a good call if they won't.

    Hoping not to need a lintel down the bottom Jitender. There's a couple of courses of brick left above the slab level, then a gap of one course to where the slate DPC runs, and a bit more space under the duct. Imagine I could build straight back onto what's there, putting in a new DPC after that first brick, then build up on top of that and it'll all get loaded onto the original footing.

    Toothing in the new brickwork sounds like it could be pretty hard. Although if it's necessary/better then maybe worthwhile. Any alternatives that might be quicker? The edges will be too rough to use anything like a wall starter, but I was thinking maybe some sort of wall ties epoxy bonded into the brickwork down each side maybe?

    filled-floor.jpg
     
  11. kelsta

    kelsta New Member

    Ah, cheers Devils advocate. Doing exactly what your name suggests and making it not quite unanimous :)

    Still sounds like removing it and rebuilding would be the best option. Maybe just a bit of debate about the details of how exactly.
     
  12. Pollowick

    Pollowick Screwfix Select

    The wiring to that socket needs sorting too!

    One thought about the "channel". Do you plan to have a wired network in the house? If so, that may give you a good route to run cables from ground floor to first - use thermalite blocks and then cut a suitable channel in them and install trunking.


    And as suggested before - go and check the other side. Take some pictures for reference and ask the neighbours to come and see what you are doing.
     
    Last edited: Feb 14, 2017
  13. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    Stick to rebuilding/repairing with brick, a lot easier, & easier to tie in, no need to cut channel for trunking, just use oval conduit & oval clips & surface mount, even channeling could be surface mounted, if their going to a stud wall in front.
     
  14. sospan

    sospan Screwfix Select

    Wow that was some mess under there!

    Looks like they dumped it under there to support the joists - did you need any restructuring once it was removed ?

    Whilst the floor is open, I would give it a good spray with timber treatment to prevent rot and woodworm. Also worth thinking about some insulation under the boards, it will make a lot of difference.
     
  15. Blimey - they've filled the void so much the joists are sitting in it!

    As said above, take care of these cables - but that's as easy as slipping a flexible conduit over them.

    Yes, filling in that duct void makes sense. It doesn't make sense to tooth in the bricks (if you use bricks). That wall is not holding the house up to any degree that would benefit from that degree of work.

    If this were my house, I would use lightweight insulated blocks - thermalites. Why? Because nothing more is needed. And all you'll need is a timber batten to hold the bottom one up until the mortar sets. And the are easy to handle - you can saw them if needed.

    That wall hasn't fallen in 40 years - it ain't going to do so now.

    By all means repoint any loose bricks - that's sensible. You could do this as easily as making up a sloppy mortar mix and chust towelling it on like render, but no need to be careful! Just wipe it over and it'll fill the mortar lines as you go.

    You will almost certainly need to wet the bricks first, tho', 'cos I bet they are well sucky (yes, that's the correct term...)

    Sprinkle some water on them and see how quicky it's soaked in.
     
  16. kelsta

    kelsta New Member

    Yeah, was a bit of a shock to find what was down there when I lifted those boards. I didn't expect it to be nice and clean, but wasn't expecting to be digging out all that junk! Looking much better down there now though. Have just taken these shots of it now. Still seems to be quite damp around the bottom of the sleeper walls, but I'm hoping that's being drawn out of the bricks below the DPC and will dry up given a bit of time.

    Good advice about checking the neighbours side Pollowick. Need to remember to do that before I go poking at it. Thankfully we get on well so it shouldn't be a problem and I'll let them know what I'm doing before starting.

    No structural work done yet Sospan, but I'm going to replace a few of the joists - there's a few there which have started to rot on the bottom. Luckily it's short ones only spanning the width of the fireplace so hopefully it'll be straightforward. Doesn't look like the stuff was thrown down there to support the joists, laziness seems more likely.

    Will probably put some sort of conduit in there for network etc. Reckon you're right KIAB that it'll fit in nicely somewhere behind some studs for plasterboard, rather than channeling up through the brick/block itself.

    Bricks are definitely 'sucky' DA :) I've been using a spray bottle to get them good and wet when I've been pointing and fixing up the walls elsewhere.

    Going to be doing the insulation too. Was half considering it before discovering the mess down there. Now I've had to lift the whole floor just to sort it out it's made the decision for me. Also going to be doing IWI on the wall around the bay as all the plaster on that was blown so has had to come down. At the risk of sparking a whole other debate about how to do it...I'm planning to do 75mm celotex between the floor joists held up by some battens, PU foam round the edges to seal. For the wall, parge coat to seal and level it, 50mm celotex onto that, then 25mm battens on the warm side and 25mm celotex fill between them.

    I'm hoping that plan sounds sensible as I've done a bunch of reading of insulation posts on here. Not had to post many questions myself as so many of them have already been asked by other people. Have done a hell of a lot of reading of that other stuff though, so thanks to you all for the advice you post on here, it's bloody amazing!

    damp-round-sleepers.jpg floor-level.jpg full-room.jpg
     
  17. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    Now that's a lot cleaner, with air vent/bricks front & back of house clear & allowing good air flow, it will soon dry out any damp.
    And drown all the timber in preservative, 'Everbuild Lumberjack Triple Action Wood Treatment' from TS is very good.

    http://www.everbuild.co.uk/Triple-Action-Wood-Treatment
     
    Last edited: Feb 15, 2017
  18. sospan

    sospan Screwfix Select

    At the end of day, its all down to "peace of mind". It will be a nice feeling in a few months time that everything is sorted and there shouldn't be any nasty surprises or regrets of "I wish i had done this ... when I had the chance"
     
  19. Pollowick

    Pollowick Screwfix Select

    Do it as 2x40 or 30 + 40 of Celotex. Cut the first just under so it drops in, then a small wedge piece to force it one way. Drop second layer above and a small wedge piece to push it the other way. It is a lot easier than trying to cut very accurately and you will still have near full fill.
     
  20. kelsta

    kelsta New Member

    Took me a couple of reads to visualise what you mean there Pollowick, but sounds like a good method now I've got my head round it. Ta.

    Cheers for all your advice guys. Now just to crack on with getting it done...
     

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