Turned on 'hot tap and nowt came oot but cold. Went to the boiler and it's having a heart attack - fan is cycling up and down about once a second, display & green light flashing off and on (showing 8.8bar when on) in time with the fan. Turned off DHW and CH controls on the boiler, no difference. Turned off main boiler control and it went off. Waited a bit, turned the mains back on and it went immediately into the cycling again. Turned it off again. And on - cycling. Turned it off again. And on - and it's dead... Nothing. I'll be checking the fuse in a mo', but I doubt that went 'cos it would have had to have gone when the power was off. And anyways, there wasn't a 'pop'. Does the cycling system suggest anything? Ta much.
Hi Tom. It's now deader than a dead thing. Can't remember if there were sparks when it was doing it's cycling bit - too many flashing lights and woooo-wooos going on Checked the fuse - ok - had a fondle of the PCB - nowt - so no other symptoms except it's dead. DEAD I tell you... Anyways, I phoned the GlowWorm cove who replaced my exchanger a couple of years ago, and he reckoned the PCB had gone. Suggested I phone up GlowWorm and book their one-off repair jobbies, which I've done. Sigh... Ta
I had a strange job this week, a bloke phoned me asked me to fit a new boiler, he said someone had recommended me, so ok I went round, the boilers only two years old but not a really good one, a B+Q special biasi. He was't interested in repairing it but he seen a main 24 on ebay for £498 inc flue and clock, but he can't get a plumber to fit it because its non condencing, anyrode, I can't say on here whether i fitted it or not, but during the conversation his wife told me they'd had 4 new boilers in the last 6 years, I could't get my head round why he just chucks them out, some still in warrantee, So when I checked the meter,(which he did't want me looking at) but i had to insist as to do a tightness test, there was no meter I explained that, thats probly the reason the boilers burn out, there's no regulator to govern the pressure, but it works out cheaper for him to buy new cheap boilers every couple of years, the gas board don't know he's using gas, he's never had a meter fitted, of course I did't fit the boiler, or did I?
Tomp. couldn't you have fitted a meter for him. C/W regulator? I'm sure you can buy meters etc here in the UK. Surely much cheaper to have this done than keep buying a new boiler every few years ?
I have just decided I didn't read your post tom, you didn't even see it did you or you would be reporting him wouldn't you????
John. I don't know, I've never wanted one before, but I suspect some of the meter fitters will have a couple in their garages that fell of the back off their vans, dev's of course I would't do such a thing,
I know of a house locally that was never 'officially' connected to the water main....twenty odd years after the builder built it its still not part of Wessex Waters network
I knew a old chap here in Derby who paid a standing charge for gas, for years. He didn't even have a meter. Twas only when his wife passed away he found out. She'd dealt with all the bills and had just paid it, without question when it arrived.
I have a Glow Worm 30CXi and it was dead when be bought the house. We were quoted £300 to replace the printed circuit board. Being an electronic engineer, I wasn't about to pay that without looking at it first, so this is what I found: Symptom - Dead, no display and a faint ticking sound when the power is turned on or takes a long time to power up from cold. Fuse F100 is intact. The switch mode power supply (adjacent to the fuse) is not starting up. This is caused by a faulty electrolytic capacitor C805 situated at the bottom of the PCB near to the fuse. This is a 47uF @ 50v. Be sure to obtain a 105 degree type, not a cheaper 85 degree as this will provide a much longer service life. A suitable type is available from RS components (www.rswww.com) part number 520-1567 priced £1.50 for a pack of 5! It may also be worth replacing C813 100uf @ 25v on the power supply secondary at the same time. This is situated at the bottom of the PCB to the left of the small transformer. A suitable type is 519-4150 from RS priced at £1.00 per pack of 5. Remember to isolate the boiler mains supply before touching the PCB as it is very, very live!!! Hopefully this will save people some money :0)
Hi Thanks for the information I will check this out next time I come across this problem Regards Peter
^ I have this issue with a 30sxi. It was dead when we moved in on Sat, a had a poke about (jiggled some wires) and managed to get it "on" but only to see the green flashing light and an 8.8 reading on the display. I'm not an electric engineer but about to pay a call-out charge to probably be quoted something similar for a job I might be able to do myself..? I'm not sure where to find the F100 fuse to gauge whether it's intact? Is this something I can realistically do without damaging the boiler or myself?!
As predicted, the boiler serviceman's here and saying the whole PCB needs replacing. The F100 fuse is indeed intact. I asked him if he couldn't just change the electrolytic capacitor C805 to see if that was the issue and he says no, he doesn't know how to do that, he just always replaces the whole thing... Frustrating, to say the least.
It is perfectly understandable that a GasSafe ain't going to mess with electronics unless they chust happen to be that way inclined. Could you have done this yourself? Yes, if you are competent with a soldering iron. That's all it needed, along with carefully noting where each board connector goes! (although it should be easy enough to work out even if you had forgotten). There's a good market in refurbished PCBs - it is almost always the same few components (usually capacitors) wot fail. Exchange PCBs can be had for around £50 upwards.
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