Actuator or end switch fault? ... Heating only comes on when another Zone is on.

Hi Guys

Long while since I've been here, but need a bit of expert advice.

I have three Honeywell motorised valves - two port V4043H 1056 in an S Plan system.
The problem I have is that the main zone will only heat up if one of the other zones is on. When this first happened a few weeks back (fairly intermittent then), I thought it might be a faulty room stat so replaced it. Made no difference!
Now I'm thinking it might be either the synchron motor in the valve, or the end switch. Would be easy enough to change the motor, but not sure about the end switch?

Is this a clue? The manual lever is totally free when the zone is calling for heat, even though the heat won't come on till another zone calls for heat. And when the 'problem' zone is NOT calling for heat (or is in the OFF position) the manual lever is free just part way, as normal. So it seems no contact is being made with the end switch?

Any advice will be very much appreciated. Thanks guys

 

Thank you Mike83. I think I'll try a new actuator first. I have a spare which I kept from my old house a few years back - not sure if it is compatible though - it has stamped on its case "Honeywell F5-9311" and looks the same - but is it? Would you know? I believe it's a genuine Honeywell as it has blue wires. Thanks for your help.

 

Thanks for your response heatyman. So it seems what I suspected could be right. I'll try replacing the actuator. Cheers!

 

Thanks for the advice Devil's Advocate, that's very helpful. As I replied to leesparkykent, if it is the end switch that's gone I'm wondering how easy it is to replace as I've never changed one before. Any advice you can give on that would be much appreciated.

 

Thanks DA. The vids were amongst the best I've seen. I've bookmarked them on Youtube so I can refer to them again.

First, I haven't yet done the tests - want to be sure I'm doing it right as I don't want to risk being without any CH.... Also I have to confess that I might have been using the wrong terminology - I've been referring to the synchron motor as the actuator (been watching too many vids on Youtube which caused confusion!)..... i.e. When I was saying I'd try a new actuator first, I meant the synchron motor...... Please correct me if I'm wrong, but as I understand it now, the 'actuator' refers to the complete zone valve?? I hope I haven't caused confusion myself to you guys. Really sorry if I have.

Anyway, when I've done the test you suggest, I'll come back and let you know how I get on...... And I'll be sure to isolate the CH system from the consumer unit first. Thank you again for your valuable advice

 

OK DA, tried the last test as you suggested - and hit the valve (assuming you weren't joking).That didn't do anything. Next took cover off after killing the power to do the continuity test, but couldn't see how I could get to the end of the wires to microswitch without removing the the whole motorhead. Looks easy enough to do, but didn't want to take it off, find it's OK but then couldn't put it back properly! - And consequently be without heating in that main zone. I'm pretty sure I'll be capable of changing the whole thing, but might be better to wait till spring when heating not required..... As it is at the moment, I do need the second zone heated, so at least the main (problem) zone will heat when that comes on. Just inconvenient as they aren't normally on the same time.
Also, when we don't need the heating on, I could try taking the motor head off one of the other zones and trying it on the problem zone. If it works, then that should confirm the problem valve is faulty. Am I right thinking that?

Still might be worth my while trying a new synchro motor first. I have a spare one (from my old house) but not sure if it's compatible. It looks the same, and has "Honeywell F5-9311" stamped on its face, which means nothing to me: tried Googling it, but no joy!..... I can always pick one up from Screwfix - probably handy to have a spare anyway.

I'm very grateful for the help you've given me, especially for the time you give up to help people like me!..... I will report back when I eventually get it sorted. So thank you

 

Thanks for that advice leesparky. Guess I should have thought of that. I probably won't do that yet as it would mean killing the power again, and another problem....see below.

Another problem I found out yesterday, is that the battery in the Horstman programmer (H37XL) seems to have expired (installed 11 or 12 years ago). So when I kill the power, it doesn't 'remember' the settings, meaning I have to reset it and do all the programming again for three zones. To make it worse, the installer positioned it in a place where it's awkward to get at and see what your doing. I had to do this yesterday and almost lost the will to live!! Much swearing to let off steam, kept me sane!!....Anyway, it looks like new programmer required, as battery apparently not replaceable (ridiculous)...... So now with two things possibly needing replacing, I think it best to wait till the warmer days when heating not required, and deal with everything in my own time.
Meanwhile, I'll print out all these posts for reference in case I forget something.

Thanks again for your help lsk - you guys on here are brilliant .

 

Thank you for getting back to me DA. I see what you mean about the motor - makes sense!
My son is here at the moment, so was able to try the other 'listening' test you suggested. First trying it with the working valve to see what it should sound like; and the whirring and click were easily audible. Then did same with problem valve and he could only hear a very faint, steady noise (not a whirring sound) and no click heard.
The strange thing is that when heat is called for, the manual lever is loose and has full and travel (which suggests the valve is open) - and when not calling for heat the lever can only move about half the way (which suggests closed). So, as you say, it appears the valve is opening and closing, but is not making the connection with the micro switch. Hmmmm!.....

Anyway, as I replied to leesparky, it now appears that I also need a new programmer (battery died - not replaceable). So turning off the power to do tests or replace bits, means having to re program the programmer each time - which is a pain in the butt to do for three zones, specially as it's very awkward to get at. So I think definitely best to do the lot come Spring once we don't need heating on. Seems pretty straight foward to replace these things, and I'll be able to take my time then. I have a healthy respect for electricity - so always take photos of connections etc, and make diagrams to follow if needed when I'm working.

Thanks a lot for all your help - very much appreciated