A length of 15mm bent at 90 degrees. On one end a compression straight fitting (minus nut/olive on non connected end), on the other end of pipe a 15mm - 22mm reducer. Take out bleed cap/blanking plug and connect pipe using commpression fitting (this can be done by removing compression fitting from pipe, screwing into rad where plug was, then reconnecting pipe) You now have a ready made filling pipe. This way can be used for all types of system as long as it has the 22mm plugs fitted and you drain the rad in which you are putting it.
Or use a funnel with a flexible tube. Can also by inhibitor in 'mastic' style tubes. If magnaclean is fitted makes a very handy dosing point.
kimble, that is by far the best suggestion I have seen in a long time. It is also so simple I cannot believe I had not thought of it - even as a complete novice. There are millions of threads on the internet with advice for adding inhibitor. Not one is clean, and most are fairly complex. Thanks a million.
Oh, and its also the cheapest suggestion I have seen too (assuming you have pipe and fittings around.)
Usually drain the smallest rad, take it off the wall and pour the crud into it at the valve entry point. Turn it over, thumbs on valve tails and slip it back in. Don't forget to shake it (the inhibitor) before you pour it.
If you have an heated towel rail, you can do it from there. Is this a new system? If not should be cleaned out first.
Those salamander ones in the mastic tubes are the easiest, rad valves off, plug out, inhibitor tube (in masitc gun) attached, valve open, pump it in,valve shut, plug back in, jobs done ,5 mins max, no need to drain rad,no pouring chemicals into bits of make shift pipe funnels,no mess. PWAF
I agree with Moonshine, heated towel rails are usually good because you have a large empty tube at the top to squirt into. Some rads are a right pain with injectors as there is little room to squirt without it spewing back out again!
What about these: http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/sea/searchresults.jsp;jsessionid=5JHGVI5FUOHPQCSTHZOSFFY?dyncharset=UTF-8&q=funnel&pn=1&pd=1&pi=1&cn=1&cd=1&x=0&y=0
Jesus! Stop pisssing about or a plumbers becoming as thick as sparks. Half inch male female iron elbow . 52pence job done... NEXT
Just bung it in the F&E tank, its heavier than water for a vented system anyway. I love towel rads for this as I drain them and just pour in via a funnel. Cheaper than the concentrated ones for combis.
Large nut off the top of the towel rail pipe in syphone off. I used the same pipe that runs air pumps on fish tanks. & if you don't clean out first the inhibitor will cling to the sludge & you will get a blockage.
After many years using a tube attached to a funnel I have converted over to a product I saw on test in PHPI mag called Rapid-Dose. Its by far the easiest and cleanest way of getting chemicals into a heating system of any type. Its basically an aerosol can that you just attach to the heating system and it empties itself!....you dont even have to drain off any system water, it only takes a minute or so and best of all it doesnt make any mess....I bought a tool kit which has adaptors to inject in through the filling loop, a radiator bleed point and even a circulating pump. I've tried all the mastics, injectors etc on the market and there is no comparison...this is head and shoulders better.
Re: Adding Inhibitor Posted: Nov 17, 2006 11:51 PM Reply Jesus! Stop pisssing about or a plumbers becoming as thick as sparks. Half inch male female iron elbow . 52pence job done... This one wins it for me, easy and cheap, could'nt be simpler