Advice for glass panels above internal doors

Discussion in 'Builders' Talk' started by issueskid, Jul 29, 2014.

  1. issueskid

    issueskid New Member

    I'm in the process of renovating my house and I've recently had 2 bedrooms fully plastered.

    The problem I'm having is that the house used to have windows above the bedroom doors, when I moved in these were boarded over with chipboard then wallpapered. When I gutted the rooms I removed all of this and I intend to paint the rooms rather than wallpaper.

    I thought my plasterer would just fill these holes in and plaster over the bits of the door frame that reach up to the ceiling and surround the glass pane section. He advised that this wouldn't be a great solution and the plaster would crack around the wood.

    So what are my options? I'm contemplating ripping out the entire door frame to remove the window panel but this seems like a lot of work as I'd need a new frame, a studded wall and more plaster work doing. Alternatively I guess I could buy new panes of glass and stick them in but I wanted to avoid this altogether. Finally I've thought about covering the panel with a piece of MDF, flush to the wall. I'd then paint seal the surrounding area and paint the MDF the same colour as my walls but I think this might look a bit too odd.

    Any suggestions to solve this?
     

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  2. Hmmmm.

    Your walls look to be made from timber studwork and not solid block? In which case, a simple Q - if your doors hadn't had glass panels above them but plain wall, what would that upper bit of wall have been be made of? Ans - just what they are made from now - studwork and plasterboard.

    So why your plasterer thinks that this would crack in your case defeats me. (But I may be missing something, so don't take what I say as gospel...)

    As it stands, I honestly don't understand why he didn't do as you requested; the new p'board would be 'taped' to the main walls and could even have had their edges PVA'd together, so that there would be very little risk of cracks forming (although door frames take the most punishment.)

    Can you tell us - is the wall to the left of that doorway timber stud with plasterboard?
     
  3. issueskid

    issueskid New Member

    Hi, my walls are all solid, there isn't any stud work upstairs.

    There used to be a pane of glass in the panel above the door but the previous owner had stuck chipboard here and paper it over.
    I'm not even sure if the glass is still in place as I never removed the wallpaper from here.

    The plasterer didn't want to work on this area as the door frame reaches up to the ceiling and is flush with the walls. In this case he would have had to plaster inside the window panel (which is wood) and skim over the top of the wooden frame, which would have been very thin anyway as it would have had to remain flush with the wall.
     
  4. Phil the Paver

    Phil the Paver Screwfix Select

    Am I missing something here, if you don't want the glass above the door frame, why can't you just cut out the glass frame insitu and fit a smaller frame that you can board over and then just plaster along with the rest if the wall.
     
  5. Ok, so the main walls are solid (I was thrown by what looked like a vertical plasterboard sheet join - what is that?) which means you need to take greater care that there isn't much movement betwixt the 'solid' and 'timber' parts.

    Perhaps he was more concerned about the hassle of possibly having to 'lower' that vertical stud that joins the two - in theory you'd want all that panel and stud covered by plasterboard which would end up at the same level as the wall before being skimmed, then you tape the join and skim the lot.

    Q - that vertical stud that forms the left part of that top panel, how 'flush' with the top bit of 'skim' is it?
     
  6. chippie244

    chippie244 Super Member

    I think what looks like a board join is a wire chase and the plasterer is being an idle twot.
     
  7. DIYDave.

    DIYDave. Screwfix Select

    Hi there
    Don't want to state the obvious but when your having any work done, ensure that all the details are discussed, agreed, quoted for and are written within the quote / job spec before any work commences

    Saves all the faffing about that you now have and means that the work is completed and carried out in the correct and logical order

    I did some work at my sisters house and removed a few of these windows and boarded up all ready for the plasterer to come in

    I'm a diy'er but I reckon the plasterer would not be happy to simply board flush to frame then skim over the lot. This would mean skimming over the door frame and even if taped, a high chance of cracks appearing between the different substrates

    If the options were discussed with him prior to the job, then he wasn't interested in getting any more involved than necessary and simply skimmed the walls

    Anyway, if your a bit handy, you can do the prep work and hopefully get the plasterer back to skim above the doors......but......its gonna cost you !

    Saw through the 2 verticals of the frame just above the lower horizontal section. The frame may be nailed or screwed into the wall, the top horizontal rail possibly nailed to the joists. You need to prise these sections out (2 verticals and top horizontal) Check that the remaining horizontal rail is still firmly attached to the verticals. If a bit loose, drive a couple of screws either side into the door frame

    Now measure the thickness of the wall and minus 25 mm (2 sheets of 12.5mm plaster board) Then minus 6 mm (2 skims of plaster at 3mm) The figure you have left is the size stud you need for framing

    This is assuming you want both sides boarded in and to finish flush with the wall

    Buy your studwork and frame out above the door, ensure this is central to the remaining door frame and screw and plug to the walls, screw top and bottom horizontal rails to existing frame / ceiling
    I also added a central vertical stud but probably not essential. As you work check you have the studwork square and central to frame and securely fixed

    Screw on your plasterboard sheets, use PB screws and slightly sink into the PB, but not so it tears through the paper. Check that the PB is around 3mm recessed from the finished wall surface

    Call your friendly spread and explain the situation, the prep you have done and what you now want and the cost. Agree all of this before any work starts or ask he wants to take a look before quoting
    After you have removed the top of the frame, there will probably be some making good to the surrounding plaster but this can be sorted out by the plasterer
    He will tape the joints, skim and hopefully neatly blend in to existing plastered walls and ceiling

    Good luck
     
  8. Phil the Paver

    Phil the Paver Screwfix Select


    This is the detailed version of what I said. :)
     
  9. :rolleyes: Tsk, Dave is a typical DIYer on here.

    Starts off coming on here for advice, then before you know it he's showing everyone else what to do... :D
     
  10. DIYDave.

    DIYDave. Screwfix Select

    Your right Phil, my answer was like one of DA s, full, rambling and a detailed response

    I just figured from the OP post that he didn't really have a scooby so may have needed a bit more of a help with the details - apologies to I K if this is not the case

    And Phil, I'm really not trying to steal your glory, just helping out a fellow diy'er

    Now Mr DA...... From your own admission you to are a diy'er but you've gotta be one of the most prolific advice givers on here - agreed ?

    Gotta say though you really go out of your way to help others with your advice. I like when you admit that some of your suggestions may not be tried and tested by yourself, but more theoretical in the approach - that's real honesty there

    Yeah I've taken plenty from the forum, had some laughs as well (which way up for decking) but try to give a little back, if I feel confident with my response

    Anyway, must crack on fellas, until next time eh
     
  11. Phil the Paver

    Phil the Paver Screwfix Select

    Mr DIYDave, im not offended in any way, I was, in away knocking my own reply as being a little short of detail, I sometimes forget that the obvious to me may not be to others and then don't give a detailed enough reply.:)
     
  12. Dave - £iver in the post as agreed.

    Awesome response, man :oops:
     
  13. DIYDave.

    DIYDave. Screwfix Select

    Phil, I'm really not having a pop mate , just light hearted banter

    Your one of the good guys for sure, always offering advice and replying to loads of posts - you've helped me as well when I've posted so cheers mate, it's all sweet, fine and dandy

    Now, where's the OP gone (as usual) !
     
    Phil the Paver likes this.
  14. Jeepers, Dave, stop beating yersel' up, man :).

    It's pretty clear Phil took no offence whatsoever - in fact the complete opposite.

    Tsk... :rolleyes:
     

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