Advice on securing a stud wall to tiled floor

Discussion in 'Builders' Talk' started by Gilan kelly, May 3, 2016.

  1. Gilan kelly

    Gilan kelly New Member

    Hi, I am hoping some one can help!?

    I am fitting out a new shop premises (new venture) and the place used to be a hair dressers with really nice tiled floors throughout. We want to keep the tiles but need to decide up the space. I am fine with doing the work but I am wondering if there is a away around drilling through or removing the tiles in order to put up the partitions?

    Would using a strong adhesive give enough strength to keep it in place? My main concert is where the doors will be opening and closing - over time would this jolt the adhesive loose if you know what I mean?

    Any advice would be great.

    Gilan
     

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  2. DIYDave.

    DIYDave. Screwfix Select

    There was a similar post few weeks ago re building stud wall on laminate and again, not drilling, maybe have a search for it

    In essence though, keep the uprights nice and super tight against the head and sole timbers, plenty of noggins, plenty of fixings in ceiling timbers and adjoining wall and just silicone sole plate onto tiles

    I'm only DIY so more detailed / better advice may well follow
     
  3. Wow - nice floor, Gilan.

    Yes, a good adhesive like Everbuild StixAll (there are other makes) will fix the floorplate pretty darned permanently. (To remove the remnants of the base plate afterwards will likely require a sharp chisel...)

    A chippy on here (can't remember who) explained that the way to build a tight partition is to sit the floorplate and place the 'ceiling plate' on top. Then hold the uprights vertically so's it's touching the bare ceiling and mark the height of the combined floor/ceiling plates on it. Add 3mm and cut...

    That'll make them nicely snug to fit - position them at a slight angle to fit, and 'ammer them vertically into place!

    If you do manage to cut your uprights snuggly like this, I wouldn't go crazy on adhesive as it shouldn't be needed - a single wiggly bead should do. But, as you say, increase this around the door openings to be sure to be sure.

    Obviously mark out the dead straight lines on t'floor and t'ceiling first, so tap the plates up to. Use a cord plumb bob to ensure both match up.
     
  4. Gilan kelly

    Gilan kelly New Member

    Thanks for the heads up on the other post, I will have a look for it now. I figured if everything was super tight plus some strong adhesive would probably hold it. I suppose my main concern was where the doors will be opening and closing? Gilan
     
  5. Gilan kelly

    Gilan kelly New Member

    Thanks devil's advocate, I didn't refresh between the last post and yours! I think this sounds like the best option. Its always good to get some more opinions before doing the work though! I suppose if it was that bad I could always remove some plaster and drill into the floor. The land lord has said we can do whatever we want and don't mind if we remove tiles or walls but the last thing I wanted to do was get to the end of the tenancy - remove the stud walls and then leave holes everywhere...thanks for the advice so far - any more ideas or suggestions if there are any would be appreciated. Gilan
     
  6. StixAll is awesome stuff. Very sticky, and sets to a rubbery finish. Very, very tough when set, but has a nice amount of flex and certainly won't crack.

    I've used it for all sorts of jobs - re-soling a near-worn through hole my sandals (just smeared it over), repaired my son's rucksack handles (still holding), numerous jobs on cars, boats and everything else.

    Once set, that base plate won't come off again with out splitting.

    Similar job to you recently - a false chimney breast on a new vinyl floor. I didn't want to screw through the tiles so bonded the 4x2 base plates down with StixAll. The plate along the ceiling managed to miss all the joists above, so I glued that one too...

    I do not expect it to move.

    Get a tube of StixAll and play with it. You'll be convinced :)
     
  7. longboat

    longboat Screwfix Select

    I would be cautious hammering uprights for the frame to get a tight fit, snug should do but wouldn't over do it.
    If there's a slight void under one of the tiles it could crack and you don't want that.
    Use the adhesive but try not to get any on the grout lines where it would be hardest to remove if you need to.
    I wouldn't worry about drilling a few holes, these could be easily disguised with some grout on a marbled effect floor (looks like such in the pic?). Even when you know where they are, after a couple of days you'll have to look closely to find em.
     
    Deleted member 33931 likes this.

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