Awkward door frame/architrave

I would have use a shorten the door & squared it up, & plasterboarded above.

 

I would have used a door blank and built up some detail in line with the cut using mouldings.
The simplest thing is probably to put in another layer of plasterboard, which will meet with the finished line of the architrave.

 

What is a door blank? I would of plaster boarded above too. If you are going to add more plasterboard watch those cables

 

Door blank is a solid door. How much is the frame past the level of the PB?

 

A door blank is a plywood covered blockboard. Can be easily cut to size and is solid and cheap. The cut edges can be given a stripwood finish. Some sense of bespoke can be achieved with well placed mouldings and such. Ask for it at a decent builders or timber yard.

The cut down door in the photo looks dreadful, and quite likely to come apart at some point.

 

A good 3 inches, looks like.

Mr. HandyAndy - Really

 

3"! How do you work that out Handy?! If so, caulk ain't gonna do it!

 

Agree....this is what you need to do. Example of my loft....pic below

 

A brand called Richard Burbidge sell stick on door mouldings....(B&Q used to sell them) but I can't find an example for you. You buy this and modify one of the squares for where the corner is cut off.

 

Like this.

 

Here is the Richard Burbidge leaflet. look at bottom of page 24 "Door panel mouldings".
They cost about £30 or per set, so you would need two sets for both sides. They are stick-on. Cheaper if you have the skills to make your own and use some mitre-bond.

http://www.tottontimber.com/FY039.pdf

 

Good find KIAB. I was struggling to find an example from Google images.

 

Wouldn't bother with the inside of the door myself, as it's seldom seen.

 

Had to think abit, knew I had a leaflet on MDF angled panels stashed away.



http://www.doors2size.co.uk/mdf-doors-for-painting

Slightly off topic, same firm produce MDF 3D relief maps.

http://cncrouting.co.uk/projects/3d-relief-maps/

 

Well, that's a relief.


@@@tumbleweed@@@

 

That's better on the doors.

 

crikey, that looks awful.

 

Ry, if it ain't too late, you can modify the actual door so's it fits the frame better. Since it's going to be painted white, you can hide a multitude underneath...

Similar issue to you in my own loft conversion. What I did was to cut the door at the angle require (solid pine, Wickes') and then basically butcher it.

The inset panel was shaped by cutting the inset panel edge with a Stanley knife, and the 'slope' then cut away with a chisel to roughly match the rest of the panel. Lots of sanding to get it looking smooth enough.

For the outer stile on the sloping edge, I can't remember if I used the part of the top/side stile that was cut off, but I think I probably had to use a separate piece of timer to do the sloping stile on the outside, and this was cut to suite the remaining top and vertical stiles, butted against them, glued and a long screw fitted into each stile - no such thing as tenons or that silliness.

Then a bit of planing to get it flush with the rest of the door. And no-doubt a bit of belt-sanding too.

Finally a short length of quadrant moulding to match the existing was fitted along the outside edge of the inner panel (again, I can't remember if I used the two pieces that came off the corner I cut off, or bought extra.)

A bit of filling and sanding, and no-one needs to know what's underneath.

As for the architrave around the door, I wanted the door itself to be as large as possible, so removed as little from its corner as I could. The Ogee archi along that edge against the sloping ceiling is barely existing - only an edge strip of it remained.

No fancy tools like routers are needed - chust a sheet of coarse-grade paper.