Bathroom condensation

Discussion in 'Builders' Talk' started by iainc, Feb 10, 2015.

  1. iainc

    iainc New Member

    HI all,

    i have small en-suite bathroom (about 4ft x 8ft) which was installed by B&Q about 3 years ago. The layout is toilet on the left as you go in, then the sink then a wall to wall shower enclosure. There is a Manrose Gold extractor fan above the toilet which is wired into the lighting ciruit - i.e. it is only on when the lights are on.

    The room does tend to be cold and is heated only by a 450mm x 1000 towel rail. It is double glazed and has a vent on the window.

    I have B&Q coming to replace several popped doors, and rusted light fittings. I also noted that the towel rail is developing rust from where condensation is forming on it. There is no mould but lots of condensation damage.

    So can anyone suggest some remedies?

    I am thinking:

    1) Get a better extractor fan , preferably with humidity sensor and timer. I think i would have to take the wiring out of the lighting circuit and connect into the ring mains however.
    2) Fit a bigger towel rail (450 x 1600)

    Anyone got any other ideas / suggestions?
     
  2. Welshdragon1

    Welshdragon1 Active Member

    You mention, it was installed 3 yrs ago.........

    Have the issues with condensation always been there since install

    Or

    Started more recently ??

    In my experience, I find towel rail(s), don't provide as much heat as a conventional radiator(s) & many a landlord that we are contracted to reverts back to the conventional rad

    OK ok before anyone says Ah!!! but Towel Rails / Rads are more aesthetically pleasing to the eye, that of course is true, but aesthetically pleasing does not always mean as equally or better for the job (performance wise)

    Have you checked & cleaned out the Mainrose Gold Extractor fan, as extractor fans are dust magnets ??
     
    FatHands likes this.
  3. Mr Jenks

    Mr Jenks Member

    I always install 6" fans as i find that they flow far more air out of bathrooms be it stale air or air when the shower is on and make sure that the timer runs on for a good few minutes after its switched off!
    4" fans IMO are no use where a shower is fitted in a room and the cost difference is negligible between the two.

    By all means correct me if im wrong but im speaking from personal experience.

    Happy fanning
    Mr J
     
  4. iainc

    iainc New Member

    The condensation problem has been there since install. I'm going to check out the fan and vent this evening to see what size it is and whether it's wired up properly. I'm hoping that just by having a fan that runs on, it will solve a lot of the problems.
     
  5. Pretty much covered above. If you have condensation, you need extra ventilation. That's pretty much it.

    Yes, I know that heating the room further will also 'help', but what that tends to do is keep more moisture in the aire - and it'll condense out the first chance it has, such as when the room cools overnight.

    It is all pretty self evident. If you, for example, open a window whilst you're showering, you will freeze your bar locks off, BUT you'll have very little condensation 'cos it will all have been vented away. So 'cold' does not always mean 'damp'; 'warm' does not always mean 'dry'.

    So, you should either have an extractor on a timer - for a goodly 5 minutes after lights out - or else a humidity-controlled one, but make sure it's sensitive enough.

    And cracking open that window at the same time will help too.
     
  6. DIYDave.

    DIYDave. Screwfix Select

    Would definately suggest going for either a fan with overrun timmer or a humistat model

    With a timer fan, you don't usually run this from the ring mains (maybe you can if fused down via an FCU) ?

    Timer fan requires nuetral, switched live and permanant live so use 3 core and earth cable, again from the lighting circuit
    Experiment with the overrun timing but something like 15-20 mins should clear the steam after showering

    Only problem here is that you may not switch on light if showering during the day so then no fan and If you get up during the night for a whaz, switch on the light and you then have the fan running for 20 minutes

    I've not used a humistat fan myself but they seem to make sense, taking the above into consideration
     
  7. Jitender

    Jitender Screwfix Select

    Is this a chrome plated towel rail or white steel constructed?
     
  8. iainc

    iainc New Member

    it's a chrome plated towel rail. I checked out the extractor fan. It's a bog standard Manrose Gold (100mm), but the cable running to it is 4 core, so it looks like it can be wired for a humidistat or timer. So next step is to find a decent humidistat fan...
     
  9. Jitender

    Jitender Screwfix Select

    Does the fan extract through the wall or into the roof?
     
  10. DIYDave.

    DIYDave. Screwfix Select

    So it seems that you have a 3 core and earth supply to the fan but a fan model with no timer function ?

    I take it that just 2 cores are connected to the fan at present with the permanent live terminated
    May be worthwhile checking that the fan end of the permanent live is indeed "permanently live"
    You can do this simply with a neon screwdriver, test the screwdriver is working first by testing on the fan terminals whilst its running, then test the permanent live

    If wiring all seems ok, then a straightforward swap could be an easy option which would improve the condensation problem

    http://www.screwfix.com/p/manrose-m...rd-axial-bathroom-extractor-fan-w-timer/62530
     
  11. iainc

    iainc New Member

    Hi Jitender - it's through the wall.

    DIYDave - thanks for that - it does look like a terminated permanent live, but I shall dig out a neon screwdriver tonight and find out.

    Has anyone got an opinion as to whether the humidistat fans are worth the effort? I notice screwfix has a swanky new xpelair one for about £100... Not sure why it's so expensive though!
     

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