Bathroom Downlights, HELP!!!!!

Discussion in 'Electricians' Talk' started by greeny181, Jul 4, 2013.

  1. greeny181

    greeny181 Member

    Hi guys please could you help me differentiate between the different types of down lights available for my bathroom ceiling. Im just about to put in a false ceiling so getting the wiring sorted for the lights  now would obviously be a sensible way forward,

    1) Trying to weigh up whats the reason why people use the low voltage against the mains voltage?
    2) Do bathroom ceiling lights HAVE to be fire rated or can you use regular downlights?

    Thank for your time reagrds, Jonny
  2. unphased

    unphased Screwfix Select

    Hello greeny

    It really depends on how high your ceiling is. Most bathrooms have a zone 1 and a zone 2. Generally all lights must be IP rated if in a zone. 12V is chosen for added safety. These days LED is getting more popular because of the huge energy savings. They don't have to fire-rated unless your ceiling is part of a fire rated regime in the house.

    So in summary, use IP44 downlights of any type in zone 2. The best on the market if you can afford them are JCC7 LED. They meet all standards and are IP65 so can be mounted above a shower. IP65 zone 1.

    Regards
    FatHands likes this.
  3. greeny181

    greeny181 Member

    Thank you for your quick response. Think im going to go with the LEDs.
    How are the downlights wired? Are they wired from one downlight to another from the main feed, or are all the downlights wired to a choc box with the main feed in and switch out?

    regards and again thanks for your help!
  4. unphased

    unphased Screwfix Select

    When wiring a number of lights I find it is far easier to take a live feed and neutral in to the switch, and a switched live and neutral out of the switch and loop to each light fitting. You shouldn't need any junction boxes at all. Just join the neutral wires in the switch with a connector block, put the live feed in to the COM or L1 and the switched live out in to L2.
  5. greeny181

    greeny181 Member

    Thank you again for your reply, massive help, one last thing, what do I do with the earth wire when I'm looping from light to light. Is it as simple as to put a connector block on the end and tape up?
    cheers again for your help!
  6. unphased

    unphased Screwfix Select

    Good quality light fittings should have a means of securing the earth wires as well as the switched live and neutral. If they are class 2 fittings (no earth required) then yes just join the earths in a connector block.
  7. greeny181

    greeny181 Member

    Hi 'unphased', the project is goin ok although had to leave it for a while to concentrate on the kitchen. Back in the bathroom now, just bought a 3 pole fan isolator,where does this need to sit in the wiring diagram? Thanks for your help!!!
  8. unphased

    unphased Screwfix Select

    Hi greeny. A three pole fan isolator is used for timer fans and is used in the feed to the fan. It isolates permanent live (needed for the timer), switched live (needed to activate the fan) and neutral. The most popular way of wiring a timer fan is to have it switched with the lights but some people prefer to have independent operation. Fan manufacturers will often stipulate a 3A fused spur as well. Correct way to do the lighting and fan would be to make the bathroom all come on from the spur. The spur would then provide the 3A specified by the fan manufacturer and LED lights will use very small current so a 3A will be more than adequate. Switched spur to light switch then 3-core to fan and 2-core to lights. A jb will help to ease wiring made from a single surface patress, 15A connector block and a blanking plate.
    FatHands likes this.
  9. greeny181

    greeny181 Member

    Thanks for the reply, see if iv got ya ha here.
    Main supply to switch, then from switch T&E to first LED then loop to next LED etc
    Also from switch, 3 - core to Fan Isolator, then 3 - core to Fan.
  10. unphased

    unphased Screwfix Select

  11. unphased

    unphased Screwfix Select

    Diagram shows one way of doing it. :)
  12. unphased

    unphased Screwfix Select

    WP_000200.jpg This may suit you better because you can use 3-core and 2-core wires. The other alternative requires single core which you may not have. The jb is made up from a single surface patress, a 15A connector block and a blanking plate/lid. You could use a 20A 4-terminal jb but its more fiddly. Easier to use the made up one.

    Regards
    FatHands likes this.
  13. FatHands

    FatHands Active Member

    That's handy, nice one UP :)
  14. retiredsparks

    retiredsparks Member

    Un
    How do you get fan 'run on' with that arrangement, assuming the OP wants the fan timed.
    RS;)
  15. unphased

    unphased Screwfix Select

    There is a live feed direct to the fan and switched live to the fan from the light switch. I think I have shown the correct wiring unless you can see a mistake?
  16. greeny181

    greeny181 Member

  17. greeny181

    greeny181 Member

    Hows this look ?

    Regards

    Jonny
  18. unphased

    unphased Screwfix Select

    Hi mate yes that looks okay. What did you use to create that lovely drawing? Makes mine look like kiddy scribble.
  19. greeny181

    greeny181 Member

    haha thanks, just microsoft word
  20. retiredsparks

    retiredsparks Member

    Up
    ... was thinking that you wanted the 3 pole to operate the fan as a seperate entity. Apologies.
    But i think the degree in tech drawing was wasted !:p
    RS

Share This Page