Bathroom fan isolator switch

Discussion in 'Electricians' Talk' started by DIYDave., Nov 15, 2013.

  1. seneca

    seneca Screwfix Select

    There is a mention in the regs. Lec that a safe zone on one side of a wall can be used for an accessory on the other side, 100mm thick max. I think?
  2. Lectrician

    Lectrician Screwfix Select

    Which can be used for stud walls, but not walls that are constructed from 100mm blocks or bricks, as with scratch coat and plaster or dry lining, the wall is greater than 100mm, and the zone then does not pass through.
  3. seneca

    seneca Screwfix Select

    That's true Lec although a blanking plate could be placed on the side where the cable is running. Not being pedantic but that's one way of getting around a problem!
  4. Lectrician

    Lectrician Screwfix Select

    Yep, which is why I said
    There are many ways around it, but dropping T+E down one side and and passing it through is not compliant.

    I remember when the 17th came out and the reg about the zones passing from one side to another (only if there is a door on the wall) was mentioned, it was designed to allow for cables in stud walls which nearly always pass down through holes in the centre of noggins - making them less than 50mm from the surface in the other room from the accessory.
  5. Caddy

    Caddy Member

    I have had a scan through the posts but haven't seen a mention so far as to where exactly is the Fan situated?
  6. daver34

    daver34 Member

    The box for the fan iso switch could have been sited outside bathroom, between existing ceiling height and the lowered bathroom ceiling, bore thro into bathroom ceiling void.
  7. unphased

    unphased Screwfix Select

    If the ceiling is higher than 2.25m above floor level then it is not inconceivable to remove the triple pole pull cord switch and put a triple pole fan isolator plate switch on the ceiling. It can be fitted to a plasterboard patress cut in to the ceiling to replace the pull-cord switch. That gets rid of one pull-cord.

    Alternatively, a triple pole fan isolator plate switch could be cut in to the plasterboard at the top of the wall against ceiling level to replace the pull-cord switch. The light switch could then be located outside the room by running the switch wire down the same vertical plane as the fan isolator and mounting the switch on the other side of the wall. That would be prescribed zone compliant. Thus, two pull-cord switches removed. The fan isolator would be inside the bathroom and the light switch outside.
  8. Lectrician

    Lectrician Screwfix Select

    Would that comply height wise? Not for a new build it wouldn't, but granted, for a refurb it would.
  9. DIYDave.

    DIYDave. Active Member

    Hi guys and I didn't expect such a debate to develop from my original question;
    I don't intend to make this into a bigger issue than it really is and I wouldn't have expected my sister to consider what type of isolator she wanted fitted. Likewise I wouldn't expect this detail to be itemised on the quote.
    The electrician or bathroom shop boss might have explained the options to the customer before fitting a pull cord isolator ( remember this leaves 3 pull cords hanging from ceiling) I also think a lazy spark with little pride in his work
    Lectrician says it's hard to comment without seeing the room, that's fair comment but don't always want to put every detail into a post as makes it too long.
    With regard to cable/ accessory zones, I feel I have some understanding of this (even as a diy'er ) and certainly the spark would know the requirements.
    Bathroom has shower and hand basin on one side of room, no bath in room so to my understanding, the other side of the room is out of zone. The fan is fitted in farthest corner away from shower so the iso switch could have been flush mounted next to fan, in the bathroom
    My point Lectrician about a new ceiling put in and walls boarded was that this gives easy access to instal cables , no chasing, no trying to pull cables through access holes, cables across ceiling and dropped behind PB , how easy is that !
    Cheers Un for your ideas, must say I had thought about changing pull cord for iso switch, ceiling mounted using PB box. As I said in earlier post, pull cord is in zone 2 but I haven't checked if ceiling is above 2.25 m, if it is above height, gonna change it myself
    Yeah know it comes under part p but feel that this is within my capabilities (can of worms now being opened) !!!!
    Thanks all for your ideas and input
  10. daver34

    daver34 Member

    Why did he fit the fan isolator pull switch (maintenance only) beside the shower, and not at the fan. Does the fan come on with the light.
  11. DIYDave.

    DIYDave. Active Member

    Yes daver, fan comes on with light, 2 pull cord switches bang next to each other - shower and fan iso, right next to shower cubicle
    Approx 300mm to the right is 3rd pull cord for light
    Looks a bit like a bell ringers dream !!
  12. Lectrician

    Lectrician Screwfix Select

    My issue was if you want light switch and fan iso outside door, at low level, you CANNOT run the T&E cables down the bathroom side of the wall and through to the switch the other side, this would not comply if done simply like that.
  13. daver34

    daver34 Member

    The original poster is talking about the fan isolator switch, not the light switch, outside or inside.
  14. Lectrician

    Lectrician Screwfix Select

    Yea, but these days, the fan iso should be at light switch height, not above the door. Especially so as people seldom use them as isolators, but functional switches.
  15. Lectrician

    Lectrician Screwfix Select

    Don't get me wrong, I hate pull cords, but just saying it may not be "as easy as all that". Especially if the wall needs boxes sinking in, with slight risk to decor.
  16. DIYDave.

    DIYDave. Active Member

    Ok Lectrician , thanks for continued advice
    Next project on my sisters list is to have the hall walls and ceiling plastered as currently artexed (this is outside the bathroom)
    Would therefor be the ideal time to move light and fan cables to hall side and chop into wall, as suggested.
    Extend cables inside ceiling void with either maintenance free jb's or straight connection waggos
    Much neater
    Just trying to resolve this for my sis
    Thanks again guys

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