Belle Maximix 140 Petrol Engine Cement Upright Mixer wont start

Not even firing, pull engine over, check for spark plug for condition, might be worn, heck gap, while pulling over to start, you should have a nice spark,
Is fuel actually getting through to engine.

B&S engine can be a bugger to start,got one on mower, prefer Honda or Loncin G120 engine.

And no need with bold & size of font.

 

Are you using the choke and fresh fuel as fuel will go stale after sitting fir a period of time. I'd also get a new spark plug and whilst of check it is sparking

 

If you flood the engine the spark plug will be wet with fuel.

You also might have some water in the carb,petrol tank, with cold weather you can get condensation forming inside the metal fuel tank & carb float bowl.

 

Judging by the way you were pointing at things - I guess you have no idea about the engine or indeed engines in general

the manual is here - worth a read

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/837057/Belle-Minimix-150.html

 

Wrong manual.

 

Gives him a start Although this is electric - at least he can find where the drum drive mechanism is rather than pointing to it quizzically.

There is a whole list of articles here

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=b...ome&ie=UTF-8#q=belle+petrol+mixer+won+t+start

 

You might find a engine manual here: https://www.briggsandstratton.com/eu/en_gb/support/manuals.html

 

Thats it, there is lots of information, manuals and how to's out there .....

 

That B&S 3HP hasn't changed much in 30 years,or so,still can get spares I think, has been superceded now, but so easy to work on, but a bugger to start when left for a long time.
Belle did a engine conversion for some mixers replacing the B&S engine with a Honda GX engine,superb engines, & there was Loncin G120 engine, not too familar with them.

Here we go: http://www.lsengineers.co.uk/small-plant-spares-17/cement-mixer-spares/belle-minimix-150-spares.html

 

The current Belle MaxiMix 140 MA04 & later MA05 uses Honda engines.
I've even seen a few Belle mixers using Kawasaki engines fitted by their owners as replacements.

 

Have a Honda engine in my Muck Truck, sometimes I don't use it all year - even then it runs within a minute or two of pulling the starter

 

I've been looking on Freecycle, Ebay for either a free or cheap Honda engine for my Belle,currently using 110v motor, as I lost my temper with B&S engine & clobber it with a lump hammer,once... nope a few times, definitely wouldn't start after that.
B&S on lawnmower might be getting same treatment, spent hours several yesterday & it refused to start.

 

BBAfS, let's go back to basics...

The 'thing' at 35 seconds in the fuel tank (you knew that) with the carb behind it - that bit's important and we'll need to come back to it.

At 45 seconds you have the engine 'stop' switch - when you flick it to the left so's it touches to the top of the spark plug, the leccy is grounded so the SP doesn't spark any more - so the engine stops (The video would have been more funny if you had been able to start it up - and then couldn't stop it...).

At 1.04 you have the speed regulator - that's basically an automatic throttle and keeps the engine running at a fixed speed regardless of whether it's empty or full of mix. Stop flicking that thing...

At 1.25 you have the 'choke'. This enriches the fuel mix which is what you need when you start it up from cold - like now. And when it's been off overnight - perhaps even over lunch.

So, try again as you have but (a) make sure the STOP is not against the spark plug, and (b) the CHOKE is pulled out. See if that makes a difference. Try it as good half-dozen times. Listen for a change of response from the engine - at the moment it is completely dead, so listen for the odd 'cough' in response.

If it does start, then push in the choke as soon as the engine starts to stutter - it should then run smoothly enough.


If this doesn't work, then you need to get intimate with the SP and the Carb.

First the carb - look at its underside and you should hopefully see a part that's 'bowl'-shaped. See if it has a drain screw in its bottom or around the bottom edge. If so, release it and allow fuel to trickle out - collect this in a bowl and see what state it's in. See if there are water beads at the bottom.

Ok, after a few seconds - when you are sure fresh petrol is coming out - refit the screw.

Next the SP. You'll need to undo this using a special spanner and then lay in on the top of the engine block with the lead reconnected and making sure the SP body is making contact with the engine block. Get someone to stare at the SP 'gap' and see if it sparks when the engine is cranked.

(By the way, don't touch the bare top of the SP when cranking or the engine is running - it'll be a very big OUCH.)

 

Fit a new spark plug first, looking at video, it has been painted, so might be original.
Looking at spark plug can tell you a lot.

 

Ah, it might be that this model doesn't have a carb bowl but takes its fuel directly up from a drop pipe in to the petrol tank? BBAfS, have a look under the petrol tank and see if there's a drain there instead. If there is, then drain it all out and - if it's clean & fresh - you can refill using the same fuel but leaving the bit at the bottom out (which will have any water or dirt in it).

 

Good vids on PooTube too -

 

Testing a SP at 2.24:

 

fresh plug, fresh petrol. Leave it alone for a few hours to make sure it isn't flooded (if you've been trying to start it). Take plug out. Drip 2-3 drops ONLY of petrol down plug hole. replace plug. Should fire first pull. If it dies and won't restart, then there may be something wrong with the carb. Usually fiddly fingers have upset the mixture. A fat spark and petrol in the cylinder, it HAS to fire (unless you put too much in and flood it).