Bendy jigsaw blades!

What jigsaw do you have?

 

Don't use jigsaw very much, but blades I use, come from Saxton Blades.

https://www.saxtonblades.co.uk/jigsaw-blades

 

School boy error.

ALL jigsaw blades deflect

 

And Sabre blades.

Some makes more than others.

 

Our normal choice of jigsaw blade for worktops is the Bosch 101D, been using them for for years with no problem. I find blades only tend to bend if you use too much force, just let the blade find it's own rate of cut and don't force it.

 

As above. Its hard to get a really good straight line so you need a decent and powerful jigsaw to start with. The Bosch blades are decent, but there are others of course designed for cutting laminate and worktops.

I usually drill a 10mm hole in each corner, then with the top well supported, cut from one hole to the next letting the saw do the work.
Its easy to inadvertently apply sideways pressure as you're guiding the jigsaw, that causes the blade to deflect and bend.
Have a few clamps handy to support the offcut to prevent it ripping out as you get most of the cuts done.

 

Last sink cut out I did, used plunge saw & handsaw to finish off.

 

Yep nice if you have a plunge saw

If you're careful and dont have a plunge saw, you can start the cut with the jigsaw and then get a handsaw in which will give you a straighter cut.

My old jigsaw was pretty useless at doing cutouts in worktop when I first started and upgrading to a good Bosch made the world of difference.
More powerful, smoother cutting action...night and day difference.

 

Such a handy tool,seldom use my circular saw now, & with a adaptor plate, you can also use your router with the guide rail.
Made some storage units last year, routed all the rebates in a sheet of ply, then cut sheet to size,so quick.

 

Its still on the list, but this year, have been doing a lot of landscaping work so haven't got around to buying one. Loads of internal refurb work coming up so I might have to prise open the wallet!

 

Was thinking, last time I cut out the worktop I had same problems. I corrected the cut with a router, but only after covering the worktop surface with a thin piece of ply, as earlier I left a skid mark on buy the router base.

Has anyone completely cut out sink n hob hole with a router only? Without splitting the top surface?

 

For normal Laminate worktops i always cut sinks and hobs out with a jigsaw, as i said earlier, i don't have any problem with the blade bending unless it's blunt of course.
If the worktop is solid Acylic or Encore (chipboard core with 6mm acrylic surface), i always use the router. All the underslung acrylic sinks we use have a template available for each type of sink, so routing it out is straightforward. Hobs in acrylic tops, i always use the trusty Festool plunge saw.
I see absolutely no point in routing a sink or hob hole out in laminate worktops though, it would take ages and makes no difference as to how well a hob or sink would fit.

 

Yep, still use a jigsaw... Carefully.
There is a certain amount of tolerance for a sink or hob cutout...but not much. Go steady with the right kit and all is well