Best filler choice around refitted windows - not using inner strips.

Discussion in 'Builders' Talk' started by Plec, Aug 21, 2017.

  1. Plec

    Plec Member

    I'm having replacement windows fitted next week and i'm not having the internal strips fitted to fill/cover the gap between the window and the inner reveals. I'm choosing to fill to make things look cleaner and better to the eye.

    I'm going to do the filling myself to save money and the fitter suggested 'Fine Fill' - but mentioned there was a risk of hairline cracking (which i accept).

    I wondered if there was a better, more suited alternative for this type of fill - i.e. between plasterboard and UPVC (expect it to be approx between a 10mm gap - but that's a guess).

    Thanks.
     
  2. Astramax

    Astramax Super Member

    Plaster board, filler and upvc will crack, not might ......always will, best use trim!
     
    KIAB likes this.
  3. Plec

    Plec Member

    Thanks for the reply.

    You're not my builder are you? :) - he's given me, quite rightly, the same warning about hairline cracks. (i think he will lay in wait to tell me 'he told me so!' after the renovation is completed.) But, he did say they would be hairline...

    Problem is that my wife won't entertain the trim - it was that or aluminium windows and the renovation costs were already causing my wallet to require resuscitation. So filler compromise it was/is...

    My theory (rightly or wrongly) is that I'm used to hairline cracks around my existing windows - and hardly notice them - but we both really notice the trim. Plus, when i decorate they get tarted up, filled and look smooth for a few years. (If this requires a bit more attention around the windows every couple of years i wouldn't mind.)

    I figured I would experience similar cracking and was hoping that a suitable filler - a slightly forgiving one (not caulk) - would help limit the severity of the cracking?

    *Unless you're implying it will crack severely - which would be a different matter...
     
  4. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Super Member

    Pretty sure my window fitters used caulk in the small gaps between frame and wall, they left the caulk slightly depressed (not sad) so that when I have the room skimmed there's something for the plaster to key into.
     
  5. Plec

    Plec Member

    Ahh, good tip - i'll suggest to my builder, thanks.

    So a shallow fill (slightly depressed :)) of caulk with a skim of plaster/Fine Fill over the top?

    Sounds logical to me - the uninitiated - thanks.
     
  6. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Super Member

    In my case the plaster is going over the whole wall including the window recesses so it will get good adhesion, probably with that plastering mesh tape stuff.

    If you're think of putting plaster over the caulk only, probably better to look at a flexible filler or smooth the caulk flush with the existing wall surface.
     
  7. Plec

    Plec Member

    Good point - missed that.

    Would probably need to be the former as i expect the gap to be reasonably wide - not sure if caulk on it's own would smooth out without getting depressed (which would make me sad ;)). But i'm unsure about this?...
     
  8. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Super Member

    If its deep then fill the worst with caulk or something suitable and let it go off, then caulk over the top of that.

    If its wide, well how wide? A jolly big gap might be best first filled with expanding foam?
     
    Plec likes this.
  9. Plec

    Plec Member

    I'm anticipating 10mm minimum - would that be too small for foam?

    Apologies for all the questions.
     
  10. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Super Member

    Would be OK I think if applied delicately and minimally so it doesn't expand beyond the surface and protrude.
     
    Plec likes this.
  11. Plec

    Plec Member

    Thanks, Dr Bodgit, I'll suggest this to the fitter.

    I may have to practice on some bricks outside - I've never used foam. But if it were to work it would save a lot of time on fiddly filling - with only needing a thin skim over the top.
     
  12. Mr Rusty

    Mr Rusty Screwfix Select

    The problem you have is that the coefficient of expansion of uPVC is around 0.06 - 0.08mm/m/deg C, so a window 1m wide will expand/contract about 2- 2.5mm between summer and winter (30 degree range) - it's why on a very hot day upvc windows and doors often start sticking. That expansion has to be accommodated - if you just have a hard joint it will crack forever.
     
    KIAB, Astramax and Plec like this.
  13. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    Plec likes this.
  14. Plec

    Plec Member

    Blimey - i didn't realise the thermal expansion would be so great - thanks for the data.

    Thanks again, KIAB (you've helped me before on a previous/related thread), that may be the ideal compromise. On reading the tech data on paper it seems the perfect compromise.
     
  15. Plec

    Plec Member

    EDIT: Would i be best using a combination of Dr Bodgit's foam first - applying an underlying layer of foam to fill most of the depth and then applying a thin Hybriflex fill over the top?
     
  16. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    I do wish our host would stock the Everbuild products like Everbuild Hybriflex 25LM & others.

    Great thing with Hybriflex 25LM it's permanently flexible, has up to 25% movement accommodation which is useful on frames, resistant to temperature extremes -40°C to
    +150°C, & can be used inside & outside.
     
    Dr Bodgit, Plec and BMC2000 like this.
  17. BMC2000

    BMC2000 Screwfix Select

    Plec and KIAB like this.
  18. Plec

    Plec Member

    Thanks - is paint adherence a problem?

    Really appreciate the extra info - sounds an ideal solution.

    Does it dry and then sand - or does it need to be applied like silicon and then smoothed carefully with a finger/sponge or special dedicated tool that i know not? :)
     
  19. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    Alison P likes this.
  20. Mr Rusty

    Mr Rusty Screwfix Select

    It's mitigated to some extent because your house internal temp prob doesn't vary in temperature by 30 degrees, so the internal temp helps keep the frame warmer in winter and cooler in summer which helps to limit expansion/contraction, but uPVC has prob the largest expansion range of any building material. Its also why plastic gutters "creep" and pop their joints.
     

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
    Dismiss Notice