Best method of lining walls for kitchen wall cabinets

Discussion in 'Kitchen Fitters' Talk' started by aarondown, Nov 3, 2014.

  1. aarondown

    aarondown New Member

    Hi there,

    We have an existing single skin brick extension that houses our kitchen.
    Both the kitchen units and the roof are very tired and we are taking the opportunity to extend the extension when we replace the kitchen.
    Amazingly the existing walls have NO insulation (built in the 80s) and due to the position of two existing openings we don't have the room to lose the width required to build a cavity. The existing walls are rendered externally and they appear in great condition, i.e. no cracks internally or externally.
    Therefore, my proposal is to line the walls with Celotex and use frame fixings to fix timber battens on top of the Celotex and through to the brick wall. I've used this method before to convert my Dad's single skin garage into a studio and it worked fine. (see attached Celotex sheet used at the time)
    My only concern is whether this wall build-up is going to take the weight of new kitchen wall cabinets, 900mm high ones at that. I propose to use the continuous strip hanging rails to spread the load but wonder whether I need to introduce a 150mm strip or full wall lining of ply over the timber battens in addition to the p/board.
    Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
     

    Attached Files:

  2. chippie244

    chippie244 Super Member

    If the battens are resting on the floor, securely fixed to the wall, are around 20mm thick and your strip rails are fixed to them then this should be fine.
     
    aarondown likes this.
  3. Slightly surprised at Celotex's recommendations; they suggest over-battening to hold the insulation in place and then your choice of lining on top, fixed to these battens. I'd have thought that if you used, say, orn'ary p'board you'd risk having condensation forming in the voids between the battens?

    Unless, I guess, you use foil-backed p'board?

    Anyways, an alternative - possibly easier - would be to fit thermal laminate board (p'board with insulation already backed on to it) straight to the wall, using adhesive and the odd mechanical fixing. Your wall-rails would then be drilled and plugged right through this into the wall. Strong, and it would also ensure the sheets won't come down...

    A 45mm thick sheet (inclusive) would give adequate insulation, and no loss of space due to battens being required either.
     
  4. aarondown

    aarondown New Member

    Devil's Advocate;
    Admittedly Celotex have since changed their advice but only a year ago. I'm not sure why you would have condensation form in the voids between the battens as the void is the same temperature as the kitchen, i.e. it's on the warm side of the insulation. We did my Dad's studio with this method 2 years ago and there's not a drop of condensation and he has a small tubular heater on for half hour a day. Anyway, I digress.

    My concern with the insulated plasterboard is that then I will have to use long frame fixings to mount the hanging rail which will be a lot harder to fix level then fixing into timber battens that are only 12.5mm away. I would also be concerned about the bending pressure on the fixings in the 45mm board zone. Battens do also give me some service void to run new sockets etc.
     
  5. In practice, you will almost certainly be fine with the 'void'. Bear in mind that p'board is porous to moisture, and when that moisture-laden air reaches a colder surface (and it will be a bit colder) it'll condense out. Having said that, very possibly it'll be to no great effect.

    Is it recommended to use foil-backed p'board for this kind of job?

    By all means use the system you are more comfortable with.
     

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
    Dismiss Notice