blocking internal doors

Q1:Yes.
Q2: No

Stick to blockwork.

And use a few wall ties to tie it in to the exsisting brick work.

 

You might need one row of bricks to finish off after last course of blocks, easier than cutting thin slithers of blocks.

 

Wha's the depth between top of door frame & ceiling, I would usually use a 100x65mm concrete lintel, siting on engineering brick padstones, (old school), but occcasionally a Catnic CN102 Internal Solid Wall Lintel Extra Light Duty 1200mm, if there is only one course of blockwork over a standard doorway opening.


http://www.builditshop.co.uk/acatalog/Catnic_Interior_Solid_Wall_Light_Duty_Lintels_CN102.html

 

How are going to support the brick work above the new opening while you fit the lintel ?

 

If the wall is not load bearing wouldn't be easier to just remove the wall between the old opening and new and just replace with a stud wall and platerboard ? This way you won't need the expense of a lintel and will be a lot quicker than laying blocks then plastering ?

 

I would try determining the size of the doors to be used and then the overall size of opeing taking into account the frame size allowing for an 1"? wider.

 

What blocks will you be using?

 

A few more details, build a stud frame & board it, skim it, much simpler.

 

I'm getting confused now.

If you putting in a doorway, I prefer a lintel & blockwork, as found out with stud frame, you can get cracking on the joints, even if taped.
If your not use to building & lintels,you'll find it's easier remove blockwork to ceiling & rebuild blockwork after doorframe is in.

Practice your blockwork on the old board up doorway.

 

You will likely find the exiting opening have just used a timber lintel to support the blockwork above, in effect it is only holding up about 4 block so no much in the way of loading.

Find out the width of the blocks used, possibly 4" but smaller widths may have been used.

I think if I were doing the job, would go for the blockwork infill, the lintel as K mentions wold be fine, but you may just want to use wood as you wont be able to get a fixing in the head for door lining, there are ways round this though.

Look at tie in in the blockwork too, brickwork is normally tied in at ever 3rd course, so every second block would be sufficient, wall starters would be a bit excessive so look at using screw in ties.

But would agree that its far easier to just remove all the blockwork above for the new opening.

 

1 block is equal to 3 bricks, so a tie for ever course of block. It may be best to lay a row of bricks or half cut blocks first to upset to bed joints, so the tie can be fixed into the actual block rather that the mortar joint.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/sabrefix-screw-ties-25-pack/31633

 

If you are inexperienced at building with blocks, you might like to try working with adhesive rather than mortar. I have used Everbuild adhesive previously for replacing a disintegrating brick wall under a window and achieved very good results. I'd not used the stuff previously, but the spec was for minimal heat loss through thermal bridging and it worked like a dream. It's as close to building with Lego as you can currently get.

 

Which Everbuild product did you use ?

 

I used Griptite. I did a test with some scrap block offcuts and gave it a full 24 hours to set, then tried to separate them and the block gave way before the adhesive did. Easy to use, if rather expensive for a big job.