Boiler Pump Overrun - Where does the Heat Go ?

Discussion in 'Plumbers' Talk' started by MikeM2, Aug 24, 2008.

  1. rome60

    rome60 New Member

    Ok thats your comment & opinion,but don"t make inane & ignorant comments about other peoples comments.
     
  2. MikeM2

    MikeM2 New Member

    Gentlemen, thank you for your advice. I am very impressed by this forum and the helpful replies that members(generally) make ! Somewhat saddened though by the (heated?) arguments that sometimes occur on differences of opinion.

    Thank you Simon@HWCH, you have enlightened me but I now wonder why boiler manufacturers don't elaborate their control systems as they appear to be so 'energy' concious these days?

    I am an electronics engineer by trade and more at home with wires than pipes (solder in-common though) hence
    my proposed electronic 'mods' which I could easily do. The cost is trivial - a relay and a few components
    with a few wires for connection.

    I was curious when I read that a Y-plan system does not need such a relief valve because I assume, the heat
    has somewhere to go in such a system ? I also (correctly) deduced that the reason for pump overun was to reduce the temperature (and the possibility of 'boiling' and damage) in the heat exchanger. The heat has to 'go somewhere' (hence my question) and I was just hoping to use it. Some members, I note, have proposed heated towel rails which again requires more 'pipes' but does at least give benefit.

    Just to re-iterate my cunning little scheme would monitor the demand signal and after it was removed (HW and/or Heating up to temperature) open the H/W motorized valve to provide a useful path for the excess boiler heat. Normally this would cause the Demand signal to to re-appear so that would have to be interlocked out.

    When the pump overun ceased (boiler heat exchanger heat dissipated) the system would revert to normal operation.

    I am now intrigued and believe this will work - in fact I am going to 'give it a go' when my new boiler is
    installed. I will however ask my installer to plumb in the relief valve - as he wisely suggested ! I will let you all know how it goes - thanks again for your help.

    P.S The question I made has now put 'worries' in my mind as to the choice of boilers ? My plumber said that he had never had any problems with Worcester products and said he had one in hs own home !
     
  3. ripitout

    ripitout New Member

    theres a couple of problems with your cunning wiring mods,



    [1] if the system was running ch on,hw on and the
    cylinder stat was satisfied, and then demand was stopped from the programmer, and then your gizmo kicks in there would be a period of about 7-10 seconds before the hw valve is fully open,this would trip the boiler oh stat.

    [2]any homemade wiring mods will void your guarantee.
     
  4. Captain Leaky

    Captain Leaky New Member

    Be careful, you could easily end up with a seriously f*** boiler!
     
  5. MikeM2

    MikeM2 New Member

    These sound like serious 'snags' and I will heed the advice of my betters and NOT do this !

    Again, thanks for all your good advice. And I thought electronics was hard work !
     
  6. ripitout

    ripitout New Member

    Again, thanks for all your good advice. And I thought electronics was hard work !
    <u>_________________________________</u>

    TFFT!.....we got there in the end.
     

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