Hi all; I've got a glass top coffee table which is bonded onto a central stainless steel disc The glass has come away from the fixing, not broken, just cleanly lifted from the metal disc Got a glass shop near me that I've used and the guy really knows his stuff. He does do UV glass bonding but didn't want to attempt to repair my table for a couple of reasons; Said that the glass has come away probably due to a fault with the stainless disc, either not completely flat and smooth or contaminated during the process The other problem is that you can't clean the old glue off the stainless disc and you can't apply new glue to old I was wondering about the various glass bonds that you can buy and are they likely to work It's impossible I think to know if there is any glue on either the glass or the stainless disc as it dries totally clear and you can't see or feel any build up Have any of you had experience with a similar product Thanks for reading
I would think that you could sand down glass and disc with wet and dry Surley glue is clear and would make sanded area clear again once applied
Dave - clear sili. Use 'Low Modulus' 'Neutral cure' which takes longer to set but has much better adhesion and finishes more shiny. Neutral cure is - I understand, alcohol-based so has little smell. It takes longer to set (leave it for a few days) but is a much better adhesive than the acetoxi type. Low modulus accommodates more movement - which you probably won't need in your case - but it sticks better too, I understand. Sili - easy to use, strong, fills gaps, will finish well. How to apply? I suspect by placing a neat blob in the middle of the disc and then pressing the glass down firmly on it - this way it'll spread out from the centre and expel any air bubbles that could otherwise show up. Hold steady, and use a round former to wipe a neat edge around the perimeter. (The two tram-lines formed either side of the 'wipe' can be peeled off neatly after it's started to cure, but before it's fully set. (Wow - Google is awesome...) Anyways, how big is this metal disc?
Thanks chaps for the answers I was also thinking about sanding down the metal disc with wet and dry and finishing with a really high grade to polish the metal, leaving it completely smooth and no glue residue Any glue on the glass I'm sure can be removed with a blade The guy in the glass shop is really helpful with advice and ideas and said although you cant see or feel the original glue, it will be there and can interfere with any further bonding attempts I guess though he is also thinking that if he attempts repair, it then needs to come with some guarantee of success which he is not confident with - fair enough really Not thought of the clear sili DA - it is clear but the stuff I have used and seen does have a very, very slightly cloudy appearance to it when dry. I think this would be noticeable through the glass top Might try cleaning the stainless disc and glass, then try the glass glue. Says will bond glass to glass or metal, dries totally clear Glass top is 450mm and stainless disc is 55mm diameter Table is currently in the loft awaiting repair (been there some time , so the wife has reminded me) Thanks guys, will report back once completed (just don't hold your breath) !
Thanks Sean but my local landfill is just fine as it is , even without the addition of my table In fact, landfill is being strongly discouraged with the 2 council tips near to me doing a roaring trade in recyclables Almost every other month a new recycling bin appears as a new renewable opportunity becomes available (financially viable is another discussion but it makes the council and householders feel good anyway) Plus my table is too nice to dump - i'm gonna give a repair a go......sit the mother in law down, then place a nice large mug of hot tea on the table
A word about silicone. The good thing with it, is that if it doesn't work or look good, it's not too difficult to clean up and try something else. Also, not sure if low modulus would be perfect, as it will be more flexible and may encourage disconnection. Also, with the clarity, less is more. So a thin layer(which would be what is required) would be more transparent. Mr. HandyAndy - Really
A 55mm disc ain't big, Dave. You need to get it right . As Mr Ha says, the thinner the layer with sili the better, but that would be the case if you apply a blob in t'middle and then press down the glass firmly to exclude all air. Good quality clear sili will be just that - clear. In any case, what you'll be seeing is the metal disc, not the actual sili... I suspect you are not convinced by my suggestion - and I can't blame you. However, every other adhesive is likely going to be a 'super-glue' (cyanoacrylate) type adhesive which will certainly be strong, but will just 'give' if it decides to fail... Also, will it be gap-filling to any extent, or will it rely on perfectly flat surfaces? Good quality sili (neutral cure) is really tough stuff and bonds well too. And it ain't gonna just give - I don't think. It'll show signs of peeling/tearing when pushed to its extreme first. I think...
Awkward one, Stixall crystal clear in my experience is very very clear and sticks absolutely anything to anything. Is is a proper expensive table or a repair it if you can job?
Hi goldenboy and thanks for the info re Stixall, will have to look into it Table not expensive, just fits in with the room and we like it plus, we have another one that matches (this one is still usable) As you say it's really a repair if you can job but me being me, don't like being beaten and scrapping things when you can still see some life left in them Thanks again and will let you know how I get on (although may be some weeks away)
You really should be using something like the manufacturer might of used. I know with glass bonded sinks the normal adhesive used during manufacture would be a structural Acrylic such as this: https://www.permabond.com/products/structural-acrylic/.
I know this is much later than the previous conversations, however I've just had the same problem during Christmas celebrations when one of the table tops was knocked off. The table has two round tops of glass bonded to two steel topped swiveling legs and opens up to twice the size. After trying "super glue" without success I then used LOCTITE EXTREME EPOXY purchase from Wilko for £6 and SUCCESS! All I did was follow the instructions.
Sorry, fizzy2, after reassembling the table and checked next day unfortunately the epoxy didn't hold. It isn't mirror glue it's 2 part epoxy. Maybe I didn't give it long enough under pressure or time to cure. I'll continue experimenting any post any updates. Season's Greetings.
Eventually found the solution. Genuine JB Weld Clear Glue Quick-Setting Epoxy Ceramic Metal Glass Plastic Wood available from eBay cost: £6.79. First attempt failed because I used too much. Second attempt successful, however i made an error in positioning the glass to metal and the table jammed when trying to close it. It rook quite a lot of force to separate the glass from the (metal) leg. Repositioned leg and glass top and again was successful. The only advice be sparing when applying the 2 part epoxy and mix it on the surface prior to joining. It set very quickly and was reassembled within a couple of hours. Good luck with your repair.
Don’t overthink this one. I recently had to do the same repair to a clients dining table. Brand new but he had left it on its side in a damp shed and the bonds between glass and the metal disc had failed. So long as the glass is sat flat on the discs it’s weight will hold it there and all you’re really trying to do is stop it sliding around. Any clear silicone will do the job. Big dollop in the centre, try and make sure there are no bubbles then press down firmly, position and leave to cure. You could even use double sided clear gel tape. Gorilla brand is good. If the glass needs to be held vertically then I wouldn’t even attempt the repair but for any flat application it’s fine.
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