Hi all. I have just painted several small wooden items with oil based undercoat and satinwood. I will be transporting them soon and would like to bubblewrap them to protect them on their journey. All the items will be dry when wrapped (even I'm not that silly ) but they won't be cured? Will that be okay? They will have been dry for about a week. Might sound a daft question but I'd rather sound daft than ruin all my hard work and have to start again . Thanks all.
No cg I've done a grand job they look the biz. For a beginner . Researching all the different paints and forums took longer than it did to do the work! I get all confused think some of it will be trial and error and personal preference. Grabbing the bargains from the auctions is the best bit. Just gotta sell it all now lol that's the hard bit.
Thanks . Me too! I've just spent £300 on tools and paints etc. And I have a blister but it still beats having a proper job though
Ooh good I've got before pics too. You have to wait til I've done my stencils though that's tomorrows job. Bet its harder than it looks . watch this space
Hmm, love to see this too. You are right to be cautious of wrapping them - some paints can take an age to lose their tackiness. The worst culprit I've found is, surprisingly, water-based Satinwood, and I've read of similar problems from others with this stuff. Ok, it 'dries' very quickly - much faster than solvent paint - but you chust try placing anything remotely heavy on it even weeks afterwards and it'll stick like a sticky thing. A 'mare. You should be ok, and hopefully the delivery times will be short - around 2 or 3 days? So a short contact period. Obviously leave it to the last moment before wrapping them, and I'd expect the buyer to unwrap the items on arrival anyway. Very best of luck
Ahhhh thanks devils advocate. Love that profile name . Interesting what you said about the water based since it dries so quick. So objects still stick to water based same as oil? A week later? I'm so new at all this. It seems oil versus water is very debatable. Curing? What's the difference with oil curing and water based curing? Why are objects still sticking to your water based paint weeks later? My inexperienced gut feeling is saying use oil based and be patient. The aim is to do a good job that I can be proud of and sell items that will last. I want results!!! But I don't want to be naieve, coz in the near future I do actually need to make a living. I always hated tents wouldn't want to end up living in one
P.s does paint sweat? If you suffocate it with bubblewrap? I have read the posts and answers from other forums of a few nerds who lost me past three sentences. Oxy this oxy that. Long complicated posts . But its gonna be OK yeah ??? Course it is! Its all good.
Hee hee . I think most decorating pros would rate solvent paints more highly that solvent-free (water based). Certainly they are more durable, easier to apply (although more work to clean up), and will usually dry to give a smoother finish too. Solvent-free has the benefit of being more pleasant to be around, dries quickly, but that's about it. Oh yes - if it's brilliant white, then solvent-free will remain white whereas oil-based will almost certainly 'yellow' in time. Solvent-free will almost certainly require more coats - it dries pretty thin, so its covering power is less. It also tends to leave more brush marks, so you should use synthetic brushes with fine bristles I believe. It also can cause problems through drying too quickly, leaving drag marks in the paint (I understand there are products you can add to provide more 'flow'). So, overall, I reckon you are best off with oil-based as you are using. Yes, the stickiness... A complete mystery, but a known issue with solvent-free. It dries quickly, you can touch the surface, but if you leave a solid object (a vase, or even a coaster) on a flat surface, it's a sod to remove. I've had to leave flat horizontal surfaces such a unit tops, shelves, etc. to 'dry' for at least 3 weeks and then I usually spray it with furniture polish to make it non-stick! Not an issue for most surfaces, tho', as you don;t tend to have heavy solid objects placed against them.
Why not try a test piece? Give it whatever time you'd normally give the paint to dry - 3 or 4 days? - and then wrap it tightly in bubblewrap for 3-4 days too, to replicate a typical delivery time. Then cross you fingers as you unwrap. (Actually, that's quite difficult.)
Just a thought but perhaps you could try wrapping them first in non stick baking parchment to stop the plastic sticking, as DA says best to do a trial first.
That's a good idea devil. I'm trying it out on a keybox. But its such a cute box. I only buy things I love. I could easily part with it though
He is . But your grammer sux... (Er, it's "You're a genius..." Hey, you gotta get this right if you're going into business...)