Hi folks, I would like to bounce my idea off you more experienced and professional folks to see if it makes sense or if my lack of knowledge has given me the wrong ideas. I want to build a wall to wall, floor to ceiling wardrobe at one end of my sons room. My plan is to build the shelves and hanging spaces along the wall, and then install sliding shaker doors in-front of it all. The space is 2550mm wide, 2370 high and I plan to go about 600 deep. I've been researching different materials and see a lot of people using MFC for building the cabinets, the main reason seems to be that it's already finished and it's cheap. I've also been looking at 12mm beech plywood, which seems to be a stronger material, and is actually cheaper per sqm. I would want to fix things together with pocket hole joints. My plan at the moment is to remove the skirting board around the area, and make a 'box' inside the whole space with whichever material turns out to be the best, fixing to the walls, ceiling and floor. At least then I can make sure it's all square and I have something to attach all the internal components to. Is that a logical approach to it? Cheers
I can't see anything wrong with that in principle, though 18mm think might be better as you've got a deep shelf distance... however, something to think about for the future... Is there any possibility that you might want to lift the floorboards under there, for possible central heating or electric work. If so best to get that done first, or incorporate a way of getting the floorboards up. The way I did something similar was to have the wall units ending a suitable height above the floor. Bear in mind I'm only DIY, not trade, so don't rely on my advice alone! Regards, Cando
The only things I would suggest is 18mm ply and rethinking the sliding doors. at nearly 2.4m tall in a shaker style, getting the proportions and strength right is going to be a bit tricky. Plus if you boy is anything like mine they will either be off the track or get jammed. If would make a face frame up and have two rows of doors; top row 1/3 height, below it 2/3 height. This way all the stuff that isn't used frequently can be out of sight at the top. The face frame can then be fixed to the edge of you ply to hide the unfinished edge. Something like this or this
I don't take out skirtings and such for these jobs. I make the boxes small enough to fit the space and wedge and glue. So measurements are from skirting to skirting, and the face frame conceals the gaps. For this size cabinet I would make 4 units each laid out for their intended usage i.e. for hanging clothes, shoe boxes,drawers and shelves and so on. Then a face frame in front of it all with hinged doors. As in the photos above. But for that kind of working you will need a range of tools etc. Mostly I use MDF. It pays off in the face frame and doors, as it holds its shape well. A decent timber merchant could cut and deliver all the main sections for you.
With face frames, I find timber works better than MDF as hinges would bave to fixed to the cut edge and have a tendency to work loose. The other thing is to remember to leave a gap behind the wardrobe to allow air to circulate.
That's some really impressive work sospan! I'm a humble novice and honestly think I would attempt something like that and make an awful mess of it. Perhaps one day once I have some smaller projects under my belt.
Great point about the floor! It's currently bouncy, creaky **** chip board that's been butchered for pipework and such.
indeed for the face frames i trim the edges with parting beading, which gives a feature and provides a hold for screws.
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