Burglar Alarm not working

Discussion in 'Electricians' Talk' started by TONITOPSON, Nov 19, 2014.

  1. Teki

    Teki Screwfix Select

    The walk test should hopefully help you identify which zone/sensor isn't operating correctly.
     
    TONITOPSON likes this.
  2. Smokey

    Smokey Active Member

    I doubt legality of HA's position, as this would be classed a fixture and therefore is responsibility of the Landlord.
    Wonder if they view other electrical fittings as a gift, such as smoke alarms, which are mandatory in a New Build, but not normally in existing dwellings they may own unless newish stock.
    Most HA's fit smoke/co into existing stock as a matter of policy, and take on responsibility for maintaining/ renewing as necessary.
    Other tenants not as able as you, will likely just end up with non working burglar alarms over time, with your HA as their Landlord:(:(
     
  3. TONITOPSON

    TONITOPSON New Member

    Hi guys,
    I have tried the walk test and I have noticed the 4 sensors : lounge, kitchen, landing and entrance are all working because when you enter the zone their go on and when you exit they go off but there is a 5th light that still blink when I set the alarm and I can`t link it to any other zone. Is there anything that could explain it please ? I can`t thank you enough for your advices and support. Stay blessed.
     
  4. Rulland

    Rulland Screwfix Select

    If there are no more PIR's, four in all, there must be another device, Is the one that blinks number one on the keypad?, usually zone one will be the entry/exit door, conventially!, I still think the front door could be to blame!.

    Can you confirm that a contact is on the front door?, like one of these.

    [​IMG][​IMG]
     
  5. TONITOPSON

    TONITOPSON New Member

    Morning Rulland, Hope you enjoyed your weekend. Sorry I`ve been disturbing you guys with my troubles. Yes a contact is on the front. Actually yes I got two of the devices you pictured. One on front and one at back. But how do I find out which one is not working ? Thanks once more guys.
     
  6. Rulland

    Rulland Screwfix Select

    Morning, working all weekend, heh ho, sometimes you can hear a little faint 'click' when you open and close the door, or use a magnet on the contact, failing that you've got to start taking stuff apart, I would imagine that the two contacts are in series if neither door causes a chime in walktest, so either door can be used as the entry/exit route.
    Richard.
     
  7. TONITOPSON

    TONITOPSON New Member

    Sorry but can you be simpler for the thickhead I am ? I got those two devices at both front and back. But don`t know how to find out which one is working or not. how can I operate a walk test for them ? I know the PIRs but not for these devices. Thanks for your help
     
  8. Rulland

    Rulland Screwfix Select

    Exactly the same, walk in front of PIR, the system will chime, open a door, it should chime, BUT if both doors are on one zone, and one door contact has failed then in affect BOTH doors will not be working as far as the control panel sees it.
    That's why I asked if you could possibly hear a very faint 'click' from either door contact reed switch, 'cos this could narrow the problem down to one door or the other before you have to start taking them apart.
     
  9. TONITOPSON

    TONITOPSON New Member

    I heard no faint click and I`m lost. I`ve done the walk test and the PIR but as for the devices on the doors, I just could not hear any faint click . Just don`t know how to sort this trouble without being forced to pay dear for an electrician
     
  10. Lectrician

    Lectrician Screwfix Select

    Do both doors cause the chime? If so, pointless walk testing them, as they're working.

    When you walk test, which LEDs light? When you try to set, which LEDs light?

    Sounds like a zone is staying open, or has never been shorted out in panel,Mir not used.

    A photo inside the end station would confirm which zones are in use. If you can turn the power off to the main panel, whip the cover off. Alarm will sound, so enter code to silence. Then photograph inside, post it here.
     
    TONITOPSON likes this.
  11. joinerjohn1

    joinerjohn1 Screwfix Select

    I do feel, that whilst this burglar alarm isn't working, the OP could appraise us of his address (and times when he'll be at work, or out of an evening) ;););) (just so some of us could pop round and check it for him,, tha' knerrs) :p:p:p
     
  12. JOMEL

    JOMEL Screwfix Select

    Hi There,

    I have a Veritas 8C fitted myself.
    Electronics is my favourite pastime and was my living.

    A walk test would be a good thing to do.
    But I wonder if its been set into PART SET mode rather that FULL SET
    If you can download the manual it would be a great help.
    The front inside page covers all the tests you will need.

    Can I stress if you TEST a mode , make a list of what's been tested so you don't
    have to rely on memory.

    As you get a beep from the door it does suggest the system seems to be functioning.
    I can copy the handbook if you need.
    But I think someone said there is an on line version.

    Keep us informed

    Johnny M
     
    TONITOPSON likes this.
  13. TONITOPSON

    TONITOPSON New Member

    Hi Lectrician,
     
  14. TONITOPSON

    TONITOPSON New Member

    I tried to send pictures from the panel It won`t let me do it saying the file is too big. Can you tell me how to do it ?
     
  15. TONITOPSON

    TONITOPSON New Member

    Guys thanks for all your advices but my problem is still the same. Let me explain what I found out so far. when I set my alarm, I still have one light on. I have been able to identify the sensors lights, the door chime lights but can`t figure the last light
     
  16. Rulland

    Rulland Screwfix Select

    Which light is it then?.
     
  17. TONITOPSON

    TONITOPSON New Member

    It`s light number 7 which won`t go off. I can`t figure what it is linked to. I factory reset it in vain. The light is still on.
     
  18. Lectrician

    Lectrician Screwfix Select

    Factory reset wasn't a good plan. Are any cables connected to Z7 in the panel. Physically look, as I said previously.

    If a photo is too big, resize it!
     
    TONITOPSON likes this.
  19. Rulland

    Rulland Screwfix Select

    Ok so zone number 7 is continually active if the light is :
    A On all the time during a walk test.
    B On and won't go off when attempting to set the alarm.
    Yes?.
    Is there a panic button hidden away somewhere?, in a bedroom for example, that has been pushed by a chillie possibly?.

    The other problem you may have now, after defaulting the panel, is, if the doors aren't on zone 1, the default programming for which is entry/exit, then the system could now see them as 'intruder', and will attempt to go straight off when you open a door.
    Now whilst we're on, IF the engineer code is 'locked', you will not be able to reprogram any parameters, so now you have potentially two faults with the system, and possibly no way of correcting the programming issue.
    Oh dear...:)
    NEVER default a system unless you understand the programming side etc.
     
    TONITOPSON likes this.
  20. FatHands

    FatHands Well-Known Member

    Morning, Sorry if i've missed this, but its worth bearing in mind that PIR's can be set not to light the L.E.D when active.
     
    TONITOPSON likes this.

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