We all know about the permitted routes for cables (i.e. 150mm from top or 150mm from corner and horizontal and vertical from an accessory such as a light switch) BUT what if the accessory is something like an extractor hood or when a cable is fed to an under cabinet light say in a kitchen - what do the "zones" look like then? Steve
what do the "zones" look like then? Same rules apply so the horizontal and vertical bands are as wide and tall as the cooker hood?
so the horizontal and vertical bands are as wide and tall as the cooker hood? Hahahha... nice one Generaly .. If there is a socket / spur feeding the hood, then 'horizontal and vertical bands' would be in relation to the socket / spur But.. its a darn good point, I cant recall any reason as to why it cant be applied to the hood dimensions
And maybe down through hob to floor..what happens if it is horizontally wired and people forget this window? and drill in the window say between bottom of extractor and surface of hob etc?
and drill in the window say between bottom of extractor and surface of hob etc? Peeps drilling holes without testing for cables / pipes !! What can you do.
X... This is the problem. Apply this now to the cabinet down lights. There are tons of times you see this. Cable emerges out the plaster just underneath the bottom of the wall unit and (if you're lucky) is clipped along to the light fitting - but where are the routes for that cable? - horizontal and vertical from the point the cable emerges from the plaster the "thickness" of the cable? I have "managed" to eliminate this problem on most of the install I am doing at the moment by using the 150mm in the corner but I can't do that in 2 or 3 other locations in the kitchen - any ideas?
A method I have used to get arround this issue... is to fit a fcu or lighting socket for the lighting above the wall unit.. (using safe zone vert or horz runs) then run the cable directly down behind the cabinet into the lamp.
dont worry too much about it if you have to stray, keep it minimal and dont go anywhare stupid, quite often in kitchens they will be tiled over, likley to get a nail? You decide Some people will add boxes with blanking plates on to create a zone. Bit odd? You can generally tell where something is likley to get nailed, but really with joe public anything goes and anywhare is fair game to get a nail even in so called safe zones. Funny thing its only us sparks who know what a safe zone is or where one is meaning they mean jack ** to joe public armed with has new clock and hammer [Edited by: admin8]
Thanks for the ideas. I did think of the fcu to "create" routes - I was going to add a flex outlet plate under the cabinet - but I didn't think of the idea of placing it above the wall cabinets - like that one, good call! Think the points on only sparks knowing about the zones is a fair comment - guess an email to the architect explaining about them is called for so when the kitchen fitter comes in and drills through my cable I can charge the money to fix it
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