Hi All, I'm shortly planning to make some wiring modifications in the hallway of our house while the ceiling is down. I will have all of this checked before ceilings go back up by my electrician, but I was hoping a few sparks could validate what I'm doing so I don't have to do it more than once! Firstly, the current setup is as follows: - 1970s council house, so there is an octopus metal junction box (many cables, all downstairs lighting!) running the lighting circuits. Cable runs in 1.5mm T&E old colours on a 6A breaker. Two pendant drops in hallway each on their own wiring back to octopus box. - One (!) hallway socket on its own MCB 16A surface mounted (clearly a cheap *** retrofit) - Currently the kitchen LEDs are causing a trip on the MCB for the downstairs lights which I'm informed is because I need a Class C, not Class B MCB. The Proposed Plan: Lighting: Run 2xnew lights from the octopus box (Start at source!) to front and back of house to run two outside lights in 1.0mm T&E (makes fitting easier at the light). Plan to use LED low energy light fittings. Install new switch Replace the current pendants with 2x ECOLED Zep1 6W LED Downlighters by looping through the circuit. Join the existing wires from the octopus box onto these new downlighters via a Hager/Ashley No Maintenance Junction box. Run from junction box in 1.0T&E, looping between the downlights Run 1x new run from the junction box to three new pendant drops, to run 3x 18w low energy bulbs. 1.0T&E again, standard ceiling roses. Install new switch. Sockets: Lack of sockets in hallway is a bit stupid. Plan to run 2.5mm T&E radial socket circuit with four sockets running off of it. Current cable appears to be 1.5mm flex or T&E, I've not taken it apart yet so uncertain. Bring the cable to the CU ready for connection. All of the above will either be chased in and capped, or run in the ceiling space. Where not existing, swap the circuits to RCBOs (only socket circuit is RCD protected at the moment). Sparky will: Verify he is happy with lighting circuitry, that I've installed safely and to code Hook up new socket circuit for hallway (I'm aware this is Part P notifiable and I am not allowed to do it) and verify Install RCBOs Is there anything in there that concerns anyone? I believe I've accounted for Regs, but very willing to listen if there is anything I've missed! Thanks
Why would I/he rip out a perfectly good lighting circuit, involving destroying large parts of the house to get the wires through?
If the wire is the original from the 70s I would be incline to change it all aswell, seems pointless putting all that new stuff on old wire.
Nothing much wrong with 70's wiring except that there might not be an earthing conductor. Now if it was 50's/60's rubber insulated cables it would be a different matter.
Would it not have started to go brittle after 40+ years I was under the impression that you should consider rewires after 30/35 years.
I have checked the condition of the existing cabling (not completely stupid!) and it is 1.5mm T&E in excellent condition. My sparky installed some down lights about four months ago in the kitchen and he had no concerns. It's running a 16th regs consumer unit as well so not antiquated on that front and decent protection. The main lighting junction box was also in excellent condition.
Pheo, you have asked for comments from professionals and you are basically disagreeing with what we are telling you. There is really no justification for using a metal junction box from the 1970's to extend new branch circuits to new lighting points. This junction box is NOT maintenance free and should be removed. The sensible option is to rip it all out and start again. This is what a decent professional would do. You are taking down a ceiling, a golden opportunity to make wiring improvements and an electricians dream, no floor boards or carpets to lift and put back down, and plenty of access to all the wiring. My advice, rewire everything in the hall ceiling lighting whilst you have the opportunity to do it. If you are expecting your electrician to adopt your plan it is flawed immediately. This is why DIYer's are frowned upon in the trade. There is far more to wiring than running wires from a to b. So if you disagree with us feel free to proceed and break the wiring rules. With regards to your 16th edition fuse board the lighting circuit will need 30mA RCD protection if being modified so your option is to move the lighting circuit on to the RCD side or buy a 6A RCBO to replace the mcb, as you have recognised. As for your comments regarding Part P you CAN do it yourself if you notify building control before you do it. If your electrician is Part P registered then he will notify it for you. Do you know that Part P has been in force since January 2005? And ten years later it is still misunderstood.
. . .As UP and I have stated, golden opportunity and will make very little difference in the final ,Invoice, in fact, you will be saving a few quid and knowing its all to up to spec.
Its a fair point - I had somewhat forgotten about the fact that the existing junction box technically requires maintenance (even if it was spotless after 40 odd years - was somewhat surprised about that! I'll give the sparky a call and ask him what he thinks / get him to come round. What would you do these days to replace the octopus box? Large modern maintenance free junction box? RE Part P, my thought was that part P had changed: "The Building Regulations now define notifiable work more simply as the installation of a new circuit or consumer unit, or any addition or alteration to an existing circuit in a special location" http://electrical.theiet.org/wiring-matters/51/part-p-certification/index.cfm I believe I'm modifying and existing circuit so we need not panic. But I will get him to determine the right way to proceed.
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