Can I temporarily insulate a conservatory roof?

Discussion in 'Builders' Talk' started by tonynoarm, Nov 12, 2006.

  1. Hi Imp.

    I think the best solution is to forget screws...

    Use StixAll. Cut battens to length, make sure they are dry, clean the underside of the ali sections, stick 'em up.

    Use other lengths to keep them pressed up tight until the stuff sets. They won't come down again.

    Yes, I fully understand what Sean is saying - these roof bars weren't designed for this. However, these roofs are stronger than you think - imagine the wind pressure, for instance, they have to cope with.

    It is only my opinion, but provided quilt is used for insulation and lightweight PVC cladding for the covering, the roof should be just fine.

    Mind you, I'm not sure if the cladding itself might sag in between these 2 roof bars...? :eek:
     
  2. Sean_ork

    Sean_ork Screwfix Select

    I agree - they'll be designed to withstand an amount of weather related loading, so the roof will cope with an amount of snow on top (I would hope) - so you might well be able to hang another few hundred kilos off the inside of the roof - that'll be grand when there's no snow on the roof ......... so what happens when it snows ?

    I know folks will do these daft things anyway .........
     
  3. A few hundred kilos?! You ain't planning to visit there, are you?
     
  4. Sean_ork

    Sean_ork Screwfix Select

    you ****** cow ....
     
  5. OooooOOOOooohhh! Think I've found Sean's touchie point...:D.


    Me? It's the size of my dick. But if I keep that wee bit of info to myself I'll be fi....
     
  6. Sean_ork

    Sean_ork Screwfix Select

    have had a very long pub lunch Mr DA ? - I have no idea what you are waffling on about :rolleyes:
     
  7. impsince85

    impsince85 Member

    StixAll, can be bought from most places? Not heard of it before. Would I then screw/nail the second set of battens through the multifoil to the now stuck down battens? And the same again with the cladding?

    Sean_ork - looks like I'll be shovelling snow while it's still snowing then - a bit like what I'm doing with the kids toys at the moment :(

    DA when you say use other lengths to keep them uptight until the stuff sets...can you explain that please?
     
  8. Imp, Everbuild STIXALL is just one of many new adhesives that are quite superb products - I say that 'cos I've used it. They'll stick pretty much anything to anything. Easy to use too.

    So, I am confident it would easily stick your wooden battens to your ali roof rails, so negating the need for screws. Nifty, eh?

    While it sets, you need to be able to hold these battens snugly against your rails. That's why I suggested using further lengths to brace it from the floor - or from any item of furniture in that room.

    Basically, you cut your timbers to length, check which way they have a bend in them (they ain't gonna be perfectly straight...) and run a nice bead of adhesive along the concave side - that way they'll only need bracing in the bulging middle.

    That sounds easy. It might not be quite that simple. For instance, before it sets, the adhesive will be a bit slippery, so you may find yourself struggling with holding up a batten whilst trying to brace it with a length from the floor - it needs planning in advance.

    Anyways, that's the principle... (and it'll be hidden so doesn't have to be perfect...)

    Ok, the insulation quilt should, I understand, have room to expand on bath sides, so should ideally be positioned between two battens so's there's an small void either side. I personally wonder, though, just how much this matters...

    For instance, could you get away with gluing up your battens and then stapling the quilt to the underside, before then simply overlaying with cladding? Ie - the quilt will only be able to fully 'puff up' on its top side.

    Anyways, should you decide that you should have two layers of battens with the quilt in between, then only the top battens are actually glued - the second layer (if fitted) will be screwed through to the top layer - using 1.5" or 1.75" screws so's they don't go too far and come through to touch the ali.

    All that should be relatively straight-forward, though you need to also look at sealing against the walls, etc. (Eg - use tape to seal the quilt along there). A completely different issue could be, though, that the cladding might not be sturdy enough to be suspended by the spacings of your roof rails - with the heat, they might want to bow or sag a bit between them.

    I chust don't know. (But the manufacturers should have this spacing info...)
     
  9. Sean_ork

    Sean_ork Screwfix Select

    procrastination is the key ........
     
  10. Like being on here when I have one hundred more important things to do... :oops:
     
  11. Sean_ork

    Sean_ork Screwfix Select

    long enough for the kids to have grown up and moved out
     
  12. impsince85

    impsince85 Member

    Thank you DA - I thought that was what you meant but just wanted to clarify! Yes I have read you need the 25mm gap on either side for the multifoil, I'm also conscious that Gormac I think had problems with the staples popping back out after a couple of weeks - which isn't so much of a problem if you have another set of battens for it to sit between.

    I had thought about only to screw at the top, middle and end of the battens having glued the batten to the aluminium rail but would still need to check inside the rails to do that. I'm worried with the heat the glue may unstick and everything come tumbling down! But if that happened 3 screws aren't going to keep it up either. I can't wait to get this finished! And get my house back again!
     
  13. impsince85

    impsince85 Member

    I will end up in a straight jacket if I wait until then! :confused: Can't even get in their bedroom at the moment!
     
  14. impsince85

    impsince85 Member

    Here is a photo of the top of my roof on the outside, as you can see I can't get to the ends of the rails as it's shut off with pvc running all the way across, probably not helpful but just incase!
     

    Attached Files:

  15. Biochef

    Biochef Member

    Maybe you should forget about fitting to top runners and screw to the side ones it ain't all that much of a span so should be fine that way
    And More safer with loads on roof like six inches of snow like Sean- ork said
    When I replied to your first post I was also talking about side fixings I never though for one minute you were trying ti fix in to top ones :eek:
     
  16. impsince85

    impsince85 Member

    Sorry if I haven't made myself clear - I was going to batten all 4 sides AND the middle two rails to attach the multifoil and pvc cladding to - so glueing the battens in the middle should be ok as the sides (which will be screwed) will also be taking the weight?
     
    Biochef likes this.
  17. Biochef

    Biochef Member

    Job sounds a good one :);)
     
  18. Sean_ork

    Sean_ork Screwfix Select

    what's to stop you building up the roof from the outside ? - would adding another 140mm on top be an issue ?

    I mentioned previously about external insulation, seeing that image makes me think it's a better safer way to do this

    18mm OSB on top of the existing - 100mm PU/poly Insulation (Kingspan etc) - another 18mm OSB - waterproof covering

    so in the image below, the ''decking'' will be the bottom layer of OSB (ignore the VCL) then the insulation - then the top OSB - then the roofing material (EPDM) - I can't find a better image to illustrate, but the concept is to build up in layer - then cover with a waterproof covering - perhaps as per this link - along with some nice timber facias

    you will then have all the weight bearing down on the perimeter supports, using a few long fixings and gravity, rather than this magic glue DA is so fond of

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  19. Sean_ork

    Sean_ork Screwfix Select

    if you do go with my plan, please clean the bird poo off the poly before you start ;)
     

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