Can I temporarily insulate a conservatory roof?

just knock it down and build a timber framed extension - at least then you'll know for sure it won't collapse

I know that's not going to happen .......

 

Pfffft - collapse? Never. In fact the connie will be stronger than ever .

 

Yes I'll get to that once I've finished the roof!! Positive thinking and enthusiasm is what will get this project done

The floor is laminate and it looks to me like it's been layed straight on top of whatever the conservatory was built on, no underlay for sure either. That's why I thought about doing joists. I need another week off to get this done! No holiday left to book though

 

Are you not into football? The clue is in my username

If I had money I'd take you up on that offer!! I think I need the experience though, if I can do this I will think I can build a house

There is 1 light in here but you're right it will need more lighting and I'm no electrician so may have to make do with lots of lamps...

 

If I could and had the money I would build a proper extension!

 

On reflection, a simpler and stronger way to do the ceiling joists is to use 4x2 all around - ie: make the perimeter 'wallplate' in 4x2 as well. This will be heavier and more awkward to do - holding it in place for fixing could be an issue - but it does give a number of advantages afterwards;

It'll be the same height as the ceiling joists, so you'll be able to decide the best position for them as you fix them to the ali frame above the windows. Larger surface area gives a better gluing area too.

Then, you only need to cut the joists straight-ended (no notches) so's they fit neatly between the wallplate, and you fix them in place using these: http://www.screwfix.com/p/simpson-s...imber-mini-joist-hanger-46mm-pack-of-10/41472

These joist hangers are simply nailed into place on to the wallplate, and the joists dropped in - a couple of nails through the sides will stop them going anywhere.

When you decide on the 'height' of the wallplate, take into account the thickness of the cladding and especially whether you are also going to counter-batten first. Ie: you don't want the finished ceiling to be hanging down over the top of the window panes...

Plan where the fixing screws will be going through the ali frame, and make sure it's where it's a hollow section and nowhere near glass. Also make sure it's in a separate section so there's no risk of rainwater seeping through if it happens to have access to the channel where the top glazing panels go.

And chose screws that'll go in to the ali around a half inch.

Use a length of 4x2 cut to the ceiling height to act as a prop to hold one end of the wallplate up whilst you mark through the other end.

I think what I would do if working alone is to work out the 'drilling line' on the wallplate and drill a ~4mm hole through the wallplate timber towards one end. Pop a screw in there and twiddle it until the sharp tip is just protruding. Then place the far end on to your support timber and climb yer steps, lifting the 'screwed' end up. Get it in the right place, and tap the screw with a hammer - it'll leave a small mark in the ali frame.

Confirm it's in a good place, and drill your pilot hole - probably a 3mm in this. Lift it up again and screw through.

When you drive a screw into a pilot hole and it needs to cut its own thread, turn it as much as you can, and then back off a half turn. Drive it forward again and hopefully it'll go a quarter-turn further than last time, and back-off again. Repeat until it suddenly goes through and has a good grip. Don't bother at this stage to tighten it fully - you'll be removing it to add adhesive later.

With the first end screwed in place, go to the other end and repeat. Once you are confident you have the first wallplate horizontal and in the right place, remove it, run beads of adhesive along it, and replace, this time tightening down firmly.

Then you are free to drill through the screw in between - spaced every 400mm-ish should be ok. What I'd do is drill 3mm size first all the way through (including the ali) and then drill 4mm 'clearance' almost all the way through the timber but obviously not into the ali. Screw.

Obviously, if the 3mm hole in the ali is too loose for the chosen screw size - it 'strips' easily - then go down to 2mm or 2.5mm.

If you hold a drill bit up in front of the screws you'll be using, the drill should be roughly the thickness of the central screw 'shank' with the tips of the screw's thread clearly sticking out further.

Enjoy.

(Oh, if you don't fancy nailing these joist hangers into the timber - if it seems too harsh - then just use 1 to 1.5" screws.

Do you have a cordless drill for drilling and screwing? If not, might be worth investing in one - you should be able to pick up a bargain on eBay for, ooh, £30 - I got a brand new 18V Ryobi for something like that amount and it's superb for DIY.

 

you'd be surprised at how little extra you could build a proper extension for, or at least a properly engineered timber structure to replace the conservatory - at least then you'll be adding to the value of the house, rather than ......

google ''SIPS''

 

That is a long post DA!!

Sounds better to me though! My main issue is finding timber long enough for the 13ftish (3950mm) 4x2 wall plate and 2x1 counter battens!

Thank you again!

 

I'm sure it would I'm doing this on a non existent budget, just had a look on google, I don't think I'm up to taking my conservatory down just yet lol

 

Ooh and yes my drill is a cordless one

 

Not a problem. For the wallplate, you just fit them in two pieces; they don't need to join. Just make sure they are level with eachother.

For the battens, cut them to end half way across a joist, and then screw through around an inch and a quarter from the batten end at a slight angle into the joist. Then continue with your next piece. 'Stagger' where these joints on the adjacent joists.

 

Hmmm, SIPS. Niiiiice. Attractive...

You ain't gonna build an extension of that size for less than - ooh - £2k at the very, very minimum. And even then it'll look hellish. It'll look worse than a shed. And take months for a newbie DIYer to build.

How would you finish the outside? What would the roof be made from - and look like? What windows and doors will you fit...

Have you taken leave of your senses, man...

 

nope, fully functional senses

you do realise that the outer OSB skin of a SIP isn't the actual weather facing external finish don't you ?

oh, didn't think you did

most of the new builds in Scotland are SIP based, do they all look like sheds ?

 

Tbh, I didn't look very closely - as I knew from the off it wasn't a goer .


You have inadvertently answered a q a few of us have been askin' aroon here, tho', 'cos a house has chust gorn up a few hundred yards away from me - one day it was a pile of flat panels, the next day it was a bludy big house .

I'm guessing that's the stuff.

 

no that sounds like CCBP

 

??

 

My wood is coming tomorrow - was going to get started as I have a day off tomorrow, can't find anywhere that sells everbuild stixall though earliest delivery I can get is Thursday

 

Wood has arrived and think I've found a shop that sells everbuild stixall around the corner

 

I am both excited and a bit scared...

 

Me too!! I'm just wondering which screws to get, they need to be 65mm long that's all I know!