Can I temporarily insulate a conservatory roof?

Hi Lucy,

Not a bad price that conservatory.

Given the choice, I wouldn't go for a conservatory. Much better off building a garden room with a proper roof, however it all comes down to price at the end of the day.

The installations shown in this thread are all experimental and not sure if they're everyone's cup of tea.

Saying that, the conversion is pretty straighforward, inexpensive and very effective.

If you need any info, give us a shout.

You never know, Devil's Advocate might have woken up by then too..................

 

I'm not feeling a ground swell for the wood idea... I can't help it, I'm a chippie at heart and have a secret fondness of sawdust in my beard.

Fair play Gormac, I heard DA's hibernating.

 

THis is what my husband did to our conservatory roof, it's now a room to use all year. Warmer and no condensation in winter, no glare or excessive heat in winter, he used uvpc and two insulations ( ill ask ) Can't upload from my iPhone, will try from laptop tomorrow.

 

Seems we all went pretty much the same way.  I did think of cladding with wood but just felt plastic would a) stay where I put it (warping etc) and b) match the upvc in the conservatory (light asnd easy to work with too) Really simple job (Im a sales rep and rubbish at DIY but it only took me 3 Days and thats saying something) and so far seems really effective.  The temperature seems to of stabalized and the noise has been greatly reduced

 

Pretty succesful bank holiday so far - Batons fixed to the uprights, Superquilt stapled and taped etc.  Tomorrow the 2nd set of vertical batons and then the kingspan... One question remains - how are we fixing the UPVC cladding on top of the kingspan? Screw straight through it on the batons?

Ta..

 

...wha'...eh...urrrrghhhh...


***YAWN***             ***STRETCH***


Now, where were we?

Hmm, timber cladding instead of PVC - bludy brilliant idea.

Now, where's ma pillow?

 

The Celotex up there is gonna block the majority of the heat, so the timber cladding shouldn't suffer any more than it would in the normal home environment.

Sure it might move a teeny tad more than ceiling cladding in another part of the home, but the whole idea of the insulation is to prevent excess heat build-up, so it should find its stable point after a couple of months. It should make for a cosier, warmer effect.

Hey - I'd do it.


(But that's no recommendation...)

 

Greg,
cut the Kingspan to fit between the batons, rather than over them.
this will leave you with a wooden strip to staple the cladding to.

DA, nice to see you up and about....

 

'' heat build-up, so it should find its stable point after a couple of months.''

really ?

 

if you cut the PIR to fit in between the batons the timber will form an excellent thermal bridge (that's a bad thing) - overclad the timber and use longer screws through the PIR

 

I'm with Sean here - In order to leave the 25mm gap above and below the quilt I'm planning on overclading the timber and screwing through. That should give me a nice roomy environment for air to move about and, as a bonus, mean I have far less cocking about with angles of kingspan.

Sorry gormac, I feel like I just disagreed with a higher power or something,,..

DA, G'morning! I was all about the timber cladding until I had a dream about my lovely new (and warm) conservatory colapsing under the weight! (Really)

And finally - Tacwise electric stapler, thankyou, thankyou so much (£27.99 from our hosts).

g

 

Haha, not at all mate, whatever works for you.
i just found it a lot easier to be able to staple the cladding in position and staples are easier to cover with the next sheet.
like I said in an earlier post, mine was experimental so I'm open to suggestions.

 

As in my photos I put the kingspan over the batons and used no-nails for the cladding.  To ensure the first strip didnt move when fitting the rest I used some special 50mm nails with plastic ends which went through the kingspan in to the wooden beams (after drilling pilot hole). Pic attached, about 9 of them in all, 3 per side, I just though this was easier than cutting out all the kinpspan.  It also helped me form quite a good roof shape by using one up the batons then going straigt accross with the next to cover the centre (the metal plate etc on the roof then didnt become a problem).  You will also see that when I screwed the kingspan up I put some washers on the screws to give a better 'hold' for the kingspan

Hope that makes sense .... im no diyer

 

Hmm, 'no-nails' for the massively thermally-expanding/contracting PVC... Guess who's gonna have cladding in his lap

Greg, I am thinking in terms of thin decorative timber cladding - it's what? 8mm thick? Weighs significantly more than PVC? I wouldn't have thought so.

Anyways, conservatory roof structures are pretty strong, and the weight of cladding very evenly distributed.

Will it all come crashing down? I doubt it very, very much. Will you have expansion movement in your T and Gs? Yes - so you'll need to stain it the shade you want in the height of summer .

(Let's face it, one of the most 'thermally mobile' materials is PVC - it moves a large amount as the sun comes and goes (just listen to your guttering and fascias when the sun pops out). At least timber will only move very, very slowly over the year, rather than x times a day.

I'm off to bed.

 

Thats where the 'not a diy-er' will come in to play......... I did think about movement but 6 years ago I clad my garage roof the same way when I converted it in to a laundry (loads of heat and condensation from drier, heaters etc) and the cladding hasnt moved so took my chances.  Hopefully it will stay there and the bottom row of nails may help... if not I have plenty more of those plastic ended nails !

 

I'm sure it'll be fine.

I was chust making the point that if PVC can cope with the thermal movement, timber sure as 'ell can (altho' it's more moisture wot'll affect timber, of course).

 

I love how this original post just keeps on giving!

Kingspan up and taped, UPVC soffit faica panels arrive tomorrow, I'll screw through and see how we get on.

Next in my list of questions is about trim to cover the joins the between UPVC panels at the angles - I know I can use an H piece if 2 panels just butt against each other but do they work where there is an an angled join?

Hope that makes sense

g

 

If you go into a Wilkinsons or hardware store or Superstore or Builders' Merchants and check out their 'shower/bath sealing strips', you should hopefully find a roll of white pliable strip which is around 30mm wide and has a 'fold' in the middle. This is used to seal around baths and worktops, the fold usually being at 90o so's it goes in the corner along the back edge, but it will alos do shallower angles like wot you'll have. Self-adhesive too. I reckon that would be a simple and neat solution.

Obviously you need to mitre the PVC boards where they meet, and try not to have an excessive gap there (so I guess you do want a tiny expansion gap?). Might be tricky to get the first angle right, so use stiff card or summat to make a template.

 

Hi there just to say ive had my conservatory insulated and the inprovment is outstanding,we have had no problems with heat this year, temp remaining very confortable with plants now growing in my conservatory with no problems,the sound has also been reduced so its not like stepping outside when you enter its just like another room now,
I had the job done by a joiner friend of mine using super quilt and paster board,which i was abit concerned about because i thought the plaster would crack with expansion and conraction but so far no probs,i was going to do the job myself but being disableld i could not stand for long,i did tell my friend how i wanted the job doing and with his knowlege as he used to work in the conservatory industry gave me soom good addvice,like when you screw your battons on your conservatory frame make sure that you screw right in the middle as the frame as the frame is in a v shape,he also only put too screws in one at the very top and one at the very bottom and stuck the batton on with a very strong addecive,we also put six led lights in the roof which when on look very bright,we have now changed the room into a dinning room,best thing ive ever done,ged 

 

I used some 70mm flat plastic from a roofing supplier, its 35mm either 'side' and can be bent in the middle to form an angle, but I left it flat and bridged the mitre