Can you overload a thermo shower bar valve?

Discussion in 'Plumbers' Talk' started by simonkbike, Apr 27, 2015.

  1. simonkbike

    simonkbike New Member

    Evening all,

    I'm fitting a shower using speedfit push-fit fittings for the first time, onto plasterboard on 45mm studs on a victorian brick wall (v.hard), so not much depth behind and tricky job to chase out. It's a Vicky Pb "Cyclone thermostatic bar with diverter" which I expected to have a compression fitting on the back, but no, it has a female 3/4 inch tap connector. Then they supply... well it's sort of an eccentric 45mm long reducing stud, with a male 3/4in tap on one end and a male 1/2in tap on the other, but the slanted bit of stud in between has a hole through it that's only 9mm dia. Photos attached.
    ShowerFitting.jpg ShowerFitting2.jpg
    Two problems with this:
    1) I don't have enough depth for the reducing stud,
    2) it seems a bit pointless to put in a shower pump and 22mm pipe and then reduce down to a 9mm hole in the reducing stud before it gets to the thermostatic valve.

    As I don't need the eccentric stud to line up my fittings, I tried asking VP tech if what effect it have will on the valve if I dump the reducing stud and connect my 22mm pipe directly into the 3/4in tap fitting, but got a very vague reply that suggested they didn't get the point of the question.

    Anyone have an experience they can bring to this? Is it going to overload the valve ?

    S.
     
  2. Those cranked things are terrible, I just chuck 'em in my recycling box! Most showers have 150mm centres except Mira that have 6" so check the centres of the valve you have bought and if 150mm buy a bar valve fixing kit from our hosts, 76919. You'll need to reduce your 22mm to 15mm but that's all you need for a pumped shower. You'd need some hot water cylinder to keep up with pumped 22mm lol!!
     
  3. Big Dunk

    Big Dunk Active Member

  4. G&W Plumbing & Heating

    G&W Plumbing & Heating Active Member

    There **** we throw them away, use Bristan fast fix kits
     
  5. Big Dunk

    Big Dunk Active Member

    Here's one of the Bristan kits I linked to fitted into a stud wall. You don't need to cut out a large hole like I did in this one. It was just the plasterboard was damaged when I removed the old tiles.[​IMG]
    image.jpg image.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 2, 2015
  6. Dave does Gas

    Dave does Gas Screwfix Select

    Nice job Big D :)
     
  7. Big Dunk

    Big Dunk Active Member

    Cheers Dave :)
     
  8. G&W Plumbing & Heating

    G&W Plumbing & Heating Active Member

    You can just bring the tails out, then tile, then fast fix kits after,
     
  9. Plumberbish

    Plumberbish Active Member

    I agree with g&w it's easier to use the Bristan 13771 set after its tiled...keeps a good size bore on the pipe and no messing around with the stupid offset things!? Who's daft idea were they!?
     
  10. simonkbike

    simonkbike New Member

    Just to wrap up - I used a Bristan Mount 11 kit (#58495) and it worked really well. I set a vertical supporting stud on the centre line of the shower, so I could screw the Mount into position (needed to notch a bit out of the stud to set the mount flush). Then fitted plasterboard, fixed the mount (only needed lightweight screws at the outer ends into the plasterboard) and covered with my showerwall board.
    Thanks for all the advice.
     
    Plumberbish and Big Dunk like this.

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