Ceilings

Have them skimmed,get several quotes for the job,as artex may contain abestos, removal of it isn't a cheap option.
Can't give a idea as to cost, out out touch with current prices.

 

Without seeing seeing the ceiling difficult to advise 100%, might get away with just screwing to pull boards up tight to the joist, or might need to tape the joints before skimming.

 

Hi Kathekas.

Are you looking to repair these cracks, or also get rid of the stipple to leave a smooth ceiling?

And are you looking to DIY this or get pros in?

As an idea for DIYing, KIAB's thoughts of adding further screws along each side of the cracks would be a good start - keep around 10mm from the crack, and use plasterboard screws (available from our hosts) every 150mm or so. You will likely need to make a small countersink in the 'artex' first so the Bugle heads of the screws will be slightly below the surface when screwed in. No need to pilot drill for the screws themselves - they should go straight in.

Obviously that will mean a lot of light filling afterwards - a thin smear.

At the same time, I think it would be worth trying to bond the crack so's it doesn't keep moving. My own preferred method for this is to slightly dilute PVA by around 20% with water, and then soak-brush this along the cracks - and watch what happens. Hopefully you'll see it get drawn in by capillary action, so keep 'soaking' it so it carries on doing this for as long as possible - you want that whole cracked edge to be fully coated in PVA.

(Cover the floor 'cos this could drip everywhere... Also have a large damp cloth with you to wipe the surrounding areas and no have PVA layers building up either side of the crack!)

If necessary, you may also need to scrape out the crack a bit more using say the edge of a scraping knife. Sometimes you need to enlarge the crack before it can be filled again properly. If so, then enlarge the crack before PVAing.

When dry, get a fine surface filler and wipe it over the cracks using a flexible rubber blade if you can get one - hopefully that'll follow the contours of the texture better, and the whole thing will only require the most basic sanding afterwards to get it blended in.

If you are looking at a 'pro' job, then call out at least a couple of decorators/plasterers (plasterers if you are also after a smooth skimmed ceiling) and ask their thoughts, emphasising your concern over the cracks.

Listen to what each has to say.

Their thoughts might range from additional screws as KIAB says, or deepening the cracks before gluing and filling, or - if it's to be skimmed - even taping the joints with scrim tape before skimming. That should be permanent.

 

Plasterboard screws will self countersink thereselves, but if you overtighten the will go through plasterboard.

You will struggle to match the exsisting finish whhen you fill the cracks, bet to skim I think.

 

My parents house is about the same age with artex, the joints were taped using plaster mesh tape. No cracks on any joints, just a bit bumpy.

Living room had skimmed using uni-finish (yes its pink, which already has PVA), planning on doing all ceilings.

Could be that the boards joints don't meet on joist, so edges of pb are unsupported, which allows more movement.

 

Wonder how they got using that plaster, used that Uni finish about three years ago, couldn't get on with it,sorry I'm old school, prefer to brush on pva.

 

Looks ok, had to do some minor filing which is normal.

Plasterer found it ok and more flexible, much more dearer though about double price than multi-finish.

But did buy the split bags which were reduced.

 

Darn expensive, better to buy a 5ltr of pva & use multi finish, cheaper

 

I suspect - but don't know - that by the time they've set everything up (all the equipment, thingy to stand on, mixing whatsits, and have sorted out the actual cracks (tape or whatever), they'd consider it a day's work.

And if they have to PVA the whole ceiling prior to skimming, it most likely will be.

But I've no idea. So should shut up...

 

Good advice...

A day's works, artex will need a coat of diluted pva to provide a good bond before skimming.

 

Or bonding coat first

 

Overboard, tape joins, easifill, sand smooth job done ready to paint.

 

I wasn't sure the heads would sink into actual Artex, or perhaps not without cracking it around t'screw?

 

Over board, skim, job done.

 

If the cracks are large it may be easier to overboard then tape & fill / skim. Make sure the new board joins do not line up with the old and it will not crack. Nice extra soundproofing also.