After a bit of advice on this. I've dug down to the clay sewer pipe as need to connect in a new stack but the thing is surrounded by concrete seemingly all the way along (photo doesn't show this that well but left and right of the pipe is solid. Not a weak mix either - chisel wouldn't touch it! I need to cut the clay and insert a branch - how does one usually deal with this? I can't help thinking if I start on it with a SDS drill I'll smash the pipe...
As far as I have read it's not required as I have rodding access on the stack just above ground level?
Is the sewer line just serving your property or neighbors as well? If you do connect a branch, what fittings will you use? plastic using flexi seals etc. Also that looks like the water (MDPE) and possibly gas services.
Yes in that photo you can see gas and electric, under the electric (which you can't see due to camera angle) is an old lead water pipe (I've since replaced with 32mm MDPE). Sewer line is for my property only. I was planning on connecting a 45deg plastic branch into the clay (using short lengths of normal plastic sewer pipe and flexi collars either side, then plastic from that branch into the rest bend which the new stack connects into. Above ground I have one of these for access: http://www.screwfix.com/p/single-socket-access-pipe-sp581/82593
The clay pipes may be in lengths of 3ft. There is also a possibility of the joint being disturbed, so may have to dig up to either end, in worst case scenario. They are joined using spigots on one end of the pipe. Getting a grinder into to cut the pipe is going to be difficult, and wouldn't recommend this as close to service. There is a a clay pipe cutter, which I have never used.
Thanks, the cutting and connections etc I'm not concerned about - there's a lot more height between the other services and the drain than it looks in that photo. My problem is that the sewer pipe I need to join on to is bedded in (very strong!) concrete which I gather was common practice at some point in time and I'm wondering if there's a trick in this situation as I don't want to break the clay pipe?
Going through Part J - http://www.planningportal.gov.uk/uploads/br/BR_PDF_AD_H_2015.pdf The bit referring to access says: I would have a junction there, but it would be clearable through an access point (on the soil stack)
Thanks Jitender - the problem is the pipe is encased in concrete so at the moment I couldn't get one of those round it. I have all the bits I need for when I can actually expose the pipe - the question is how do I expose the pipe...
I don't think there is any other option than to break up the surround concrete. Could you use and angle grinder (space permitting) to cut a slot either side of the pipe to reduce stresses? in the worst case scenario, you may need to replace this section of clay pipe. May need something a little bigger than SDS. Unless someone has any better ideas Less stress when the sewer is only serving your property, are you 100% positive. I wouldn't worry to much about an inspection chamber. Did something similar a while back.
I think you're right, I just have visions of breaking the pipe, then having to go a bit further back, then again, then again, having to dig out mountains of earth each time until I finally find a bit which comes off cleanly. I was wishfully hoping that someone would say "ah yes cut straight through the lot then use this adapter which fits inside the clay pipe". I'd seen the McAlpine DC1 BL but that's going to cause a ridge in the 'upstream' side which doesn't seem a good idea
Look like the mix is quite course, If you concentrate on trying to break off small sections (stones), rather then using a pointed chisel making sure not do go in to deep.
Thanks, yes it was very coarse, I tried grinding two slots about 2 inches apart then chiselling between them in the hope it would come away from the pipe but it's stuck like you wouldn't believe
There is another adpator I bought a few years ago called Hepworth S464. The only thing is the internal diameter is reduced - so not ideal to put in as want to maintain same diameter throughout. Not used the Hepworth super sleeves though - this wont work as there are different kids of clay (salt glazed, etc) so would have to go for flex seals either end, and branch in clay or plastic.
They look good, similar to the McAlpine but longer. Like you say though, changes the internal diameter and particularly on the upstream end this could cause issues... Looks like hours of chiselling ahead...
Flexseal Adaptor couplings, clay to plastic,etc. http://www.screwfix.com/p/flexible-adaptor/19914?kpid=19914 Should be able to get a 4 1/2" grinder in there to cut pipe.
Yes, have those - it's the concrete that's my problem, bl00dy stuff is stuck like a rock to the pipe...
You usually find the concrete will come away cleanly with a sds bull point, as it doesn't adhere well to the sallt glazed pipe, but it is a slow job, & the pipe can crack. Had identical problem here, connecting plastic to clay,it was a nightmare, as I had to remove 12" of concrete before I got to the pipe, as over the years, layer up on layer of concrete had been added to the original path.
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