Cleaning out CH System

Discussion in 'Plumbers' Talk' started by Steve Trevelyan, Aug 22, 2016.

  1. Steve Trevelyan

    Steve Trevelyan New Member

    I recently had to get a call out to repair leak in my boiler , apparently **** gets into the auto air vents and they leak ...Well during this visit the engineer had to drain part of it to fit new vents and whilst doing so said it was the most dirtyest he has ever seen !

    So I want to flush out system , I don't get problems with cold spots etc due to excessive sludge but want to clean it out none the less . The problem is , the rads up stairs are fed from loft so would not drain naturally, so ...bear with me .. I'm thinking if I close up every rad, then open one rad , turn on filling loop and drain from the return at the boiler this should drain and flush just the rad I have open ? And then close and repeat on next rad ....once finished introduce a cleaner, drain then add inhibitor...
    Boiler gets serviced yearly and has a magna clean but I'm guessing the water never gets checked .
    So will my method work ?
    Any advice appreciated
     
  2. I don't see your method actually flushing out anything more than normal radiator flow would.

    Also, a lot of that sludge will be compacted in the bottoms of the rads and will need a fair bit of agitation to remove it.

    Pros would likely use a Magncleanse (a jumbo version of your filter) and tackle each rad separately - hammering the rad body with a special drill attachment at the same time.

    The DIY version of this would be to remove each rad in turn and take them outside - run a hose through them whilst using a rubber mallet especially along the bottoms.

    You say you have a Mangaclean fitted? Checking that is a DIY task - turn off the boiler, shut off each Magna valve, undo the bleed screw at the top to release the pressure and then undo the top lid using the large plastic spanner provided. (This can be bludy tight, so fully support the filter body so's you don't put any strain on the pipes and fittings.)

    Have a look what the state of the filter is - that'll tell you lots!

    (I've removed the plastic sleeve on mine 'cos it makes the magnetic attraction significantly more powerful. I chust use a paper kitchen towel to wipe the magnet clean - dead easy.)

    You could try the long-term approach to cleaning the system - refill the filter housing with a strong cleaner like X800 (strong) or X900 (can stay in system), and then clean the filter every couple of months. Mind you, this will only work when the rads are back on.

    If you could flush out each rad in turn and then use chemicals it might sort your problem in time.
     
  3. CraigMcK

    CraigMcK Screwfix Select

    Or bear in mind that the guy was probably trying to sell you a power flush!
    If you don't have cold spots on rads and in general it was working fine I would go for a Fernox/Sentinel type cleaning additive and run that for a while, drain it out and refill with a corrosion inhibitor.

    But as DA's said have a look at the filter that will be a good indicator of how clean (or not) the system is
     
    Deleted member 33931 likes this.
  4. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    Power Flushing, a quick way to make some, no alot of money, :rolleyes:better to put some Sentinel X800 in the system & let it run round for a few weeks or so, you'll probably see improvemts within a few hours, I did here with my Valliant.
    You need to give system a couple of flushes, should also see the evidence of any crud in your Mangaclean.
    You can also go around the radiators & give them a few taps with a rubber mallet to loosen any crud.
    You can leave in X800 in for anm extended period of time without affecting the system.

    After flushing system refill & add Sentinel X100 inhibitor, & maybe a does of X900 Filter Aid, this can be left in permantly.
     
    Last edited: Aug 23, 2016
  5. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

  6. Steve Trevelyan

    Steve Trevelyan New Member

    Hi , thanks for the advice , I will check the magna clean....like I said I don't have problems with rads it's just that the water was black ! I've seen black water loads of times when replacing rads so how he considers its the dirtyest he's ever seen is beyond me....it probably to justify the 2 air vents leaking as he says muck gets trapped in them and causes them to leak , basically telling me it's my dirty water causing the fault rendering my warranty void ...
    I will use a cleaner. I assume I must have every rad open ?
    Also when I do drain system I'm assuming the rads upstairs will not drain as flow and returns go up into loft , I'm worried some of this cleaning stuff will remain , is it a problem or am I going to have to bite the bullet and put drain plugs on the rads ?
    Thanks for your help ...
     
  7. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    Last edited: Aug 24, 2016
  8. Steve Trevelyan

    Steve Trevelyan New Member

    I have drain cocks downstairs but must of had a blonde moment when I fitted the upstairs rads all those years ago ...
     
  9. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    P:S: Remember to strip down drain cock before soldering, otherwise you melt the O ring,etc.:)
     
  10. Dave does Gas

    Dave does Gas Screwfix Select

    Why would anyone consider fitting a drain off upstairs ?????
     
  11. Rulland

    Rulland Screwfix Select

    For the anti-gravity water you have left in a system after opening the lower ones.
     
  12. Steve Trevelyan

    Steve Trevelyan New Member

    Well if feed pipes go up from rads into loft then back down , I guess you need drain valves....
     
  13. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    I will finish my post, now my connection is back.:mad:

    At my present place, orginally the CH pipes came in to 1st bedroom over top of door frame, then drop down to 1st radiator & then on to the next ones in other bedrooms, there was no way to to drain down system on the this floor with out a drain cock (bad design, since changed), & one of my previous places the CH pipe followed a step, & drop 150mm to the lower 1st floor serving 2 bedrooms, again there was no way to drain this section of CH system without a drain cock.
    So, he may or may not need a drain cock, depending how the system was designed.

    I seen attics in old houses & not so old houses, where there are beams,joist & split levels, means you have no choice but to fit drain cocks, on a section of CH,due to the design of the property.
     
    Last edited: Aug 25, 2016
  14. Steve Trevelyan

    Steve Trevelyan New Member

    So , I'm going to put drain valves on the rads upstairs for the reasons already described ....of the 3 rads , luckily on 2 of them the trv and lock shield are both connected to the left top and bottom, leaving bottom right outlet free ....can I buy a drain valve that will fit in this outlet ?
    Also for the one remaining rad that have valves on both sides , can you get lock shields with built in drain valve that I can replace existing lock shield with as there is just not enough pipe to fit a separate drain on ...
     
    Last edited: Aug 25, 2016
  15. Rob_bv

    Rob_bv Active Member

    Make sure to check that you can loosen all the radiator bleed valves off first. If they are seized or rusted (or even stripped completely) then the job is about to become exponentially more miserable!
     
  16. Steve Trevelyan

    Steve Trevelyan New Member

    Yeah all bleed valves are good , in fact I don't think there is a big problem apart from water being dirty black . So can you get the drain valves that fit directly into the rad and also a lock shield that incorporates a drain off ?
     
  17. Steve Trevelyan

    Steve Trevelyan New Member

    Oh I've just found them, job done ...
     

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