close coupled toilet fitting

Discussion in 'Plumbers' Talk' started by dab, Aug 8, 2007.

  1. dab

    dab New Member

    Hi I am trying to help an old boy down the road who's toilet is not flushing I know that I have to do a bit more with the close coupled toilet when changing the syphon and I have read up on it but I have never done it. He can not get a plumber job not worth it and his son can not be bothered so a step bt step plan would be nice. since its not my house i do not want to make any errors. thanks for all your help is advance
  2. plumber31

    plumber31 New Member

    Isolate water supply (Valve at toilet or stopcock downstairs).
    Drain cold water off at kitchen sink.
    Empty cistern water (flush or create syphon with a length of tube).
    Have towels ready under cistern.
    Unscrew cistern from wall.
    Unscrew coupling bolts under cistern.
    Disconnect water inlet nut from float valve tail.
    Disconnect overflow (if there is an external overflow)
    Lift cistern off pan.
    Remove flush syphon with big grips.
    Repair syphon or buy new one.
    Refit syphon not forgeting large rubber washer (I sometimes use plumbers mait aswell as a precaution)
    Nip up back nut (dont crack it though!)
    Replace doughnut washer (the big fat one that goes between cistern and pan) best to buy a new one.
    Connect everything back up
    Turn water on
    Check for leaks.
    :)
  3. MR BUSY

    MR BUSY New Member

    Where abouts are you?.
    It's possible someone on here might be interested, it's certainly not too small a job in my opinion.
  4. dab

    dab New Member

    Your a star, the only part I am confused over and it does not take much is what does nip up the back nut mean is this just meaning tighten it up and the new washers that you need can I just get a complete set/ all in 1 bag of everything that I would need or do i need to know whta I am looking for
  5. Captain Leaky

    Captain Leaky New Member

    "Nip It Up" just tighten by hand DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN

    You can buy a cc pan connector set with donut, bolts, flange etc.
  6. dab

    dab New Member

    will I be able to buy this set from say B&Q, Due to the fact that his son will not dip in his pocket how much will it cost to do this job and replace everything inside. Also I had a look inside at the screw holding onto the wall are rusted up and will not turn can I just cut these offand replace them
  7. Eye Squared R

    Eye Squared R New Member

    Dab,

    I recently changed my first siphon on a Close Coupled Cistern for my in-laws. The wing nuts and bolts holding the Cistern to the toilet bowel were very rusty and I sprayed the threads with WD40 to ease their removal. One you have the Cistern removed undoing the siphon is relatively easy. It is important to realise the water tight seal is made between the siphon and the cistern and has nothing to do with the coupling kit (ie the bolts and wing nuts holding the cistern to the toilet bowl). I would replace the water feed and tighten by hand and then a quarter turn. I would restore the water supply and if necessary tighten the compression joint to stop any leakage and no more.

    The parts from Screwfix were a lot cheaper than the local plumbers:

    Siphon:

    http://www.screwfix.com/search.do;jsessionid=SLSUWY2J3JQUECSTHZPCFFQ?_dyncharset=UTF-8&fhsearch=siphon

    Close Coupled Kit:

    http://www.screwfix.com/search.do;jsessionid=SLSUWY2J3JQUECSTHZPCFFQ?_dyncharset=UTF-8&fhsearch=close+coupledkit
  8. tightenit

    tightenit New Member

    Agree with all that's been said, but it isn't necessarily a straightforward job if you are not experienced in this type of work. The wing nuts underneath can be rusty and liable to break etc. Basically you only need to change the syphon disc, but unfortunately on older cisterns this means separating the cistern from the pan. Around here the job is worth about 30 quid if the disc is replaced, and about 50 quid for a complete syphon and close coupling kit. You'll maybe need a new fibre washer for the cold feed inlet too once you've broken the existing seal. Good luck with it.
  9. dab

    dab New Member

    eye squared r thanks for the information its nice to here you managed to do your first one and it went ok I might replace the whole inside and make it all new could you give me a list of everything I will need to purchase sorry I do not know the actual names of things I call them by what they look like.
    I would be most grateful if you or anyone could help. Also do I need special sort of screws to re attach the cistern back to the wall or can I just use any sort
    cheers
  10. mayhem

    mayhem New Member

    Can't you can get a syphon for close coupled that can come apart without the full strip down of the cistern.
    Perhaps this might be worth considering? Might make sorting any issues afterwards easier?
  11. dab

    dab New Member

    unsure if youo can or can not, but I still will need to take it all apart to fit it
  12. strappy

    strappy New Member

    everything that the other gents have said is correct,they are easy to change if you know what to expect,they can also be a pain in the ****,good for you for helping out though,his son needs ***** with the rough end of a pineapple.
    the first thing you need to do is make sure you can isolate the water supply to the cistern,hopefully there will be an isolating valve on the supply to the cistern,if there isn't you are then looking at isolating the cold down service to the house,these are normally ****** gatevalves that wont turn and if they do they dont stop the flow of water,if this is the case you need to isolate the supply to the cold water storage tank in the loft by either shutting off at the stopcock or tying the ballvalve up and then draining the whole tank,the supply to the cistern could be on the mains and if there isn't an isolating valve on the supply to the cistern you need to isolate the stopcock that feeds the house,this could also be a ***** to turn,be careful you don't snap the head off,i'm not trying to put you off just giving you info that will prepare you for what might happen.fingers crossed there will be a decent valve on the supply to the cistern,once you are happy that you can isolate the supply you need to get rid of the water in the cistern,you can syphon it out,bale it out with a small cup or even use a sponge and ring it out in the toilet,once the cistern is empty you need to undo the nut on the fitting that connects to the tail of the ball valve and undo the overflow pipe,if it's not an internal type,the only things holding the cistern on the pan and to the wall are the rusty screws and the rusty wing nuts,you can try spraying the wing nuts with wd 40 but you will probably end up cutting them off with a junior hacksaw,when you have cut through both of them use a big screwdriver and see if you can twist the heads off of the rusty screws in the cistern,when you've done that you should be able to lift the cistern off the pan.you will then see how the bracket fits to the cistern and where the doughnut washer goes,while you've got the cistern out you might as well fit a new syphon but you can get replacement diaphragms.
    you need to ask for a doughnut washer,a close coupling kit,a 1/2" fibre washer for reconnecting to the ballvalve and a new syphon or diaphragm,you might as well get a new flat rubber washer that goes on the syphon where it goes through the cistern,look at the links on one of the other replies and it will show you exactly what you need and then at least you will have a better idea,good luck

    [Edited by: admin5]
  13. tackleburger

    tackleburger New Member

    One thing no-one has mentioned is reconnecting the water supply to the inlet. Be careful when you do this as you are normally connecting a brass fitting onto a plastic thread. If you get this cross threaded you may end up having to replace the ball valve new or old.

Share This Page