close coupled toilet fitting

Isolate water supply (Valve at toilet or stopcock downstairs).
Drain cold water off at kitchen sink.
Empty cistern water (flush or create syphon with a length of tube).
Have towels ready under cistern.
Unscrew cistern from wall.
Unscrew coupling bolts under cistern.
Disconnect water inlet nut from float valve tail.
Disconnect overflow (if there is an external overflow)
Lift cistern off pan.
Remove flush syphon with big grips.
Repair syphon or buy new one.
Refit syphon not forgeting large rubber washer (I sometimes use plumbers mait aswell as a precaution)
Nip up back nut (dont crack it though!)
Replace doughnut washer (the big fat one that goes between cistern and pan) best to buy a new one.
Connect everything back up
Turn water on
Check for leaks.

 

Where abouts are you?.
It's possible someone on here might be interested, it's certainly not too small a job in my opinion.

 

"Nip It Up" just tighten by hand DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN

You can buy a cc pan connector set with donut, bolts, flange etc.

 

Dab,

I recently changed my first siphon on a Close Coupled Cistern for my in-laws. The wing nuts and bolts holding the Cistern to the toilet bowel were very rusty and I sprayed the threads with WD40 to ease their removal. One you have the Cistern removed undoing the siphon is relatively easy. It is important to realise the water tight seal is made between the siphon and the cistern and has nothing to do with the coupling kit (ie the bolts and wing nuts holding the cistern to the toilet bowl). I would replace the water feed and tighten by hand and then a quarter turn. I would restore the water supply and if necessary tighten the compression joint to stop any leakage and no more.

The parts from Screwfix were a lot cheaper than the local plumbers:

Siphon:

http://www.screwfix.com/search.do;jsessionid=SLSUWY2J3JQUECSTHZPCFFQ?_dyncharset=UTF-8&fhsearch=siphon

Close Coupled Kit:

http://www.screwfix.com/search.do;jsessionid=SLSUWY2J3JQUECSTHZPCFFQ?_dyncharset=UTF-8&fhsearch=close+coupledkit

 

Agree with all that's been said, but it isn't necessarily a straightforward job if you are not experienced in this type of work. The wing nuts underneath can be rusty and liable to break etc. Basically you only need to change the syphon disc, but unfortunately on older cisterns this means separating the cistern from the pan. Around here the job is worth about 30 quid if the disc is replaced, and about 50 quid for a complete syphon and close coupling kit. You'll maybe need a new fibre washer for the cold feed inlet too once you've broken the existing seal. Good luck with it.

 

Can't you can get a syphon for close coupled that can come apart without the full strip down of the cistern.
Perhaps this might be worth considering? Might make sorting any issues afterwards easier?

 

everything that the other gents have said is correct,they are easy to change if you know what to expect,they can also be a pain in the ****,good for you for helping out though,his son needs ***** with the rough end of a pineapple.
the first thing you need to do is make sure you can isolate the water supply to the cistern,hopefully there will be an isolating valve on the supply to the cistern,if there isn't you are then looking at isolating the cold down service to the house,these are normally ****** gatevalves that wont turn and if they do they dont stop the flow of water,if this is the case you need to isolate the supply to the cold water storage tank in the loft by either shutting off at the stopcock or tying the ballvalve up and then draining the whole tank,the supply to the cistern could be on the mains and if there isn't an isolating valve on the supply to the cistern you need to isolate the stopcock that feeds the house,this could also be a ***** to turn,be careful you don't snap the head off,i'm not trying to put you off just giving you info that will prepare you for what might happen.fingers crossed there will be a decent valve on the supply to the cistern,once you are happy that you can isolate the supply you need to get rid of the water in the cistern,you can syphon it out,bale it out with a small cup or even use a sponge and ring it out in the toilet,once the cistern is empty you need to undo the nut on the fitting that connects to the tail of the ball valve and undo the overflow pipe,if it's not an internal type,the only things holding the cistern on the pan and to the wall are the rusty screws and the rusty wing nuts,you can try spraying the wing nuts with wd 40 but you will probably end up cutting them off with a junior hacksaw,when you have cut through both of them use a big screwdriver and see if you can twist the heads off of the rusty screws in the cistern,when you've done that you should be able to lift the cistern off the pan.you will then see how the bracket fits to the cistern and where the doughnut washer goes,while you've got the cistern out you might as well fit a new syphon but you can get replacement diaphragms.
you need to ask for a doughnut washer,a close coupling kit,a 1/2" fibre washer for reconnecting to the ballvalve and a new syphon or diaphragm,you might as well get a new flat rubber washer that goes on the syphon where it goes through the cistern,look at the links on one of the other replies and it will show you exactly what you need and then at least you will have a better idea,good luck

[Edited by: admin5]

 

One thing no-one has mentioned is reconnecting the water supply to the inlet. Be careful when you do this as you are normally connecting a brass fitting onto a plastic thread. If you get this cross threaded you may end up having to replace the ball valve new or old.