Combi boiler - central heating fine, kitchen tap fine, bath not fine

Discussion in 'Plumbers' Talk' started by WillingToLearn, Apr 29, 2016.

  1. WillingToLearn

    WillingToLearn New Member

    Having some issues with hot water in our flat and hoping that people might be able to help us isolate what and where the problem is.

    We have a Worcester Greenstar combi boiler - either the 24i junior or the 28i (I should know which but there is nothing anywhere on the casing to indicate.) About 9 years old (installed by the previous owners).

    Although we have had some issues in the past with hot water, this has usually been resolved by re-pressurising. We have typically been able to run hot, deep baths quite quickly with this boiler, so I don't think it is underpowered for our needs. All was working fine until a couple of weeks ago, but now the hot water in the bathroom has slowed to a trickle.

    The central heating is fine and the hot water tap in the kitchen (right next to the bathroom) is fine - normal flow and as scaldingly hot as ever. The pressure also appears to be okay this time. When I turn on the hot water tap in the kitchen, the boiler fires up immediately. However, when I run the hot tap in the bathroom, the boiler either does not start up at all or takes a long time to do so.

    If I run the hot tap in the bathroom, I get a normal stream of cold water (although possibly less flow than there used to be). When the water starts to heat up, the water drops to a tiny trickle. If I turn the tap halfway off, I get slightly more hot water, but still only a small stream. This lasts for maybe 2-5 minutes (not quite enough to cover the bottom of the bath), then it goes cold and I get a gush of cold water (again at nearly normal rate).

    The tap then runs cold for maybe 10 minutes, before going back to a wee trickle of hot and then back to cold. Sometimes it never gets hot no matter how long the tap runs. Meanwhile, the boiler goes on and off, seemingly unrelated to whether there is hot water or not.

    Any ideas? Is it more likely to be a problem with the plumbing in the bathroom, or could there be a problem with the boiler that only affects the bathroom hot water supply? Let me know if I can give any more useful information. If it helps, we live in London, with very very hard water so limescale might be causing an issue in on or more places.

    Calling in a plumber is difficult at the moment, but if you can suggest anything that two laypeople could try to fix this, that would be hugely appreciated. I don't have a huge amount of plumbing experience, but as the name says, I am willing to learn.

    Many thanks...
     
  2. Glad its Friday

    Glad its Friday Active Member

    If the CH is ok and all the rest of the hot taps in the property are also ok, then your problem is to do with that one tap. Chances are that the washer has deteriorated and is not releasing when the tap is opened.

    Can you isolate the water to that one tap? Perhaps a service valve behind the basin.
    You'll need to strip down the tap and replace the washer, lots of videos on line to look at and follow. Try looking on Toms Tips, he was a top contributor on here until recently.

    Hope it goes ok.
     
  3. WillingToLearn

    WillingToLearn New Member

    DID IT!!

    Thank you for your reply, Glad. No way to isolate that one tap - no in-line valves or anything, so had to find the main stopcock (should have known about this but never needed it before). That was jammed shut, but eventually got it moving with WD40 and some cautious wrenching. Will keep it oiled and moving from now on.

    Undoing the tap valve was a major PITA - I don't think it has been touched since the bath was installed in about 1980. Again, tried WD40, then bought a newer, better wrench (Bahco), then tried heating it with a hairdryer and eventually it submitted.

    The washer looks fine, but when I took the valve all apart, there was some gunk inside. Also some limescale in various places. Cleaned this up as best I could with limescale remover (hope this is okay on brass), washed it all out, dried it and put it back together. Instant hot water. Lots of it. Bliss.

    I would have just replaced the valve, but the old ones seem to have a weird obsolete number of splines - and the head carriers for the tap handles are designed to fit those. We would have to replace all the tap handles as well, to fit on on normal valves with a normal number of splines. Basically, we need a whole new bathroom, but can't afford it just yet, so we are keeping the old stuff on life support.

    For an encore, I am going to try to mend the handle of the basin tap and fit a new toilet seat. I have some new toys, and I have learned some important new things, so all is good. I may be slightly high on WD40, though.
     
  4. Excellent result, WTL.

    These 'washered' taps might seem like a nice easy start to a plumbing DIY task, but - as you've found - they can be a 'mare.

    The weird behaviour was likely down to the tap's internals expanding with the hot water which in turn closed off the washer and turned down the flow. This is pretty common when the internals have gunked up as you're found - basically the tap never opens up fully, so the slight closing-off is enough to almost stop the flow again.

    If you are gonna become a master-DIYer like it sounds as tho' you are, then get yersel a small tub of silicone grease. This is a clear grease which is heat-resistant, non-toxic and also won't attack rubber washers and O rings and stuff - it's designed for plumbing. I'm sure your tap will be fine for a long time - until you replace it all - but a smear of SG on the brass threads and bits inside would have added that extra bit of protection and silkiness...

    One more wee tip - now you've slackened the main stop valve, and have added a squirt of WD down the shaft, when you fully re-open it, don't. I mean, don't fully open it - instead open it all the way until it stops, and then close it a good half turn. The flow won't be affected, but it'll be much less likely to seize open.
     
  5. WillingToLearn

    WillingToLearn New Member

    Thank you, Devil's Advocate! I have actually already ordered a little tub of silicone grease. I was in Screwfix yesterday but they only seemed to have big tubs, so I have ordered this online http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Plumbers-...672382?hash=item1c58d891be:g:gSwAAOSwI-BWP0kM Does the brand matter or is it all basically the same stuff?

    Really good advice on the stop valve - I will go and close it slightly now. Am all for making life easier in the future. Thanks again...
     
  6. diymostthings

    diymostthings Well-Known Member

    if you feel really adventurous and the location permits you could think about replacing the stop valve with a quarter turn full bore (e.g. Pegler)valve. These don't have washers and are likely to remain grief free for many years without exercise. (Does mean locating the stopcock on the pavement though and getting it to work - but that's something that's worth doing anyway).
     
  7. Hi WtL.

    I'm sure that stuff is fine.

    As DIY says, a full-bore lever ball valve makes life a lot easier, but can be a hassle to fit if the street stopcock is hard to get to - or also seized...

    But, if the opportunity ever arises, they are great.
     

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