I have 2 questions, 1. I have a old consumer unit, one with wire fuses, as per the photos. I was wondering are these still ok? I have thought about changing to the rcd's that plug in but have read some bad things about them tripping all the time? What is the view about this? 2. My second question is that we currently have a free standing cooker, hard wired in. The breaker (wired fuse) in the board is a 30Amp. We have bought a induction hob and oven. I know the induction hob needs to be hard wired in, but can I hard wire the oven into the same outlet at 30Amp, or should I get an outlet with a plug and plug the oven in. I haven't unpacked it but looking on the box it shows it with a plug. Seems strange to just plug it in. Could it be hard wired to a fused spur on the existing plug ring? At the moment my thought is to hard wire them both to the current stove outlet, using a dual cooker/appliance outlet.
I think you mean the plugin MCBs not RCDs (your installation is a already protected by an RCD) Like this They have their pros and cons but your money would be better spent getting the board upgraded. To answer your second question the load characteristics of the appliances would be helpful.
Looking at the pics again - it may be time to get a spark round to at least inspect the current installation as this looks suspiciously like your main earth terminal
Thanks, its on the to do list, need to find one to come around. I will have a look at the load ratings tonight and post tomorrow. and yes I meant MCB Thanks
Looks like a TT set up as well. Does look an old installation and I'd want a quick check of the electrics before stuff is altered myself. On the oven front, if it comes with a plug then I would wire a single socket off the cooker circuit, after the isolator switch. and plug it into that.
Also how is the 6mm cable installed? for example conduit in wall, clipped direct, above a plaster board ceiling covered by insulation exceeding 100mm, above a plasterboard ceiling covered by insulation not exceeding 100mm. What's the KW rating of both appliances?
In the ceiling, down the wall in conduit. No insulation in the ceiling as this is ground floor. kW rating will post tomorrow, don't have the info with me at work
With Cf factored in, the current carrying capacity of the 6mm is about 27A. Diversity can be applied to the oven and hob.
27A for a 6mm? I'd want that from a 2.5 I suspect this is from the expensive yellow book again, its just £80 of mumbo jumbo.
well obviously its from the BYB and previous editions. Any circuit protected by a BS3036 fuse should have the correction factor of 0.725 applied to the tabulated CCC of the cable.
So what do you do, go and hunt down a 15A re-wireable fuse so it covers it because its still on a re-wireable? If you are changing the fuse/carrier why not put a 32A plug in MCB in instead? Its got a fixed load on it anyway so whatever fuse/mcb you protect it with the current on the cable ain't changing. You could protect that cable with a 40A MCB and I can 1000000000% guarantee that nothing will ever go wrong with it. It may be against the regs, it may not be, I just feel there are more important things in life to worry about than a book of words. Everything you think you are doing safe now will be deemed dangerous practice in a couple of years from now when they have another book to sell, I wouldn't pay too much attention to it really.
yes it may well have a fixed load but the cable still has to safely carry that current. The correction factor for semi enclosed fuses is due to thermal constraints on the cable under overload and fault conditions. When omitting overload protection the CPC CSA needs to be of an appropriate size based on the chracteristics of the OCPD and PFC. Of course there are more important things in life than a book of words as you put it but as I chose a career as an electrician i feel its necessary to have a better than average understanding of the regulations of which we operate.
Oh I understand the regs I just dont devote my life to blindly following each and every one of them, some I find quite idiotic. Take the volt drop one, apart from the fact most things will work quite happily on a large range of voltages anyway the regs say that volt drop is the holy grail and must never drop below 3% otherwise armageddon will ensue and then a couple of pages later say oh by the way we cant guarantee voltages at peak times so you will have to factor in the Cmin. What a load of old ****.
volt drop is mentioned in Appendix 4 which is only informative. volt drop should not exceed the limits stated in the relevant standards of the equipment to be installed. If the limits are not stated then it should be of a limit that does not impair the safe functioning of the equipment.The requirements of volt drop are deemed to be met where they don't exceed the values stated in appendix 4.
Ok thanks all for the comments, so the new counter has been delivered today, so the pressure is going to be on now to get the new oven and hob installed. The attached show my thoughts on how to connect them up. Comments welcome. One question is do I change the old wire fuse to a plug in MCB, should I look at putting in a 30A or 40A, or just leave this as is? The dual outlet I was looking at using was this type https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/AA45DCOP.html. Screwfix don’t seem to sell one. The hob comes with cables, but haven’t unpack the whole box so not sure what the oven comes with. If it was a plug could I cut the plug off and connect it to the dual outlet?
I would change the wired fuse personally, Plug in MCBs cost less than a tenner, you will have to change the guard at the back of the fuse as well though , easy enough but turn the main switch off first. If the oven comes with a plug on then wire a single socket off the cooker cable. If it doesn't I would be happy for the 6mm and hob feed to sit on a 32A MCB or even possibly a 40A but maybe not the thinner flex of the oven, it all depends on what the oven says it should be connected to.
OK here is the plan From the existing Oven switch, run a 6mm T&E to a dual outlet. The hob comes with its cable so connect that to the outlet (7.2kW) Oven is 2.5kW, so connect this to the dual outlet with 2.5mm T&E. (or should this be 6mm?) Change the wire fuse in the board to a plug in MCB 32A. (or should this be 40A)