Concrete Panel Saw for cutting sleepers?

When you do it with a circular saw make a ply sleeve you can slide over the end of the sleeper for the saw to run against that way you end up nice square cut as you can roll the sleeper round and cut from all 4 sides. Unless you have a 9" saw though you still have to finish the last little bit with a handsaw.
The other way to do it but takes a little practice is with a chainsaw

 

Are they new sleepers or old actual railway ones.

If new then a normal quick cut hand saw does the job well, or a chainsaw if available.

 

The concrete saw looks like large teeth spacing so not good for wood.

Would go for the circular saw option cutting on both sides then finishing off the last bit with a hand saw. Depends on the max depth of saw.

 

I would use the chainsaw - with caution. Make sure you keep stop the chainsaw hitting any soil, it is surprising how it dulls blades

Should be some interesting smells as you cut through them old engine oil, preservative then a mature timber smell

 

Am in the process of doing this at the moment...and have been for months (injured because of the sleepers). If they are the real deal ie reclaimed then forget the hand saw.

I used a chainsaw for the initial few. You will require at least a 40cm bar if doing any significantly angled cuts. I found the chainsaw not to be a feasible option given that the chain goes from sharp to almost totally blunt after each cut- the sleepers i have are untreated reclaimed azobe...you might have a less dense wood and be ok?

The way I have been doing it is with a large circular saw. I have a Dewalt saw that goes to a depth of 87mm so I can get by with a cut either side. I would mark all round the sleeper with a set square rather than taking measurements from each edge as I have found the ends to not always be totally (or even remotely)square. Then create some form of a jig lined to your marks to ensure the cuts line up on each side and you will be grand.

I would also buy a new blade. My saw was making a real effort going through them even from the start when using the dewalt tct blade. recently bought a Freud blade (http://www.screwfix.com/p/freud-tct-circular-saw-blade-235-x-30mm-34t/6442j?_requestid=155089) and the difference is extremely noticeable. much straighter, neater and faster cuts!

I would also always wear steel capped boots both to prevent accidents but also handy for resting the sleeper on when moving them around but you might be fortunate enough to have help. A large wrecking bar is also useful for getting under the edges to begin the lifting as they are so heavy getting fingers under to get a grip is almost impossible.

They are seriously breaking me piece by piece (well finger by finger)! I have 35 sleepers measuring 0.15 x 0.25 x 2.6m weighing in at over 100Kg each, moving them from the front to back of the house, cutting and then building with them not to mention the hand excavation (mini digger not an option due to access ).

Best of luck- interested to see pictures when you get going!

 

are those oak?
Still I would not underestimate the weight and awkwardness of moving them if you are doing it yourself. The best way I have found to move them is using a trolley lifter- sticking it on it's back with the handle underneath and tied to the sleeper you can then wheel them around when holding the other end.

 

Those don't look like traditional sleepers (or even reclaimed) as they appear too narrow

 

You will likely be needing some of these too
http://www.railwaysleepers.com/rail...eper-fixings/timberlok-railway-sleeper-screws

For hardwood they require a pilot hole. They are tough but will shear without pre-drilling. I would also recommend an impact driver for screwing them in.

 

What do you want to cut a sleeper for
Why not just wake them up

 

Can't better Freud blades for quailty, I make I use.

Frosty: Haven't you got room for a micro digger, they will go through a standard doorway.

Bodgit: Make saw you wear gloves when handling those sleepers.