Cooker & Hob Insullation

Discussion in 'Electricians' Talk' started by Kevee, Feb 20, 2015.

  1. Kevee

    Kevee Member

    Hi,

    I am wondering if anyone can help me, I am currently in the process of replacing my kitchen and am looking to put all the sockets etc. in the right place and then get an electrician in to wire it all up\certify etc. I would like to confirm if my planned set-up is okay, any help or advice appreciated.

    Currently I have a freestanding electric cooker and hob, I am looking to replace this with an electric oven and gas hob. There is a 45Amp cooker switch going to the cooker on its own circuit and a standard socket below the worktop next door on the kitchen ring main. Would I be okay to wire new cooker up to cooker switch again and change socket next door to go through a 13Amp fused isolator above worktop then down to plug for the gas hob ignition.

    Also currently the cooker hood is plugged in to socket in cupboard above. I would like to remove that cupboard change socket to fused isolator again and connect to a new socket in the chimney so plug and cable hidden. Would this be okay?

    Many Thanks for reading and your help\advice.

    Kevin
     
  2. Mr Jenks

    Mr Jenks Member

    If your planning to get an Electrician in anyway then why not call him/her in for a price and ask there advice.

    You do all the donkey work chasing out the socket boxes etc where the sparky suggests and you pay less wonga!

    Simples

    Mr J
     
  3. Kevee

    Kevee Member

    Thanks for your reply Mr Jenks

    I guess I wanted to be able to have an informed discussion with the electrician and wanted a kind of sanity check first, does that make sense?

    Kevin
     
  4. Mr Jenks

    Mr Jenks Member

    No worries
    Any decent electrician shouldn't have any problems with you doing all the donkey work knocking out the chases and socket boxes to where they have marked them up!

    Be careful though as 35 years of doing this kind of work now means two hearing aids for me, damage done in the 1st 10 years of work with no mandatory use of hearing protection.

    just make sure that the boxes and chases will be deep enough for the final finished surface.

    regards
    Mr J
     
  5. Kevee

    Kevee Member

    With a bit of luck I will be able to use the existing chases for oven\hob and it will be a matter of putting in the boxes in the middle of the runs so to speak.

    As for the cooker hood that would be a new chase so will check the depth.

    Thanks,

    Kevin
     
  6. sinewave

    sinewave Screwfix Select

    Nicely played Mr J, nicely played! :D
     
  7. Kevee

    Kevee Member

    Am I right in thinking that this work is non notifiable work and as such does not need to be certified. I saw the criteria as being

    'In England, the rules were simplified in April 2013, so that now regulation 12(6A) of the Building Regulations 2010 identifies notifiable work as comprising the installation of a new or replacement consumer unit, the installation of a complete new circuit connected to the consumer unit, or alteration work in and around a bath or shower.' on the planningportal.gov.uk website.

    Since this is all on existing circuits and in a kitchen could I do this work?
     
  8. seneca

    seneca Screwfix Select

    You are correct, if no new circuits are involved it's not notifiable but it should still be tested and certified.
     
  9. Kevee

    Kevee Member

    Thanks for the reply. So can I check my plans here to minimise the chances of it not passing testing\certification.

    I currently have 1 cooker switch with 13amp socket on its own circuit. I want to run 6mm thick spur from this to a 20amp double pole switch next to said switch. From here I want to run a cable rated for 20amps down under worktop and across to where cooker will go and put a 3A FCU for the ignition of a gas hob. The electric oven has max load of 4.1KW so will wire into cooker switch

    For the cooker hood I want to change where plug socket is currently to the side into an isolation switch which then spurs to a socket which is central to the cooker hood.

    Do these changes sound like they would pass certification?

    Many Thanks,

    Kevin
     

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