Cooker Hood / Chimney Wiring

Discussion in 'Electricians' Talk' started by jaxxxonn, Jan 31, 2008.

  1. jaxxxonn

    jaxxxonn New Member

    Hope somebody can help, i recently bought an ex display cooker hood from B&Q, it came with no instructions, model number is HDC60SS, bog standard hood. Whats the best way to wire this in? my thoughts were to wire it to a FCU spurred to a socket, the hood wiring itself consists of a 2 core flex and then a seperate earth wire screwed to the metal part of the chimney, can i join all 3 wires via a connecting block to some 2.5 T+E cable which will then run down to the FCU? also what rating fuse should i use, i intend buying the screwfix FCU volex chrome FCU which is standard 13amp but should i change the fuse to a lower one?
     
  2. Joelp1

    Joelp1 New Member

    all extractors ive seen are meant to be on a 3A fuse.

    Best way to wire it IMHO is a FCU above and to one side, beside the chimney. Then both the flex and the supply wire can be run in zone. You cant put the FCU inside the chimney as its then inaccessible, and the wires arent really in zone either.
     
  3. jaxxxonn

    jaxxxonn New Member

    i intend to put the FCU next to the double socket (spurred from the double socket) then channel into the plaster and run some 2.5 T+E and connect to the wires inside the hood, like i mentioned in my previous post the wires inside the hood consist of a 2 core flex and a seperate earth wire connected directly to the metal housing, is it ok to connect these wires to the end of the 2.5 T+E cable i am running to it with a connecting block?
     
  4. Industrial Sparks

    Industrial Sparks New Member

    sounds dodgy
     
  5. jaxxxonn

    jaxxxonn New Member

    if thats your opinion then how would you go about it? I want advice on the best way to do it, not just telling me it sounds dodgy! i'm here for advice and help thats what these forums are for after all, anyone else that can advise me?
     
  6. state-it

    state-it New Member

    If the flex needs extending, and you're going to bury the join in plaster, crimp the cables together , self-amalgamating tape/heat-shrink the crimps jpoints and then bury direct in plaster, buried oval conduit or cap it.

    *** don't bury a choc-block connector!
     
  7. state-it

    state-it New Member

    Even better, cable in 2.5mm to a flex outlet plate, and run the hood flex into that!
     
  8. elmoD

    elmoD New Member

    firstly sod the 2.5mm and get some 1.5mm as it can handle 13amps on a 2m? run, plus fcu will have a 3 or 5A fuse in it ;)

    YEs put your fs where you want, then put a box next to the extractor, or somewhere in a cupboard? inside the hood IF it can be accessed after being installed and not affected by heat,and do connections inside of it with a blank plate :)
     
  9. elmoD

    elmoD New Member

    **** forgot to add, the blank plate on the wall should give you your cable zones, go straight up out of the fs to the height of the single ko box at the extract, then you can go horizontally at that height
     
  10. Industrial Sparks

    Industrial Sparks New Member

    I would put the FCU were you wanted it providing its suitable place then from the FCU I would go to a flex outlet plate adjacent to cooker hood.
     
  11. jaxxxonn

    jaxxxonn New Member

    decided to connect the flex and earth inside the hood to a 13amp connector block, short length of buried 2.5 T+E to a FCU 3amp* that i will place just to the right of the hood just above a wall unit so it is not visible from floor level but still easily accessible should i need to. Then the FRCU will be spurred off a double socket.
     
  12. fooman

    fooman New Member

    i would have put a fcu in the chimney part of the cooker hood as the steam ect is going through the flex ducting.
     
  13. weavermj1982

    weavermj1982 New Member

    Hi there,

    I have this exact type of cooker hood that was pre-installed into the house that we have just moved into. Needless to say the install was rather shoddy, with the 2 core flex coupled to chocolate-block in the hood to another length of flex that went to a 3 pin plug with a 13A fuse, plugged in in the bedroom no less!!

    I'm just reworking the situation and I found this post via google, most useful.

    I was wondering if you would be kind enough to describe to me the location of the earth wire attached to the metal housing, as I cannot seem to find it on my installation. It could be hiding but without taking the hood off the wall it will be hard to find.

    If you could shed any light that would be great. I am joining the 2 core flex in a 20A junction box just above the hood under the bedroom floor, then running that to the load side of a FCU at 3A, spured from a double socket on the kitchen mains ring.

    Thanks in advance for any help.
     
  14. fooman

    fooman New Member

    most are class 2 fittings so require no earth ;)
     
  15. betty swollocks

    betty swollocks New Member

    most are class 2 fittings so require no earth ;)


    beat me to it!
     
  16. weavermj1982

    weavermj1982 New Member

    Ah thanks, I had thought this might be the case.
     
  17. itwentbang

    itwentbang New Member

    "If you could shed any light that would be great. I am joining the 2 core flex in a 20A junction box just above the hood under the bedroom floor, then running that to the load side of a FCU at 3A, spured from a double socket on the kitchen mains ring. "

    Joints in inaccessible voids, hhmmm, doesn't sound good.

    Can't you replace cable so there are no intermediate joints between hood and fcu?
     

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