I've practised mitreing some corners with some scrap chipboard laminate worktop with my (cheap) jig and router. Even though I say so myself it worked out pretty well! Next job is on the real thing - solid oak worktop! Are the techniques radically different? Any wrinkles I ought to know? Many thanks for any advice. diymostthings
depends mostly in the edge of the worktop.........If it is a square edge you could just cut, then router it straight along, and butt joint the pieces with biscuits and bolts.........and then router an edge profile on afterwards if required........ If the wood already has some sort of profile its all about making the two pieces mate perfectly...like two giant pandas..! Of course......you could always do a 45 deg mitre all the way through........discuss!
you will need to do around 7 passes as the depth is half the shank per pass 44divided by 6 =7 you can reduce this iff you have a jigsaw that wont wander and cut within 5mm off the cut line then you can do it in 2 passes
hello way to go! when they work ou they look fab, i have always cut mine by hand, very stressfull! but what ever you do DON'T try and do a massive internal mitre, re joat` but you have gone with the jig, so good man/woman!!
thanks for that Joat44 - yes they will probably be square edged so that seems to make it more straightforward. I'm happy routing the underneath for the "pull-up" bolts (incidentally I see there is a type of bolt now which is screwed up vertically from underneath- much easier!). I've not done biscuit joins before though so will "youTube" this and come back here if I have any questions Thanks again diymostthings
OK big all - No I can't trust myself with a jigsaw - havn't got a nice one anyway. It is reciprocating but I can't do a dead straight cut for mating purposes, hence the template and router. Thank you for the formula for number of passes needed - very useful. diymostthings
Thanks jezznot. Yes I will heed the advice - steady does it. I'll take a few Valliums before I start! diymostthings
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