Cranked hinges or concealed hinges?

Discussion in 'Carpenters' Talk' started by Clive Bennett, Aug 11, 2015.

  1. chippie244

    chippie244 Super Member

    Try it DA's way and if it works all is fine, if the doors fall off come back again and I tell you how to do it properly. :)
    I'm away all weekend so wont be on here. Nothing that DA has said will stop you doing it my way later.
     
  2. I think you'll find that Chippie's way is to threaten the hinge with a darn good thrashing it it dares to fail...


    Have a good weekend, Chips :)
     
  3. chippie244

    chippie244 Super Member

    Back now :) Your way may work DA and is the easier and cheaper option but to my clients I have to offer the option that I know will work and I wont have a call back even if it is harder to achieve.
    Bluddy great weekend apart from my Dad not knowing who I was.
     
  4. Clive Bennett

    Clive Bennett New Member

  5. These will be ideal, Clive.

    Chust make sure you measure out the distances pretty accurately. The only drawback I can see is that they don't have any adjustment, so get it spot on.

    Basically, fix them with a single screw first and check door fitting. If the door needs, say, lifting by a gnat's crochet, then mark and drill the next screw's pilot hole at the top of the hole in the hinge, so the next screw will be around 1mm higher.

    That sort of tweaking should get you there...
     
  6. Clive Bennett

    Clive Bennett New Member

    This is excellent news! They look quite small. Will they be able to hold my 500 x 700 doors?

    Thanks again

    C
     
  7. Absolutely no idea. One review says they are a bit 'flimsy'. Others say they are fine for kitchen unit doors, and these doors ain't light.

    I'd tend to fit them higher - and lower - than normal hinges, so the leverage on them is reduced.

    If, when you fit a pair, you decide they ain't quite up to the job, then add a third in t'middle...

    But, the main issue for you with doors that are sat inside a surrounding frame, is getting the positioning spot-on. We are talking to within a mm.

    The method I used for my cupboard doors is to make the cupboard and frame first, build the doors slightly over-sized, position them behind the aperture, mark 'em off, and plane them down to suit... :rolleyes:

    Anyways, Chips'll be back with the solution.
     
  8. chippie244

    chippie244 Super Member

    And I'm back in the room :)
    I have never used these hinges although I have seen them used.
    The usual cabinet door with concealed hinges overlays the door on the frame whereas you want to inset your doors and I don't know without trying whether you can with those or not.
    You may hit the same problem that you would have done with inset concealed hinges in that your frame needs to be 70mm deep to mount the hinge, again I don't know.
    You can either phone tech support and hope they know what you are talking about or buy some and have a play.
     
  9. mr moose

    mr moose Screwfix Select

    I have used those sort of hinges on some cupboards about 15 years ago they are still going strong, doors around 400 x 800mm.
     
  10. chippie244

    chippie244 Super Member

    Was it inset or overlay?
     
  11. mr moose

    mr moose Screwfix Select

    I think they are just overlay, I haven't looked at them for ages as they are in a flat we rent out.
     
  12. chippie244

    chippie244 Super Member

    Overlay is the norm with concealed hinges where as butt hinges are inset.
     

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