Creating a fall / slope on garden patio...

Discussion in 'Landscaping and Outdoors' started by T100, Aug 24, 2015.

  1. T100

    T100 Member

    Morning chaps and chapettes,

    I'm going to lay garden paving myself and I have an area that runs approximately 24ft long from point 'a' to point 'b' and 12.5ft wide.

    The house is situated at point 'a' with a 3ft wide concrete path way between where I'd like to start the paving and the house.

    The paving will not butt up against the house and is well below the damp proof course.

    With these factors in mind, I have a couple of questions...

    1. Is it absolutely necessary that I create a drainage slope on the paved area?

    2. If so, is the fall ratio of 10mm for every metre correct?

    3. If so, that will mean I have a total fall of approximately 70mm from highest point to lowest point, meaning that at the low end there will be significantly less base layer and mortar underneath the pavers because the soil below should be flat and level.

    Is this cause for concern? And if so, what do I do in this situation?

    Hiring a professional isn't an option! :)

    Appreciate any help you pro's can give...

    T100
     
  2. Phil the Paver

    Phil the Paver Screwfix Select

    Why should the soil underneath be level???? It should be dug out to suit the finished levels, so you have an even over all depth of materials.

    The fall required is determined by the type if paving, smooth surface finish requires a lot less fall than say a imitation York stone finish.

    1 in 10 is very shallow for any paving, 1 in 6/7 is more like it for a smooth paving.
     
  3. T100

    T100 Member

    Hi Phil,

    Thanks for the reply.

    I don't know why the soil underneath should be level, I'm just going by what I've seen on youtube videos! Treat me as an idiot novice who stupidly wants to give this a go myself! :)

    Anyway, how do I ensure that the dug out slope is a steady, even slope?

    With regards to the type of paving... This (click here) is what I'm going for, what's your recommended fall ratio?

    Thanks again.
     
  4. Phil the Paver

    Phil the Paver Screwfix Select

    That's a relativity cheap slab that's very expensive on that site, I would be looking more around the £14.00/15.00 M2 for it.

    You can buy real Indian sand stone for less than that, though its not so easy to lay due to various different thicknesses of the slabs.

    I would lay that slab with a fall of 50mm in every 3 metres.

    As for getting you dig out to the right levels, take the top surface off all over so you are below the finished level, then knock pegs into the ground to your required finish level, then when you dig out you can measure down from the pegs to the depth you want, if this is a patio you want 100mm of Type 1 hardcore well compacted, then a 30mm bed of mortar plus the slab thickness, 35mm I think they are.

    So 165mm in total, make sure your pegs are long enough for the dig out.:)
     
  5. Phil the Paver

    Phil the Paver Screwfix Select

    Like your profile name by the way, I'm thinking it a Triumph bike. :)
     
  6. T100

    T100 Member

    Hi Phil,

    Thanks again for replying. Firstly, profile name... I have no idea why I chose it and I have no idea what a Triumph bike is! Sorry to disappoint!

    Anyway, on with the paving... Can you recommend a trustworthy retailer where I could buy those paving slabs at the cost you mentioned?

    With regards to digging at the right levels... Thanks, I think I understand. I'll look to see if there's any videos around!
     
  7. Phil the Paver

    Phil the Paver Screwfix Select

    A Triumph T 100


    [​IMG]
     
  8. Phil the Paver

    Phil the Paver Screwfix Select

    Not knowing where you are its hard to recommend a particularsupplier, but try builders merchants like Jewsons, Selco, Travis Perkins, or even a local supplier.
     
  9. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    Some builder merchants like Jewsons offer a cash trade account for anyone who is undertaking a home improvement project, so prices are abit cheaper.
    Also try family run/ independant builder merchants in your area, some put the bigger merchants to shame for customer service & prices.
    Quite few merchants have summer offers on paving, which end around September.
     
  10. Mr. Handyandy

    Mr. Handyandy Screwfix Select

    Is it possible for you to have the slope run both ways from the centre? You have the centre column level, then run off each side 30mm to edge. Another way is to have the run straight out the 12.5ft and a drain channel to finish.

    And a tight piece of string is dead straight!

    Mr. HandyAndy - Really
     
  11. T100

    T100 Member

    Thanks everyone for chipping in. You've given me some things to think about.

    Finally, do you think I should have a slope seeing as it's not against the house? Could I get away with not having a slope and having it completely flat/level? All of the tutorials I've watched on youtube don't ever go in to details of creating a slope...
     
  12. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    Usually there is a fall on a patio to stop rainwater pooling.
     
  13. T100

    T100 Member

    Thanks Kiab,

    Will the pooling cause damage?
     
  14. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    Maybe frost damage to mortar joints,sometime slabs depending on quaility.

    Phil will be around later to add his views.
     
  15. Phil the Paver

    Phil the Paver Screwfix Select

    The 50mm in 3 metres I suggested will to the eye look flat, but will save pooling, pooling becomes a minor problem in the winter, if the water freezes.

    1. Its slippy so dangerous

    2. Could cause damage to the slabs.
     
  16. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    Didn't expect you that quick...:eek::eek::p:p

    Great minds think alike.:)

    And if your having borders, then plants can hide any slope.
     
  17. T100

    T100 Member

    Thanks Chaps.

    I guess I'm just a little bit nervous about digging the slope. I think I understand Phil's instruction (using pegs) but I'm concerned it won't be a nice flat steady slop but instead be bumpy in places therefore effecting the paving...
     
  18. Phil the Paver

    Phil the Paver Screwfix Select

    You don't have to get the dig out perfect, I doubt many professionals do, but if you've half half an eye for things you will see it as you go.


    Be brave and get on with it. :D:D
     
  19. T100

    T100 Member

    I will! Thanks for the kick up the back side!

    I have another question. I've changed my mind with regards to paving slabs. I'm going for these:

    http://simplypaving.com/bradstone-textured-paving-grey-600-x-600-20-per-pack.html

    The picture shows the flags "butt joined" but everything I've read suggests they should be pointed with a 10mm gap.

    I'll be laying on a full mortar bed if that makes a difference to the eventual answer...

    Thoughts?

    Thanks, mate.
     
  20. Phil the Paver

    Phil the Paver Screwfix Select

    That's a much better slab than your fist choice, you can lay them either way, butt jointed is less work obviously, but you will get the odd weed in the joints due the seeds that blow in the wind settling on the paving and growing in the slit that will eventually be in the joints.

    Laying a full bed is harder than it sounds due to you having to get it perfect.

    I always lay the mortar around the perimeter of the slab and then a blob in the middle, this allows somewhere for it to spread as you tap the slab down, also if your doing a 10mm joint the mortar comes up into the joint as you tap the slab down, leaving you less to do when you joint it.

    Lay the slabs on a sharp sand and cement mix of 4.1 with plasticiser.
     
    seen it all before likes this.

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