Cutting down a hollow panelled door

Yes. Surely.

Just cut it to the required size and shape, possibly after scoring with a craft knife on both sides first to prevent any fray on the cut edges, and then see what you are left with.

I doubt it'll need any further padding inside as it'll already have something in there, but if it needs padding out, take care using foam in case it expands too much. See what is already in there, and replicate it as much as possible.

Then just remove the edge trims from the removed section and refit. As you say, a bit of filler and a sand-down, and jobbie jobbed.

Are the edge trims internal or overlapping?

 

Will you have enough at the head to cut the angle across the full thickness part of door above the panels?

Mr. HandyAndy - Really

 

Internal beading - even easier .

The door won't be any different in construction afterwards to what it is now.

And I suspect it'll be as you say inside - that latticework of card strips to keep the two faces apart.

Peasy.

Enjoy.

But don't come crying on here if...

 

Hinge off the long edge.

 

Do you have any sort of G-cramps or similar? (Damn I'm good - I said cramp instead of clamp... )

If so, set them over the narrower parts, and tweak them until they are just touching the two sides at the spacing they should be at - the spacing you want them to end up at...

Inject foam, and the clamps should hopefully prevent the sides from being pushed outski.

 

Yeeeeea ha !!!

Sounds a bit of me that , indeed done something similar with our cupboard door under the stairs

 

Nice.

But a couple of points; 1- you didn't route a horizontal stile along the top, and 2- your house has fallen over.

 

perhaps the internet has fallen over and we are all still the correct way up

 

Internet will never fall over. Built on the solidest of foundations now. Hardcore bongo and Mumsnet. Immovable now.

 

You could use a plain flush door and just add some beading to make it look panelled effect. Make up some rectangles and a triangle where the corner is cut off if its a full size door. If its just a small understair door then they are easy to make. Use some 6mm ply and add an 18mm MDF frame around it.












Still work in progress at the moment. Need to get some beading on the inside edges + painting

 

The larger door was a lot more work. I used block board and pine to make it look panelled effect. But its not double sided like an entrance door. (Flush on the back).

Again still work in progress. Need to add some beading + paint.

 

Blimey, that's a lot of work Nixy.

But, really, you peeps need to get yourself a cheapo router. With a 'V' cutter.

First photos are of nasty doors that were fitted to the airing cupboard when we moved in - they are plywood with a smooth hardboard skin. (And were painted gloss...)

Couldn't be bovvered replacing them, so attacked them with a router instead.

I then routed the walls... (Ok, they are hardboard sheets cut to dado height and then routed.)

And if you want fancier doors to any shape or size, use a backing layer of MDF (12mm in this case) which its front V-routed, and then over-lay MDF stiles.

Routers are grrrreeatt.

 

Devils ...nice work (like)
I see what you mean by routing the walls too....literally ( ha ha ).

Good tip on the router with V-cutter. Hopefully get a chance to try that idea some time.

 

We had to replace some panelled doors in an old renovation we were doing.....two of the bedrooms had 3 steps leading up to the doorways from the upstairs hall, and some idiot had just hacked 6" off the top and bottom of similar cheapo pressed panelled doors. They look dreadful. We decided to replace them with bespoke oak doors which we made from kiln dried boards. Trouble is they looked so good the customer decided to replace all the doors in the house and we ended up making 11 doors and a loft hatch ! And we too used a V router bit.......