Cutting down a P shape Bath panel

Discussion in 'Plumbers' Talk' started by tonyservices, Apr 20, 2015.

  1. tonyservices

    tonyservices New Member

    Hi all,

    I have redone the bathroom, and went through a pipe at the last straight.

    Boo hoo!!!

    Now the repairs have been done, it turns out the floor needed screeding after being hacked up.

    This now makes the panel too high to fit by about 8-10 mm one end. Plus an oversight on the tiling has left it too long by about 12 mm, so the panel needs trimming.

    It looks about 4 mm thick and is an acrylic/fibre mix. Obviously I never want to do something like this, but there is no other alternative.
    I was going to use a fine blade in a jigsaw on a low speed, but was told not to. I was advised to use a sharp stanley blade (you ARE having a laugh!)
    It has been suggested that I use a fine blade in an angle grinder?

    I just don't know, does anyone here have anything please?

    Ta much
     
  2. darren jackson

    darren jackson Active Member

    your safest bet is hand cut it, with a hand saw suitable for cutting laminate flooring,
    sharp and fine tooth,
    support it well with the help of a mate,
    not your missus,
    just incase you bugger it up,
    atleast your mate wont grass you up,
    otherwise jigsaw with a fine downwood cutting blade
     
  3. Phil the Paver

    Phil the Paver Screwfix Select

    Is the cut line going to have a mastic trim between it and the wall, if so steady eddie with the jigsaw, mastic allowing for slight deviations in the cut or as said above, a good sharp handsaw and a steady hand.
     
  4. retiredsparks

    retiredsparks Super Member

    As you are loosing the L shaped bottom, maybe ? I would be inclined to reinforce the back bottom section (30mm to 150 mm depending upon the reinforcer) with something like timber...expanding foam...fiber glass... glued polystyrene etc. to stop it being 'wibbly wobbly' in situ. and easier to cut.
     
  5. tonyservices

    tonyservices New Member

    Yes, I am losing some of the l shape bottom support, and will be putting in extra support to stop it wobbling.

    Ok all, thanks for the replies, here goes nothing or at least another £100 panel!!!
     
  6. retiredsparks

    retiredsparks Super Member

    reinforce BEFORE cutting will reduce the chances of loosing the panel !
    RS
     
  7. Mr. Handyandy

    Mr. Handyandy Screwfix Select

    Any reason why you can't take it off the top (assume it goes under a bath lip) ?

    Mr. HandyAndy - Really
     
  8. Ghost-1

    Ghost-1 Active Member

    Clamp wood to it along the cut line.......stop it flexing all over the place.
     
  9. Mr. Handyandy

    Mr. Handyandy Screwfix Select

    Think you're all forgetting it's P shaped. Very difficult to support.

    Better to use a fine point older(blunter) handsaw, to reduce the risk of snagging.

    Mr. HandyAndy - Really
     
  10. Mr Rusty

    Mr Rusty Screwfix Select

    Take it easy and aim to trim the bottom edge and side you can seal to hide the cut. Personally I would cut with a jigsaw with a very fine blade (like a metal/hacksaw tooth), and reinforce afterwards using timber glued to inside. It's only a bath panel so only decorative. Depending on the style of your bathroom, lots of options to custom make a panel to fit if it doesn't work out. If the bottom is against a hard floor and you are concerned about a rough edge looking bad, maybe think about trimming all the "L" off then using a plastic or aluminium cap-profile slid over the bottom edge to adjust/fill the edge gap. google "j channel" One of those little challenges that DIY throws up :)
     
  11. retiredsparks

    retiredsparks Super Member

    If he cuts before reinforcing..he may split the panel...hence my advice.
    RS
     
  12. RoyB

    RoyB New Member

    I know this is an old thread but as I have the same problem I thought it might be useful if I said why I have this problem.

    We refitted our very small bathroom with a P-shaped bath across the two walls. The bathroom was then tiled with tiles extending under the bath ends. This reduced the width by the width of two tiles and adhesive, about 18 mm. Cutting back the tiles might be an option but the profile of the panel is curved to this would not look very neat. Cutting the panel as outlined above is what we shall do.
     
  13. RoyB

    RoyB New Member

    Update on the trim.

    The width across the top and the bottom of the bath was 10 mm different as the walls were not plumb. The vertical distance at one end and the other was also less. I marked the necessary trim and my joiner used a hand held rotary disc cutter with a steel blade. He made the cut from the show side through duct tape that I had put on. The show side cut was fine.

    Now came the fitting.

    Clips were provided to fasten under the bath and on the floor. Tip - fit the upper clips before you fit the bath :). The lower clips needed 8 holes in the tiles. I bought two 6mm diamond cutters. One managed 5 holes and the next only 2.5.

    Offering the panel up the top cut edge was too tight and the lower a bit too much cut. At the P-end the panel was very tight in the vertical but using a piece of timber it was possible to engage the upper clips and then the lower ones. The straight end was easy to fit. I then built up the gap with mastic and then sealed the whole.
     

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