cutting skirting for laminate floor

yep! works a treat, on three of the sides, but the fourth, you will still need to remove, unless you actually work out the flooring so that it terminates at the door way!!!!, the blades are obtainable from most decent tool suppliers, but PLEASE be damned carefull with them....
the reason that you still need to remove one skirting from the last wall (unless as above)is due to the fact that you can not insert the last row, and "BEND" it to slip under the last skirting
regards matt

 

Could you use a buscuit jointer for this job???

 

A mate of mine has done exactly that, used a cheap FERM biscuit jointer from screwfix and cut a nice gap at the bottom of his victorian skirtings. Worked a treat. And with a bit of care looked sooo much better than quadrant moulding around the edge.


There is a proper bespoke powertool for the professional but for 1 house the £30 was money well spent.

 

There is a proper bespoke powertool for the
professional but for 1 house the £30 was money well
spent.

Where are these proper bespoke powertools found please

 

http://www.axminster.co.uk/default.asp?part=1811240

you can get a lot of cheap biscuit jointers for this price.

Looks like quality though.

 

been using a bicky jointer 4 these jobs 4 years! got an old kicking plate which i put on floorboards and machune of that , and works a treat

 

Thanks guys

Good idea with the kicking plate.

Coggy

 

One more thing

When you cut round with the biccy jointer, if there is a bit of a gap after you have slid the boards under do you pack the boards up a bit or could you run round it with some painters mate or somthing similar?

 

eer no , use the kick plate as a long guide, but with the thin underlay it works a treat! thicker undelay just add fix some venners/hardboard to biccy jointer,and sorry wolf but i never take the last skirt off, as i cut it 1m/m oversize and just push it in(ooh)and no probs so far

 

well lets hope it was not real wood laminate,on a ply base, as this does have a tendancey to shrink by about 2-3mm over the first couple of years!!!!

 

If the skirting is cut to the height of the laminate, I assume that expansion gap spacers cannot be used (as they cannot be removed with the laminate in place). Does this affect the way in which the laminate is installed?

If T&G flooring was used instead of a click lock system, how could the boards be pulled together using a ratchet strap device? Is this possible or would the skirtings have to be removed?

 

no wolf , this is just the ***** type , cheap and nasty (but client wants it, as cheap, cheap)but do like wicks suff, 4m/m hardwood on s/w base!

 

GOOD question from Diyrus. I looked at this thread and thought I must have missed a trick using an angle grinder blade or biscuit jointer to cut skirtings - which admittedly sounds fine for cheapo click junk.

The solid wood veneer laminates require wedges so that the joints can be tapped home and ratchet straps to keep it spot on until the glue sets. Clearly not possible if tucked under the skirting whilst being fitted.

Does anyone have a useful short cut that saves removing all of the skirtings with T&G wood floors?

 

one thig i dois 2 run flooring under skirt, about 10m/m then screw fix 2 underfloor at intersection of floor and skirt, so can b removed on compleation(we all know the probs of this stuff moving/joints opening, so this option gives us a very stable line 2 work off.